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Technical FRAME, Tech..how to make framerails

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clark, Mar 9, 2005.

  1. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    I made a set of rails for a Model A the other day and took pics as I went. I used a plazma cutter to do my cuts, but the same thing could be done with a cut off wheel on an angle grinder. Of coarse the cut off wheels will take a lot longer and you will go through a lot of them.

    With a plaz you can use a guide or pattern to make your cuts. My plaz needs about a 1/4" from the guide to the cut. My measurements include that 1/4". My pattern was also cut a 1/4" small so I can run the plaz around it and end up with what I want.

    I started off with two lengths of 2"x4" tubing. It is 1/8" thick.

    I marked the tubing for the taper. The taper will start 40" from the front of the frame. The horns start about 10" from the front.

    I set my guide 3/8 from the edge and cut the bottom starting at the 40" mark.(first pic) Then cut the other side the same way. You can see how the plaz cut the bottom real close to the sidewall. (second pic)

    I then flipped the tubing on it's side and set my guide up. (third pic) It is set at 3/8" from the bottom of the rail at the 40" mark and 2 1/8" from the top of the rail at the 10" mark. Be careful when cutting not to cut past the 10" mark for the horns.

    After cutting the taper I clamped my pattern for the horns on and cut just the bottom. (fourth pic) I waited til after I got the bottom welded to cut the top. After cutting the the horn the scrap came out leaving the band for the bottom and the new shape for your rails. (fifth pic) The plaz leaves a nice clean edge and needs no grinding. Remember to get the slag off of the inside so it doesn't contaminate your welds.
     
    Frbobreed likes this.
  2. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    Now you're ready to start welding. At first you just want to tack it together about every 6". I used a "C" clamp vise grip to pull it into place.(first pic) Tou don't want to push the bottom back into the rail. You want to bring it down till it just meets the sides. This gives you a good place to weld and keeps the grinding to a minimum.

    Once you have it tacked in place now you can go back and start filling in the weld. Go slow! Weld 2" at a time about foot apart. (second pic) Make sure the rail is supported on a flat surface.

    After the bottom is welded I cut the top of the frame from my 10" mark forward just like I did the bottom. I then clamped my horn pattern back on and cut the top half. (third pic)

    Now you can weld the top just like the bottom. With the curve you may have to make your tack welds closer (fourth pic) I left the ends open cause I will weld a speader bar in when I start to build the frame.

    All that is left is to grind the rails and you're redy to start building a frame. The last pic is of the finished rail.

    As a side note. If you don't want the welded seam of the tubing showing on the outside of a rail make sure you cut the second rail opposite of the first.
    Clark
     
    Frbobreed likes this.
  3. 61Lancerwagon
    Joined: Feb 18, 2005
    Posts: 112

    61Lancerwagon
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great post Clark, I hope to one day benefit from it. Thanks!

    Randy
     
  4. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,386

    Dan
    Member

    Clark - very cool, nice post. For some reason the chassis fab. portion of this hobby really appeals to me. Thanks for sharing.
     
  5. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,662

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member

    Very good post! There are always guys looking on how to build an A frame....this should help.
     
  6. Plowboy
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 4,281

    Plowboy
    Member

    Very cool! I did this about a month ago on the lunar lander but I didn't take pics.

    Nice point on the seam though, I forgot and made mine with the seam to the outside, oops.
     
  7. what are/did you do about the cap on the end of the horn??
     
  8. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    joeycarpunk
    Member
    from MN,USA

    Nice tech post, well explained. Thanks.
     
  9. What does a pair of 2"x4" sticks sell for? I'll need to build a frame for my next project later this summer.

    Someone please put this in the Tech-o-matic.

    JH
     
  10. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    Harrison...20 feet cost us $125

    Alteredpilot...I left the end alone cause when I put the spreader bar in I will make it go to the outside wall of the rail. If you don't want a spreader bar you could cut a piece of tubing in half and use it for caps.

    Should I take pics when I make the frame?
    Clark
     
  11. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,552

    manyolcars

    For more info, go to the-antidote.com
     
  12. Brooding Swede
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 406

    Brooding Swede
    Member

  13. sawzall
    Joined: Jul 15, 2002
    Posts: 4,757

    sawzall
    Member

    WOW!!
     
  14. CadillacKid
    Joined: Oct 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,507

    CadillacKid
    Member

    Great post Clark...I did mine very similar on The Kid...but we ran with 1/4 inch wall, and used the frame horns and off of my original frame...used the original crossmembers too....don't cry too much about me cuttin' up an original frame...rails were pitted pretty bad and starting to swiss cheese....wow..$125 for 20 feet...man! The price of steel has gone through the roof! I remember when I got mine...2- 10 foot sticks of 2"x4" 1/4 inch wall square tubing...$65! And that was only 2 years ago! Amazing how things change...
     
  15. TomH
    Joined: Oct 21, 2003
    Posts: 1,253

    TomH
    Member


    Yes, that would be great!!
     
  16. 1LOWCHIEF
    Joined: Dec 2, 2003
    Posts: 432

    1LOWCHIEF
    Member

    Yes please.
     
  17. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    I am saving this along with 60 Style's tech posts.

    If you and Paul ever get together, one slick car would be built.

    And, That's all I got to say 'bout that.
     
  18. Great post...

    On your side note. As someone who builds alot of things like gates and handrails, I notice other guy's work, and it's hard to believe how few fabricators ever take the time to locate the seam on a piece of tubing where it's least degrading to the project.
    So, I agree... Take the time to do it... people DO notice things like that.
    I do, anyway.


    JOE:cool:
     
  19. johnnylonghair
    Joined: Jul 8, 2002
    Posts: 354

    johnnylonghair
    Member

    When I grow up I want to be just like Clarky.
     
  20. krupanut
    Joined: May 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,619

    krupanut
    Member

    This needs to go....... BTTT!
     
  21. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    If that's not inspirational, I don't know what is...
     
  22. awesome work ,clark. i needed to see this.
    yes, on the frame pics!!
     
  23. Spike!
    Joined: Nov 22, 2001
    Posts: 2,733

    Spike!
    Member

    ... And he makes awsome skateboard grind rails too...

    Spike
     
  24. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,534

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    If a guy was to believe all the rumors flying around, better get that steel for your frames NOW. Price will be going way up again shortly. About 3 months ago steel prices just about doubled in a matter of a few weeks. Within the next month its suppose to almost double again. Days of anything cheap are gone for good, I'm afraid. Gene
     
  25. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Very nice Clark.
     
  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,800

    Roothawg
    Member

    Cool stuff.........
     
  27. Thanks Clark. There are alot of guys that will benifit from a post like this.

    Plasma cutters RULE :D
     

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