Thanks. It is very far from show quality, but hey it serves the purpose, it is solid and what I think is the most important aspect of it, you accomplish the task with minimal tools which is a plus for guys like me with little money to spend. Also one learns a lot. I dont know how many hrs of actual work i've put into it, but I guess it wouldnt have come out cheap if I payed someone.
Yeah, Really! Whar DIYguy said. Rui, I honestly had no idea of your abilities. Very nice work. As for those panel clips...........I've always called them, well, panel clips. probably not correct, but at least folks know what your talking about. Beats "springy thingies". Somewhere I've got a leftover box that'll have the name and part number, but at this point I'm not even sure what house it's at.
Ok Texas, thanks. Panel clips, lets see, i'm now not sure I tryed that. Share that part# if you find it, ok?
Thanks Eric. Well, a lot of things to do. I'm now replacing sheet metal in the area where the licence plate lamp goes. Almost done. I'd also like to shape and replace the quarter panels, but that takes a bit of time. Meanwhile, I've got some grinding to do on the floors. Then 2 component primer, paint, body sealer. Also have to finish the door inside panels and send them along with the bench seats for upholstery. Its taking forever to get it back on the road again and that makes me mad.. Anyway, here's what Im missing: Cant seem to find these little clips. They go in here (sorry cka7 for taking your pic but I didnt have one of mine at hand - hope you dont mind) and hold the lower portion of the cover: Lots of similar stuff on offer but not exactly like these..
Contacted the 55-56 Customline Nation at FB, looked over the catalogues on Dennis Carpenter, Mac's and the Bird's Nest (Ford Thunderbird) but still no luck. I shot them three an e-mail with the clips pictures. Lets see. I can always fasten the bottom area of the panel in a zillion ways, but on this matter I'd like to keep it clean, no bolts on sight, and easily removable (not glued or whatever). Maybe I'll have to make my own clips =)
those are the clips I sent the part # for.I am still trying to find a seller for you.hard to believe no one carries them as ford used them for years.to say nothing about where they are being prone to rust.I am still looking for a specific name for them.clip sounds good but I think it may have been called blah-blah retainer.as in lower door panel retainer
Right on Barry, and I thank you for your effort. I've typed in the # you proposed with no results. And yes I believe there might be another name for it, being such a long-term used item. I'm gonna try "retainer", who knows.. Regards
So.. I've contacted Dennis Carpenter, Macs, The Birds Nest, Owens Salvage and Restoration Specialties. Dennis C confirmed they do not carry the clips. Owens said theyll look into it and still no word on the other suppliers. Didnt imagine it would be so hard even finding these little ones.
Well... Bob at Owens Salvage found these for me. I also got the other clips for the side of the panels. Super costumer service and a more than fair price inc shipment.
Guys, all good? I was surprised to find out that we do have a store in Portugal that sells POR 15 - https://shop.fmf-ferramentas.com/collections/por15 I'd like to hear your comments on this, who has tried it? Is it a good option for my floor - meaning will it do its job on rust only or will it protect the new pans? Thanks
Before and now: I kinda overkilled it on POR15's marine degreaser and metal prep, so Im hoping for no issues with the 2 layers of POR 15 i used. I top coated it with other 2 black gloss enamel.
Thanks. Now for the re***embly, which is taking longer than I expected. I've got my seats and floor cover out for upholstery. What have you guys used between the floor and the floor cover regarding insulation / sound deadening material?
This is similar to what I have on the floor of my car: http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultratouch-radiant-barrier/
Thank you Ron. I read this has to be glued in place. Wouldnt like to do that in case of future need to acces the floor. Do you think this or a similar solution will hold in place by the various bolts (seats, seat belt fixing points, spet panels etc)? How about the toe panel area, does one barrier there too?
somebody else might know, but I don't remember mine being attached permanently to the floor. I have a rubber floor mat, not carpet in mine. But it is stationary and doesn't move. As such I don't know how the insulation could move underneath it. It has remained in place for over 7 years. And no, I don't have the insulation behind the toe/kick panels.
I'd go with a self-stick and not worry about it stuck to the floor. Like many, I've used roofing "snow and ice shield" (rubber with aluminum facing). I can't think for the life of me why you'd need access to the floor. Maybe under the carpet for wiring, but not under the insulation. A heat gun makes it stick better, btw, and likewise can be used to loosen it. If you're going the carpet route, make sure you've thought out your wiring running to the back. Ask me how I know. LOL, I thought I had it covered by running a heavy power supply wire and a distribution box in the trunk. I hadn't thought about things that need return wires going back..like my added electric antenae!! I additionally used a 3/8 felt gluedown undercarpet pad that also had the aluminum, and my carpet was a gluedown as well.
OK, guys, thanks. My concern was in fact the electricals. My bad, I was thinking of running them in theyr original fixing clips (the ones that you can bend a bit), but that cant be done if you insulate like this. So its electricals between insulation and carpet. Thanks again.
I used Fat Mat Rattle Trap on my floor, 1/2 the price of other things on the market and it goes down well.
Looks great Bob. Applied with a heat gun I see. How thick is that? How many pieces did you need for the job? Gotta give this some thought. Theres for instance that needed access for filling up the gear box on the front p*** side. Thank you.
Guys, this question is non-Ford specific, but I was wondering who has done it and how you've done it. I've got my benchseats out for upholstering and, as I requested, the man called me yesterday saying I could go and pickup the seat's structures to prep and paint. Given my recent experienc with POR15 I wish I could just dip everything in marine clean, then metal prep and then on the black stuff... But I cant. How have tou cleaned, degreased, preped and then painted such complicated strucutres? Any ideas for a good process or am I bound for two or three days of rubbing, sanding and so forth? Thank you.
I just scrubbed mine down with a wire brush and made sure there was no loose or flaking rust anywhere. Then sprayed it with a rust converter. Next day I painted them with Tremclad rust paint. Nothing fancy but came out pretty good.
Thanks Allout, I was thinking of something along those lines too. The metal isnt in bad shape but it needs attention. I had some rattle cans of rust converter which are now gone, and somehow they dont seem to be available in local stores no more. Im just gonna spray the liquid stuff with the compressor. I guess my lawn is gonna turn black... Keep it up.
Do you think this is acceptable to go in under the floor carpets? Its double alu foil with air bubbles in the middle. Seats are back from upholstery. Ill post pics tomorrow. Thanks
I would not use it under carpets. I think it's inadequate for many reasons, mostly stepping on it will pop the bubbles. I'd be surprised if you could even get it installed without listening to all those bubbles pop as you kneel on it. However, if your planning a new headliner, keep it, the light weight makes it an excellent candidate for that. What you want will be a self adhesive, foil covered, rubber sheeting. As an alternative to the expensive automotive stuff, try your local roofing supply company. It's identical as near as I can tell. Over here the construction trade calls it "snow and ice shield". It's used under shingles in valleys and roof edges.... usually available in different width rolls. The heat gun bob was using makes it a bit easier to force the stuff into cracks and crev***es and as an added bonus, makes the adhesive tackier.
I got the Fat Mat 50-sf kit from Amazon, 80-mils thick, $109 shipped. I bought a better roller locally since the kit one was cheesy. Most of it went down without the heat gun but it helped on tight contours.
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