Technical Front brake line clearance: sbc in a model A

I've looked online for minimum clearance between the brake line and the down pipe on the drivers side of my model A. Seeing how this is a common swap I was surprised not to be able to find any specific solutions for this. There is only 3/4 of an inch between the frame and the pipe. I ran the line down the outside of the frame which takes care of the clearance issue but I can't say I'm entirely happy with it. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I have all winter to work on a solution.


Phil

 

I wouldn't run that on the outside of the frame... Make a small heat shield if you think it's needed and run it on the inside of the frame..... If you have 3/4 of an inch clearance it shouldn't get that hot. Dot 3 brake fluid boils at 400 degrees and dot 4 boils at 450 degrees ...
When your driving you'll have plenty of air flow by it....

 

I agree with above, that has to go.

Install it on the bottom inside corner, its protected inside, it's low enough it should get plenty of air flow and best of all out of sight...

 

Plus the residual valve should be as close to the master as possible.

 

Does anyone have pictures?

Phil

 

ahh, so the idea of incorporating a residual valve into a 'through the frame' fitting is no good, as its too far from the mc, I was thinking it would eliminate sooo many joints
another one that is puzzling is, IF you are making new lines, why use the adaptor to the valve and not simply get the correct fitting for it?
is it impossible to get an inperial fitting for 'say' a early ford wheel cylinder flexi pipe to the valve
what are the threads on them anyway? are they an?

or, is the 'reason' none of the big hitters have made such a thing is because its too far.
you know if you are using a gm 78 up metric caliper on the front, its a 3/8 - whatever it is banjo, so it makes no difference there, even if there is a mounting of sorts for a residual valve to be fitted to an open frame mounted so its fireing out would still be groovy.

I mean, just in that pic there are five joints, which 'could be' 2

would it be possible to combine the flexi front line to a prop valve that is then a through the frame fitting, that then has the wheel cylinder end the style that has the longer shank
for doing the f100 swap onto a 37 spindle - then sell one with a 78 up metric banjo
then, even IF you have an open frame rail - you would need to weld in a plate with a hole



p.s. does the steering box want a heat-sheild?

 

I welded two bolts to the exhaust pipe put a nut on to space the heat shield up and put another one on to bolt it on...

 

I'm guessing Bluebear boxed those rails, as he was told to. That being the case some additional clearance could be ashieved by insetting the boxing plate in the area of the exhaust downpipe. Even a meagre 1/2" would make a difference. Beyond that heatshield, wrap etc as already said. But its only a short length of brakepipe that's exposed to much heat, and I guess that would be conducted away rapidly too, so wouldn't be overly concerned.

As it is it, I agree, it look bad, plus is more exposed to possible damage than it would otherwise be.


Chris

Sent from my SM-T515 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Holy thread hijack Nobby!! At the risk of perpetuating the intrusion, and apologies in advance, every one of those valves I've seen have been 1/8" npt, hence adapters required.

Chris

Sent from my SM-T515 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You have to buy a
1. flexi front line $20
2. through the frame fitting $20
3. residual valve $20
combine them and sell them for $60 each
$120 a pair,
they would sell on the strength of the joint reduction

 

I did something very similar, but I used small clamps to secure the line up against the frame. I drilled and tapped holes in the frame and used small machine screws to attach the clamps. It is very secure. I've attached an image of the clamps similar to what I made.

At first I worried about road debris hitting it. However, it is steel line, it is hard against the frame, and road debris could hit it regardless of where it was mounted. I think it will be fine.

 

All the resedual valves I could find were 1/8 npt so adapters are needed, if I could have found one's with inverted flair ends that would have been great as the adapters caused me a lot of grief. I ended up having to buy 2 ss adapters.

In not as worried about the steering box as it has substantial mass.

Phil