Technical frame painting Epoxy ?

For those of you painting your frames and suspension. Can you give a how too? Does this sound correct?
I am getting my frame blasted. Shooting with SPI epoxy 2 - 3 coats Wait 24 hrs. do some filler work, have it all done in the 7 day window. Then I assume I have to sand the whole frame with 180. shoot 1 coat of epoxy then paint with single stage Nason 3 coats with the last added clear.

On the rear end and suspension components . Can I just SPI epoxy, wait 24 hours, tack cloth, then shoot paint?
Thanks for the help

 

You have it right on your rear end (clean w/wax & grease remover- SPI makes a waterborne Wax & Grease remover that is great), 2 coats of Epoxy, Paint-

I am anal, so the only thing I would change on your Frame is that I would give it another coat of Epoxy after the Filler-Yes, I would scuff the Frame w/180 to give it some tooth-and, clean that Frame well with W & G Remover after blasting and before Epoxy-you're gonna love it after it's done-

 

If I do another coat of epoxy after filler, can I scuff with scotch brite ,wipe and paint? Or do I have to epoxy a coat as a sealer then paint? Sorry I did buy there water grease remover.

 

If you put another coat of Epoxy on (after Filler), you can Paint it without scuffing (if within the 24 Hour window)-SPI usually sends a P-Sheet that outlines this-I was never comfortable with that, I like a mechanical bond as well, but, it is acceptable-

 

Thanks I'll give it a try. With all the hard to sand spots I'll try the 1 coat of epoxy. Do you reduce your final coat of spi epoxy on the frames? Just wondering if it laid flat at 1:1

 

I always use 2 wet coats of Epoxy (except on the final coat)-yes, you can use Reducer (up to 10% I believe), and it will lay down nice (while sealing)-

I like it 1:1, but, I would only do that if I were going to scuff/sand w/180 (to clean up any runs/imperfections)-if you use Reducer, you can either paint it directly, scuff with Scotchbrite or scuff w/180-your choice-

 

I time the blast, prime, paint process so that the part goes directly and immediately into the booth after blasting without any contamination. I clean it only with clean, dry compressed air. Wax and Grease remover is meant to be WIPED dry, not left to evaporate, and I feel that it can't be WIPED completely off of a blasted surface. Prime ASAP after cleaning.
I suggest power washing the frame before blasting to remove contaminating material that could be blown under high blasting pressure onto previously blasted areas resulting in very hard to detect contamination.
35WINDOW pretty much nailed it.

 

Thanks the epoxy is new to me. I've done etching/build/ sealer. collision work before. wasn't too sure about my frame.
I am starting to see why there are so many rat rods $$$$$$$$$$ and LABOR

 

I should be ok on the contamination. It is a new frame with minimal surface rust. That is why I was asking the questions today, I have a sandblaster a mile from my house. Plan is to have him blast it next week in an evening bring it straight home and epoxy it, just want to have my time line figured out. I will take your advice on the rear end and degrease the 3rd member, before I take it there. Thanks again

 

Absolutely! But, I guarantee if you do it right you will LOVE the finished product! Truth is, a lot of guys simply Epoxy (and don't Paint) their Frames (I painted mine), and it still looks great-SPI Epoxy has UV inhibitors, so, it won't chalk up in the Sun-it's great stuff-

If you haven't done the Body yet, it is easy to sand, and builds pretty well (I don't use a Guide Coat)- a lot of guys use a 2k, but I only used Epoxy-as the Body Shop Manager where I work says, "Epoxy dries as hard as a Hockey Puck"-

 

You are very welcome, and it sounds like you have a good plan-the stuff is very forgiving, so you should feel like a Pro when it's done-

 

I am just doing enough of it to appreciate the Pro's!!! But for some dumb reason I want to do it all from start to finish. Not really looking forward to sewing up the interior

 

I am not talented enough to do my own Interior, so I admire someone willing to be a Donor! Good Luck, sounds like you're doing it right-

 

Didn't turn out too bad,but its a channeled high boy. I didn't think I needed to block out the rails and you can see the tube seam. I am going to try to fix the front outside of the rails. Took a little bit of the wind out of my sail.