Yes, I did a search, but didn't find much usefull, except for this recent post http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496527 What are some do's and don'ts when building a frame table? Experience with tables that work great or ones that don't? What to keep in mind when building one? I've got a very nice heavy truck frame, 34" wide and 140" long made from 3"x8"x1/4" channel with 4 crossmembers. I think adding some wheels and leveling legs will make it a very useable frame table.. maybe with some extra ribs to be able to handle a wider frame.
Try this.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404840&highlight=frame+tables&showall=1
What you are thinking of doing sounds exactly what I was thinking of. About the only thing I can suggest is build in a system for leveling it when you get it moved where you want to work on it. I was thinking of some sort of leveling screw (bolt) on each corner to level it an steady it. I think that the main thing is having a solid and level setup tohold the frame you are working on firmly in place while you are working on it.
I recently built this frame table. So far it is working out great . I built the table out of 2"x4" 3/16" wall tubing. I put the center braces horizontal and the ends vertical. This way I can clamp whatever I need without having to have super huge clamps. I put locking casters on the bottom welded to 1-1/2" nuts with the studs welded to the buttom of the legs which gives me about an inch and a quater adjustment on each leg to level the table out. If I had it to do again I think I would have bolted the table top together so that the table could be broken down if I needed to. I was also thinking it would have been cool to make it so when the top was removed it could be used as a rotisserie.
Are you going into the frame building business or are you just building a one time frame. I had a buddy that built a beautiful frame using the rear frame rails of 48 F500? that he bought for the engine. 4 legs welded on and scrap pieces tacked on to hold the rails where he wanted them. It doesn't have to be fancy to be effective. It was cut up for scrap after he died. this is the frame. I built an adjustable one 40 years ago using 8" I beams (I had the beam.) I made "unistrut" cross members so that fixtures could be changed and adjusted for different frames. I ended up cutting it up for scrap. It took up too much room for me in my 3 car garage. If you decide to build a fancy one make sure you have a place to keep it when it's not in use.....most of the time.
If a guy does much fabricating/tinkering then I would think that a 'frame' table would quickly turn into a general fabrication/layout table or a engine/trans disassembly table. But you gotta have the floor space available. .
A frame table that can be dis-assembled has it's advantages. Doesn't need to be super beefy if you're working on 1920-1940 Fords and similar AND not using it daily. With the exception of the 120" long side members, my table pulls completely apart for storage when not in use. I have used it on a really small modified to mid-30's frames. Get's the job done for the home builder. The one thing is: take your time buiding it. Make sure everything is level, parallel etc.. Check it often as the heat from welding moves steel around a lot more than one would think. Once done it will serve you well for many years and many projects.
built mine on a 6 x 8 surface table up side down using oil field pipe. Weld my frame rails to it and do the entire build. Just this morning unloaded a shop truck chassis off it, rolled it under my lift, chanied the frame to the lift raised it off the jig, rolled the jig out and set it on the ground for the first time. starting a t bucket frame next
Not planning on going into the frame building business. But I am planning to get back into the car building business so I'll do some frame work here or there. For now I need a frame table to modify at least 1 and build at least 2 frames from scratch for some of my own projects (yes, I've got too many) that are in the pipeline. The thing is, I've got the majority of the material and I've got the space to store it. I was thinking of even putting a "solid" plate on top with mounting holes here and there to use the frame table as a general fabrication table. That way it will do double duty and always be useful.
Do make it heavy, so it stays level once adjusted. Don't weld every single joint and brace it all to hell. It needs to have some flex so that you can level it when it's moved. Even make it modular so you can take it apart. Do design in adjusters at every leg to make adjustments easy. Removeable decking is nice, but you could go without. Permanent decking will make your back hurt when you need under the chassis. Do choose a height that puts the work where you need it. Too low and you will hurt your back even more. To high and you won't be able to reach anything.
Here is a picture that is about 40 years old, but notice that all the welding stuff, cords, is overhead on a swing arm. That keeps the floor clear so you aren't tripping over cables. I miss my old buddy, Archie.
if we ever move to a bigger shop im going to build something very similiar to this but as he said make t where it doubles and triples as a rotisserie and a layout table/work bench
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