Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Front "C" Notch on Model A Frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LM14, Oct 9, 2018.

  1. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    Did a search and found lots of info about the rear but nothing about the front on an "A" ch***is.

    Building a '26 T coupe and sitting it on a Speedway Model A frame. Wanting the front a bit lower and considering a "C" notch on the front frame rails. Already has a reversed eye spring, don't want to step the frame rails. Currently in mock up with the main leaf only and the top of the leaf is hitting the bottom of the rail and I'm still about a half inch high on the frame rail from where I want it to be (not considering the additional leafs that will be put back in later!).

    How deep can you safely notch the side rails if you re-box the area (over the spring) after rail material is removed for spring clearance? Only thing putting any load on the frame horn in front of the notch will be the shock and headlight.

    Thanks,
    SPark

    84BDACAA-8839-4953-822A-7F7EB76546A3.jpeg 5698B126-2034-49DB-AA7B-1984EBCBCC30.jpeg 88938C26-5F48-4608-9EA4-8A3545A5D1F4.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2018
  2. Something there don't look right at all. Do you have a spacer above the main leaf to represent the total spring pack once done? That in itself should move the main leaf down and away from the Frame around 2.5".
    The Wizzard
     
    alanp561, scrap metal 48 and chop job like this.
  3. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,537

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Notching the frame rails isn't new, look thru any street rod magazine and you can see examples of how it's done. Is the frame boxed? You may have to do a deeper cut on the inside frame rail to clear the spring. As Pist mentions, the spring does seem very low, the last thing you need is the frame bottoming out on the spring.
     
    chop job and Pist-n-Broke like this.
  4. One thing I learned by doing this over the Years is to make plenty of room on each side of the main leaf if you in fact need to do it. Exact mock up and building locations aren't always where things end up once your ready for a test drive after an alignment. Give yourself come clearance for adjustments.
    The Wizzard
     
  5. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

    Deeper cut on inside of rec. tube frame as well as a 3/8 plate welded on inside from in front of spring to behind shock mount plate. The panhard bar plate was also welded to frame. Actual shock mount bolted to it. Spring is a Posie with reverse eye. Engine a 425 nailhead. Never touched.
    Panhard Bar Shock Mount mount.JPG
     
  6. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 65,031

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I pie notched my frame rails where the front spring travels from the inside out, and the used a piece of channel to reinforce the cut. HRP
     
  7. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,128

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    When you stack more leaves on top of main leaf you will have more room before it hits the frame.. The extra leaves are shorter thus making more room for travel.. A little notching is still a good idea...
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  8. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    You caught it. Don’t do things in the middle of the night with no sleep for a couple days. Spacers to replace the spring big stack are all below the spring. Still think I’ll put a notch in the rails. They are 2x4 with a taper to 3 at the front.

    Thanks!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.