The bolt pattern on the old rear is 4 3/4 on 5. The rear end is about 15 miles away. I will take a picture when I take it apart.
If you are talking about the bells on the QC, the torque is only 35 lb/ft. Anti-seize is always good. 10 of the bell to center fasteners are thru bolts. One on each side is a cap screw into the center. (this is because a thru bolt would interfere with the lower shaft) I believe that you are probably right about the unit being mag. No problem unless you want it polished. Mag polishes beautifully, but you have to keep after it all the time. A few companies made 5 on 4 3/4 B.C. floater hubs. I didn't know AFCO was one of them. If they are truly that configuration, I think that is even more reason to keep it as a floater. You have a WAY bigger selection of wheels. I would be interested in knowing what diameter the axle snouts are. 2 1/2" was originally the standard, but later Ed Howe and others started using 2". No biggie, just curious.
That is a locker. The side gears probably have about an inch between them You need to take that into consideration when narrowing. Looks like you have a nice piece there. You can do the things we talked about and wind up with a goo QC for a street car.
I have decided to narrow just the one axel tube (long) and make it 58 inches wide.I will buy 2 hollow axels and keep the one solid one for a spare. I am having some trouble finding someone to do that, but I am still looking.
Really, you can do it yourself. Remove the right side bell and tube ***embly from the center section. (11 bolts) Remove the 8 retaining bolts that secure the bell to the tube. Remove any seals in the bell or axle tube. Heat the bell/tube to 350 degrees. An oven or grill will work nicely for this. It will take some time to bring the whole thing up to temperature, like 30 - 45 minutes. If the tube doesn't slide right out of the bell, clamp the tube in a vice and smack the bell with a rubber mallet. You may have to work your way around the perimeter of the bell to keep it coming out. Once everything is apart and cool, you just need to cut off the end of the tube and duplicate any machine work that was done on the original. This may mean turning the first 5" on the end of the tube to the original diameter, and possibly a recess in the end for a seal. (some QCs have a seal in the bell and others have one in the end of the tube) Then, reheat the bell, and slide the tube back in. It is best if you can keep the clocking of the tube the same as it was before shortening. Drill and tap the tube for the 8 retainer bolts, using the bell as a drill guide. Re***emble everything, fill it with lube and install it in the car. From your pictures, it looks like the tubes don't have a bunch of junk welded on them. They are probably straight but it never hurts to check. Backlash and preload should not change.
I just went and look and used my seal puller it came right Can you send me 2,should I replace the o rings on the bells.
The guys @ Speedway Eng. are great. But, what fun would that be? As a retired Auto Shop Teacher, I'm always pushing for guys to do it themselves. That' how you learn stuff.
I can't get 1 axel tube nut to thread both nuts are rh thread,did they make a lh thread axel tube nut?
Yes, Most everybody now uses RHT on both sides now. Since the bearing preload is set and then the nuts are locked in position, it really shouldn't matter. LH nuts are still available.
My rear end came with 2 rh nuts,but I believe one side is LH thread.All the parts were still in the packages. My rear end has Serial number J15896 type O.Does this tell you anything. I have had a few people look at it and they think it is LH threads on one axel tube.How can I verify this. They are fine thread and it is hard to tell. Also the axels on the website for solid show 28.5 inch and 28 inch but for hollow 28inch.Thank you
Put a fingernail in the thread and turn the axle tube. That should tell you which way it's going. Also, if you hold the two tubes next to each other and look from the side, the slant of the threads will be opposite if one is LH. About the axle length: I would wait until you get everything back together before actually buying axles. What you want to do is ***emble the whole thing including the axle drive plates and measure with a tape. Go right thru the ***embly and get the overall width. Now, subtract an inch. (remember? the side gears in the differential are an inch apart). Now divide that number by 2 and that will give you the ideal axle length. You can vary from this either way a bit. The original build may or may not have been perfect. I always go by what I can measure not by what will theoretically work or what somebody else has done. You will need a bolt with a jam nut in at least one of the axles to adjust the end play. I would be surprised if your originals didn't have these bolts. this is your 'fudge factor' on axle length. I like to have full engagement of the splines in the side gears. But, I have seen many that were short. That doesn't seem to hurt. If they are a little long you can use a shorter bolt/jam nut. If an off the shelf axle length isn't close enough you can have them made to whatever length you want. Usually there isn't an extra charge for this, but you may have to wait until the next batch of axles is run.
The keyway made it hard to do it that way,I got some sharpie and used it on the threads for both tube they are opposites.Who can I get a LH thread N12 lock nut,do you carry them?These are fine thread and with these old eyes it was hard to tell which way the are going. Thank yu
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