Just talked to a painter about what the cost will be to paint my chassis!!! He is saying it will be $400 to $600 to paint it black.Have the materials gotten that expensive? What do you have for suggestions on paint? I was told John Deer had a reasonably priced black paint.I dont want a flat paint,want this one to have a shine on it.Any one used it? Any got ideas on holding the cost down on the paint.Thanks!!
sounds ok to me for a quick job in 2k, no where near show quality and not a lot of care , the care bit you can do anyway. If you want show quality could cost $$$$$$, if you do all the cleaning ,filling and sanding youll get a better job for the same price.
I spent just over $300 on materials to have my chassis painted last year. By materials I'm just talkin primer & paint. I only got a quart I think.
just got a quart of Eastwoods ceramic chassis black , suposed to be real good and it was $75.00 with a small bottle of activator so YA- quality costs, but I only want to paint this once!
Hey, Does this price include sand blasting, prep of the metal prior to a full 2-3 coats of a preminum epoxy or urethane (better choice of material) primer & followed by a finish in your choice of colour/gloss? The costs of the primer alone will exceed 1/2 of the above quoted figures! To blast and prep the frame will raise the figure again. What do you want it to look like, and how long do you want it to last? For a quick & dirty, a qt. of Rustolum and a foam roller will work o.k. A mid grade Acrylic Enamel will hold up better than the cheap enamels & not hurt your wallet to badly. Done properly, there's alot of time involved in doing a frame. " Do not be to quick to drink the Kool-Aid "
go on you tube or ebay and check out kbs rust seal,i bought a qt.to do my chassis and it cost 49 bucks a qt.shipped.i had my chassis and related parts blasted for a hundred bucks,put on the rust seal gloss black and it really looks good and a qt.was more than enough for two coats.just pay attn. to the directions and dont put it on to thick.it flows out after applied and its tough as nails when dry.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564540 This is what I posted about the paint on my frame.
why i do my own work. if you can't paint a frame, what can you do? be prepared for big bucks everywhere.
rustoleum has great look and durable. has factory gloss. of course show job will cost $$$$$. be prepared for sticker shock on your body if you want it nice . my 2 cents
If you intend to drive the shit out of it Powdercoat it. You can beat on it with a hammer and it won't flake off if done properly.
What's Earl schieb want to do it? Baked enamel. Lots of work to do a chassis. Lots of nooks and crannies that need attention or things start getting ugly after a while. Rustolem is great on chassis, very forgiving on missed or latent rust. Takes slink time to dry and stays kind of pliable . Great for rocks. You can add harder to it and it dries fast - you can sand and rub It the next day if you want. Tractor supply has "tractor and implement " paint. I painted a steel cargo trailer with it. Came out very nice. Much nicer than I was expecting. If you did every bit of prep to it, What would you expect to pay for the painter to set it up, metal prep all the nooks and crannies, wipe it down, fill prime and sand any exposed areas, epoxy prime and then paint it? Single stage or BC/CC? OEM manufacturers don't paint them , most dip them in that forever soft really sticky waxy crap and give you a 5year rust hole bigger than a quarter warranty.
I've got 2 cents, so I'll pitch it in. I recently finished the frame for my 32 Ford----It's a new frame and in great shape. I did put in a lot of DA time getting out fabricating grinder marks and generally smoothing out the sides of the rails that show. The cost of all that was sand paper and time. So I then spent $550 and had it powder coated in shiny black. I've painted a couple of frames before this and they came out very nice-----but they were all a big pain to paint. Really needed a rotisserie to get at all the tight inside corners and the paint (single stage) still fights you blowing into blind spots. The nature of the powder coat "flowing/melting" when its heated really comes through in tight places. First time I've ever had a frame powder coated and for the cost and appearance I sure do recommend it. BILL RINALDI
What kind of paint are you talking about? Brushing on some POR-15 or mirror finished in body color? When Billy (Slowandlow63) painted Tindalls deuce rails, we spent HOURS blocking out the sides of the rails so the exposed chassis would be as smooth and straight as the rest of the car. Not to mention it got shot in the same PPG that the rest of the car was, not some generic "chassis paint". Paint work is tedious and laborious, good work is not cheap
Had the local Maaco paint my 20' trailer, they did a great job and it only cost me $200.oo including the prep work and masking! They matched the metallic red on my new Chevy pick-up for the trailer. Check the Maaco in your area.
I don't think that's expensive. Once you add materials, overhead, and labor there doesn't seem to be any profit in there. Around here that's not even enough to pay for 10 hours labor... Keep track of all your materials and time and you'll see that the price wasn't out of line. Even for a driver paint job.
Have you checked prices on powder coating...just had a quality job done on an A frame for $250. I couldn't buy the paint and mess up my shop for that kind of $$$...can spend the time it would have taken completeing something else on the project.
"Lots of work to do a chassis. Lots of nooks and crannies that need attention or things start getting ugly after a while." Exactly, do it yourself and you'll see that paint is 90% prep. The spray part is easy. A chassis is way harder to prep (properly) than a body because of all the places where grease and dirt can hide. 10 hours for prep is not unreasonable at all imo.
I have done a number of frames over the past 15 or so years and have had very good results with just good ol TREMCLAD. They do have a Semi-Flat Black (Satin) that looks real good. What I like about Tremclad is A) it is relatively soft after it cures so it resists chips quite nicely B) It goes on and flows out nicely even if applied by brush (if you brush it be sure to use a very good fine brush as this will allow it to flow out the best) c) It is very reasonbly priced and easily touched up later if the need arises. If the frame has been sandblasted be sure to use TREMCLAD PRIMER as your first coat. Jeff.
x2 powdercoat, I just had a "A" frame done for 300 out the door, that included a full sand blasting to get it clean.
Dont know who you know to get it blasted andcoated for 300.00.... Around here they get 400.00 and you blast it.. I painted mine with $100.00 kirker paint. Its sweet for a gennie frame, but like everyone said prep. prep. prep.. and paint
i do my own chassis work..costs me under $100 nz.. i bought a 4l tin of high gloss black 2k,with hardener and reducers and primer at trade price...didnt use bugger all paint... a few 600ml pots.. i went over the whole chassis with a DA sander where i could, and gnarly bits i hit flat witha flapper wheel on a grinder.. came up real good...pitty you never saw it..haha good luck...
Man I'd send out every chassis I'll ever get to a shop that paints em for 400-600 bucks. The prep, the flipping it every which way to get all the spots, the huge mess, I'm out.
Painting a chassis is a lot bigger job than it looks-Good urethane paint(you said you wanted it to stay shiny right?) don't come cheap either.
I had my '39 frame powder coated. They baked the grease off, sand blasted it, primed it and coated it black (yes baked it twice) all for $175. They used silicone plugs on all holes with threads to prevent messing up the threads. These folks are great. This was at DK Industries in Marshall, Texas.
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