Got you. Just wanted to show what I'm dealing with at the moment. Mostly metal work, be it small patches or at least two larger floor panels. Comments appreciated. Regards
Yeah you got me on the free beer lol. Floor doesn't look too bad at all. Bobs advise is solid. You should have seen what my F100 looked like.
Hard to tell from the pics, but the p***enger rear floor pan looks to have enough rust thru to tell me it's going to need a new replacement panel for the recessed area/foot weld to be done right. Realizing you're not doing a restoration, but an effort to keep it driveable, and also realizing being in Portugal getting panels is going to be expensive, I'd look into removing the rust as much as posible, then look into some patching with fibergl*** cloth and por-15. The por15 I've used as a better subs***ute for the fibergl*** epoxy normally used with the cloth. Could you bring the beer to my house?
Thanks for the input guys. No, I cannot pull a complete restoration now. Ya know, house, kids... I'm maintaining the car drivable, but obvious problems have to be adressed and so it will be. I'll give it my best shot. As to the patches, I'll go this route: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=473&highlight=floor+patch Dont know how much it would cost me to get replacement panels here, but likely too much, I'd rather invest in tools and such... cant have it all. Regards
Worst areas are on the left, mostly in the area where the original muffler (straight six) was placed, due to heat and moist.
I had a rusty as heck '68 Chevy years ago. I patched the holes with roofing flash and pop rivets. Tarred it over both sides with a roofing product, kept the interior dry until I junked it a couple of years later. The best was my '79 Chevy wagon, the front p***enger floor was so bad, the converter set the carpet on fire... with my youngest in the front seat. I gave him a jug of washer fluid to douse the fire out when it flared up... he thought it was neat. I hit Ace Hardware , used real tin this time and repeated my pop rivet technique.
Your floors aren't all that bad. Should be a relatively easy fix, compared to some I've seen. Mine were so bad that it needed 4 new pans. Wasn't enough left of the originals to work with. Oh and - what kind of beer? Never mind, free is all I need to know!
Yes, they might not be as bad, but ya know sometimes it might be better just to go ahead and replace the darn things than to be patchin up a bunch of holes. We'll see how it goes. Yesterday night I found out I made a terrible mistake: All of the window n pillar inner moldings were prepped, primed, painted and cleared in the last week or so., After a couple of days drying out hanging I wrapped then in a saran-wrap kind of stuff and put then on a shelf to keep from the comming dust and all. The damned thing glued to the surface were it touched, leaving marks all over... So, again, scuff, clear.. Dont use it.
I used the stuff years ago when I restored all the stainless on my car. You wouldn't think it would be a problem on stainless, but the shelf I was storing the stuff on was erected across a window, and the heat from the sun baked the wrap to the stainless. Took a few hours to correct the problem for each piece. Next time I'll wrap stuff in tissue first, but probably wouldn't ever shrinkwrap a painted part unless the paint is a year or so old. Years ago it would take months for paint to fully cure. They tell me nowadays with the new tech stuff, it takes a lot less time, but I still think we're talking weeks if I remember correctly.
On stainless? Darn! Yes, it was dumb of me to do that, I should have seen it coming. I scuffed every thing flat again and just left them hanging at a corner, I'll only paint and clear again right before they go in for good. Would any of you gents be able to tell me why on earth are these little inner door molding clips worth theyr very own weight in gold? I'm talking Dennis Carpenter, likely there are other sources but havent looked thoroughly: I'll be needing about 20 of them. At around 2 bucks each, we're talking 40USD plus shipment plus customs... Gotta find something similar here. Problem is I'll be reupholstering, so that meens new everything in this area. If I dont use these (or very similar) clips, holes wont match. Keep 'em running.
Will do Bob, additionally I know at least a retired guy that worked on upholstery and that with some luck I might just convince to look into his decaying shed.. I'm missing some 20, but if I can get a good deal I'll replace'em all.
Man, if you weren't half a world away I'd invite you over to help me organize my barn that's half-full of boxes of Ford stuff. I'm pretty sure we could dig up more of those clips than you need. I'd even toss in a free beer or two.
I'll end up doing that HRP, but ya know, there are many things that are in good shape still. Some of those clips are an example. One notices that quality standards were different in those days.
I have not ordered from these guys but here is a link. $8.82 for 50. Not sure of the quality. www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Trim_Fastener_Ford_383033_S101_p/a11863.htm
I have used this vendor for wiring connectors. Service and quality was very good .(clips and fasteners)
OK guys, thanks. Shot them an e-mail. Lets see what the can do regarding shipment. I'll Let you know. Forgot to say that upholstery retired guy doesnt have them.
Also forgot to show these. Did it about 2 weeks ago. Before and after step alluminium boards. During work Done
I'm taking pics of all the major steps and I'll post it completely after the first panel is welded up. On these door panel fastening clips, I gotta buy them from e-bay, shipment is lower. I have a question for you: Most of the e-bay offer is Mopar (Dodge, Chrysler..), but they seem to be the same. ARE they the same? Who can chime in? Thanks
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