My dilemma.....mounting a freestanding rad in my A= without support rods from the firewall. It's flipped for one,but there's no way without being very creative that I could use them without being gaudy......Actually, I might be able to swing the pass side, almost against the cowl section, but the drivers side is a no go= there's a big pulley in the way...... So- after "the search is your friend"..... I'm looking for pictures/related post's/ threads on how radiators are mounted in an A. NOT STOCKERS. Rad is in front of the cross member,and I wont be supporting it with "pocket's" below the lower tank,but grabbing it by the sides...... This is NOT a stock A frame, but horns/dimensions are the same..... I get an idea,then change my mind,then change my mind again..... It's getting a lil frustrating now. I'm just trying to get some more idea's is all......... Basically- here's where I'm at= rad is positioned. Whatever mounting will be permanent. I will fit the shell afterwards....... I would like some pics of how you did this......That is all...... I know just tab's won't fly,so more like "tower's hidden in the side's of the core. Once the shell is on,it will never be seen..... It's just going to be a part of the frame assembly I guess. Unless it's a bolt on ....... uuuggghhhh Thanks-Kid
Two options you might consider: 1) Randy Bianchi made triangular brackets to hold up the radiator in his black blown BBC-powered T-bucket. 2) Bobby Hilton attached his radiator support rods to the front of his intake manifold- instead of the firewall- on his purple channeled A coupe. Hope this helps.
Gary- Thanks for the ideas...... I've got both of those pics combined.........That cogged pulley on the bottom,and a "firepower valve cover" on the top....... I have looked at somewhere on the top of the engine for at least ONE support rod to hold the radiator stable enough "not to rock"....... Just cant see it now . I do,but it wouldn't be pretty,as in it works for what it's intended,but just would look like sh$t to me.....,and not that I would care what anyone thinks,but it has to be clean,and not hack.......No matter how hard I would try,a zig zag support wouldn't look good IMO. I like the angled support,and will keep rethinking ideas...... Thanks! template's are flying as fast as I can cut!
Prolly not much help because its Not an a radiator, its built different. The radiator is riveted into the grill. On this one - Control the grill and you control the radiator. 2 mounting tabs on the bottom . Its got to be the heaviest damn radiator I've seen. The tire hides most of it from most angles. The brackets are welded onto the frame , hope that don't bite me in the ass later.
If the radiator is attached solid to the frame, how do you keep vibrations from cracking a seam in the radiator? I'm asking cause I think this is what happened to my last radiator & maybe I'm missing a simple fix.
You surely don't want to mount the radiator solid,all the 30 and 40's Fords were mounted with springs on the mounting tabs to minimize vibration. How about a photo of what you have now. HRP
Well with things = custom fabbed stuff, and not stock,here's the idea......Rad has to be mounted with tab's, (which will only support a percentage of the rad,so towers are a lil more supporting..... Yes- solid mounted. Any flex will be transferred through radiator hoses= (minimal flex), and engine mounted on a motor plate with biscuits..... Vicky- Rad is solid first,shell to be attatched. If they were like pictured,it would be easier,but it's not...... I just don't want it to look/be unsufficient in the mounting dept.......the shell will hide everything,but that's a whole other dilemma....... And to chessterd5= everything from the mid 30's(?) up was solid mounted.......Has to give somewhere- If I have everything tied together correctly, minimal movement unless something lets go,then I will have more worries.........
I will take some snaps to post......... Actually trying not to because the opinions will fly,and not stay with what I was asking......... But since you asked----- give me a few minuets.........
Vicky- Rad is solid first,shell to be attatched. If they were like pictured,it would be easier,but it's not...... Yeah, I know, the A shell is a flimsy decoration cover over the radiator held on by a couple screws. That one is a 1916 Willys and the shell is 16 gauge, the radiator core attached to the shell with a rivet every 3" around the entire perimeter. How about something like this. I think this from 32 ford big truck. Squint hard and you'll se it attached to the radiator instead of the cowl. You're going to need extra beef in the sides of the radiator to pull this off.
OK- so not the best pics- AND= haters don't hate! I would not like a shit storm here,just a mounting solution is all. Thanks Danny- I'm just up for resolutions,and this is early mock up stage,with plenty of fabbing to go. Here's right now-
So, your radiator is in front of the crossmember, first year for that was a 1934. What about 34 style tabs or some tabs off the crossmember to catch it out front. Then you can use springs and all that. At least some support where it's supposed to be. Now your side brackets just need to keep the thing from crashing into the blower. What grill shell are you running? For sure?
Yep- that's a major WTF? I have an aluminum 3 core 32 rad/vintique's shell.... just with lining up the top of the shell to the cowl,and the ankle bone connects to the shin bone and all,it wont jive without major surgery,and space.... So without loosing 4'', the Stang rad was an option......it's a trial fit/possible run..... Low compression/cruiser. Not a throw down/kick your ass mill,just reliable.......Hey- even running a 48 banjo,so NO burnouts here! Total shrouding for rad,so all air will go through it....... Trial by fire,and possibly the hard way! But- have had great success with the combo before........ Cubic inches are CI! Peeps see the VC'S and say OH NO! Nothing to look at here,and nothing to compare too........ Gotta try!
I have a new Vintiques 32 shell/stainless insert, which is appealing.... and I also have a stocker 31 shell. I just don't dig the ''openness" of the 31. I would have to hide the rad..... W/ the 32 stuff, I would make templates /powdercoat the material, and have ALL air flow into the radiator.
Won't jive because the lower hose is into the crossmember? I ran into the same trouble on my Vicky. I went with a 34 radiator and 34 truck shell. That solved 100 of my troubles and the kick gave me more room than I would ever need. You gotta do what works for you, but out of all the mockups the 34 truck grill looked better than the skinny 32. It let me shove the radiator to the front of the deep shell and bump the shell to the stock hood. It was like inches from heaven I can't get the carbs under the hood but I did get all of that thing inside the the stock hood. Here's some tabs I made to hold that Willys radiator - Welded to the crossmember. The Willys has a goofy goose neck on the lower hose outlet to clear the crossmember, so it can sit down and in front. It took some time getting the overlapping bends figured out but that was kinda fun.
Gotcha. Then you've already considered a radiator support rod from the radiator to the thermostat housing or crossover? Painted satin black so it would be invisible next to the top radiator hose? Some high-quality hardware (e.g. alan-heads) might give it a more professional appearance. I'll be facing the same problem in a few months with my build, so I'm very interested in your solution.
Mike, Instead of hiding your radiator brace so that it disappears, maybe another approach is to *highlight it*. Make it look like it belongs there- celebrate it... Polished or brushed aluminum or maybe stainless steel... with lightening holes so it looks racey... Here are some alternator brackets (and one green radiator bracket) that take this approach. All are plucked from the HAMB.
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