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Fried Rear-End

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chevy48, Dec 12, 2012.

  1. Chevy48
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 201

    Chevy48
    Member

    Well it figures, I rebuilt the engine, clutch, and tranny in my ‘48 Delivery leaving the rear end as it was, and of course, guess what fried? When gliding, it sounds like a cement mixer. According to the manual it could be ring-gear and pinion adjustment too loose, pinion bearings rough, or cooked ring gear.

    I have no experience is this area. If possible, I would prefer to go to junk yard and just bolt in another whole rear-end.

    However this is not a ‘48 rear-end. This one is 5-lug with a better gear ratio for highway (About 5MPH faster than speedo) with a torque-tube, and bolts up perfectly to the '48 3-speed transmission.

    Can I simply use rear-end from a ’51 Chevy (for instance) or is this a Frankenstein that will require professional help? :eek:
     
  2. A 51-54 powerglide rear should work. Worst case, you have to change the torque tube and prop shaft, but I believe these cars are the same wheelbase as one another (115") and so the torque tube is the same length in both, making it a bolt-in swap.
     
  3. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    A '54 'Glide rear is 3.55 ratio, good cruising gear, and it bolts in. Probably what your fried one was.
     
  4. Chevy48
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 201

    Chevy48
    Member

    Thanks guys, I ordered the '54 glide complete rear-end as I type! Another 500 clam-a-rinnies down, let's say, the torque-tube. Of course, I'm preaching to the choir here.

    The junk-guy also says it is a bolt-in, however did have a concern about the spring width. But since everyone, so far thinks that is what is in there now, it should probably be OK.

    Personally, I don't know jack-$#!+ about it.

    Thanks again!
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  5. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,885

    Flop
    Member

    chevy 48 i think patricks sells just the gears instead of swapping everything out .
     
  6. Chevy48
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 201

    Chevy48
    Member

    Thanks Flop!

    However, no differential experience at all. From what I understand, there are some necessary skills required.

    I figure with a little luck I can do this bolt-on in a couple of days, and be done with it. (Fingers crossed)

    But thanks! I appreciate the advice!
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2012
  7. Chevy48
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 201

    Chevy48
    Member

    To anyone interested: (Additional advice appreciated)

    Here is what I found when trying to directly bolt-in the 1954 (3.54:1) rear end in my 1948 delivery.

    The issue is the spring-seat-mounts welded to the drive-shaft-tube are two inches closer together than the ’48 mounts,

    The leaf-spring bent in just enough to allow the alignment-pins to seat in the axle-housing-mounts. But, the rear leaf-spring-mounts (shackles) had to be swapped so the left one is where the right one is, and visa-versa to make it fit. (See pic)

    Interesting enough the springs are not exactly straight to the chassis originally. They are actually further apart in the rear, in a slight V-shape. Now, with the mounts swapped, it is actually wider in the front with a similar V-shape. It is Just the other way around.

    My concern is the rear leaf-spring being tension-ed like they are, and if reversing the V-shape will affect handling? If it turns out to be an issue, I will either have to change the axle-housing mounting-brackets, or make new front leaf-spring mounts? Anyone seen this before? Is this going to be unsafe?

    ------------------------------------------------------
    Many people say, just keep the axle housing and swap the torque-tube and gear assembly. That was what was done originally. The issue is getting brake-drums that will fit. The ’48 has 1 inch brake cylinders and the ’54 has 1-1/2 inch cylinders. So with the 5 bolt axle and the ‘54 brake-drums, it actually scrapes against the back-plate and the shoes are not seated properly.

    In the front of the car, someone had replaced the 6-bolt spindle with the 5 bolt ones and I had the same problem. I fixed that by drilling out ’48 brake-drums for 5-lugs and having special spacers made a ¼ inch thick to make things line up. It works great, but was very expensive to do.
    ------------------------------------------------------

    Thanks for any advice in advance, and I hope this post may help others in the future!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  8. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,885

    Flop
    Member

    I just bolted in the center pig and torque tube. You are not going to notice the bendix brakes. Done in an afternoon and you don't even have to bleed the brakes.
     
  9. DoubleJ52
    Joined: Jul 15, 2007
    Posts: 237

    DoubleJ52
    Member
    from Belton, MO

    Can't you transfer the differential into the housing that's already in the car? Would be alot simpler I think.
     
  10. Chevy48
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 201

    Chevy48
    Member

    Yes but the backing plates cause an issue. (See bottom of previous post)

    The 5-lug axles must be of a different length or something? the 5 lug brake drums scrape against the back plate?

    Thanks!
     

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