Front end change on my Model A sedan?

that height looks about right to me. i like the setup with the shocks, are those bottom shock mounts something you fabed yourself?

also, cant really see your steering setup ...would it interfier if you were running split bones?

 

Speedway and others sell the lower shock mounts like that that go on the bottom of the perch bolts.

Good call on the A grill shell, that will change the whole look of the car.

 

The lower shock mounts are available through any reputable hot-rod shop which sells hotrod dropped axle components---they are attached to the lower shank of the shackle perch bolt which p***es thru the axle. The shackle perch bolt p***es thru a hole in the shock mount, and then the nut which goes on the bottom of the shackle bolt traps the shock mount between the nut and the axle. No, split bones would fit okay, but the trouble with split bones and a dropped axle is that the tie rod and drag link would want to run right thru the position occupied by the bones. Thats why you have to burn off the stock 40 Ford spindle arms and install purchased bolt-on steering arms---to relocate the drag link and tie-rod either above or below the wishbones. On 4 bar set-up like I have, or on hairpin radius rods, the original 40 Ford steering arms can still be used, and the tie-rod and drag link will p*** between the upper and lower bars.

 

thanks guys, i think i figured it out. correct me if im wrong or doing something stupid.

going to go with a dropped axle setup. axle under the spring, with the shackle mount that goes through the axle. with the shock mount on the underside...

going to use my 40 spindles, brakes....and use my wishbones, but move the wishbone rear mount towards the center of the car more and get new lowered steering arms and tie rod setup for the vega steering.

my only question outstanding is in regards to the play in my spindles. new kingpins, old bushings...will i be ok with the new axle and my old kingpins/spindles? right now there is more play than id like.

and with the vega box and the lowered steering arm/tie rod setup am i going to have to get a different pitman arm?

 

If your kingpins are new/good, you can buy just the bushings from places like Mac's.

Don't know what pitman arm is currently on your steering box, but it morethanlikely won't fit the Vega and have the correct up/down positioning. New pitman arms made for Vega boxes don't cost much. But the new or rebuilt Vega boxes do! Upwards from $300!

 

i mean ***ide from the standard vega pitman arms...i know mine now wont work.

does the superbell kit come with new bushings so my spindles and kingpins would be solid is my question or do the bushings go more hand in hand with the spindle/kingpin

 

nevermind i got my answer

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/paging.yes/dept_id.322/display_id.2023/qx/Product.htm

so if i REALLY wanted to do it right, 199 for new spindles, 500 for axle kit, 80 for lowered steering arms, 40ish for lower shock mounts, 140 for my brake parts, then id have to move my rear wishbone mounts back.

wow. anyone wanna buy a 40 front end?

 

Do you have steering stops on your set up. These are longer studs that go thru the kingpin and keep the steering from going as far (prevents rubbing). I went with longer ones because I my wheels were turning to far (see pics below)

I would rebuild the front brakes and bushing and keep it as it is. if you want slightly lower (or more rake) then maybe one size smaller front tire.

I would not go to the trouble to redo the complete front end. (My opinion)

 

dang it, i dunno. im up in the air right now. it IS a lot of money. money that could be spent on other things. also a lot of time. i mean, it is/was running like this, if i kept it as is...redid the spindle bushings, say 100$ max? get lower spring mounts....and steering stops, 100? then brakes redon for 140..
that sounds a little better, and i can have this axle drilled for free from a local machine shop.
i DO like the ride height. and yeah smaller tires all around are in order most likely, i dont like the 17s in the rear and may go smaller, but not sure yet...

also, lowering the rear mount an inch or less which i have to do anyways as its REAL close to the body, will fix the spring shackle "twist" im ***uming. SO i may be back to square one

but hey...at least i learned about front ends.haha.

 

well said kevin....

 

thanks your advice is very much appreciated.

as far as brakes, yeah, i do need 2 new wheel cylinders, i dont think a rebuild is going to cut it this time....i had dad come over and look at it and he says the same thing, (he owns a muffler/brake shop).....the cheapest both him and i have found a complete kit (shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, clips, etc.) for is 190 with a 50$ core. He is also going to cut the drums for me as they really need it.

as far as the bushings, i have no problem doing it myself. just that people have been scaring me telling me they need to be reamed, etc. etc. etc.

as for my steering, its kind of a mess, and steers like poo-poo, the link isnt at al level, there is a lot of play steering and im just not comfortable with how the box is mounted...its a 36 pontiac box.

i also am putting different headers on it, that dump out by the cowl, that will interfere. to be honest i just dont like the cowl steering as much as i dont really like the grill.

and yeah, tires are a given, blackwalls, i was actually looking at the post of those dunlop radials that look cool, or ill probably just go with firestones.



going for kind of this look

 

actually just checked macs and can do the brakes for a little over 100 as all my hardware is good....

thanks

 

ok, i got pretty much everything, for 207+ 50 core. i just went and looked at the front end again, i think i overreacted a little bit. the shocks just need a washer behind them and they wont hit, so thats good.

so all im doing is brakes, bushings, bearings.

then the steering when i get a little more dough hopefully this weekend. someone buy my van damnit!

 

actually lowered the price. dad suggested we also at least give a try to a wheel cylinders rebuild..although im i correct the rebuild kit only contains boots and the little plate/washer clip thing?

i got all new bearings, wheel cylinder repair kits, all everything for my spindles but the kingpins, (it was cheap 19$ enough and included all 4 bushings), brake shoes, and brake shoe springs for 126.70+ 50 core.

 

Silly question, and I'm no expert, and with some of the threads turning into a slanging match, I'm hesitant to admit this. Looking at the picture of the steering arm and the plane it heads down on, shouldn't the pitman arm be longer to allow the drag link to run parallel with the wishbone? Maybe that is an answer to alternative steering boxes etc. Just my $0.02 worth.
Michael

 

yeah, but i dont think thats going to fix the problem completely. (i had another post on this a while back) im just not a fan of the cowl steering and its not at all going to work with my headers.

im selling my van, which is my daily, this car will most likely be my daily (i carpool to work with my girlfirned most of the time so its not my DAILY DAILY) but, i plan on putting 15k miles a year at least on it. especially when my van sells. thats why im even considering the dunlop radials that are cool looking

 

yep, and i dont need the foot room as much in a sedan, i can see if it was a roadster with a hemi in it or something.

Kevin, any suggestions on easy, clean, columns to use with that vega box? maybe something i can use with my already existing banjo wheel? the column is cut real short so i dont think i can reuse it.

 

yeah the cowl hoop should be good, then another mount as it goes through the firewall. i just didnt want to spend over 100$ on a new steering column and u-joints etc. if i can get a good used column illbe happy.

 

I know you dont want to spend allot on a column but I will sasy this any way. Limeworks Speed shop makes very nice stainless columns in a variety of lengths and with different bells on the wheel end to perfectly match the wheel style you are using weather it is a 40 or a banjo. They are super nice people to work with. I bought a 40 wheel and column from them and love both pieces. I have the Limeworks 40 column and wheel with borgeson joints to an original Vega box and my car steers super smooth, almost too smooth and effortlessly that I am thinking of putting a steering stabilizer on it like what So-cal sells if it would put a little resistance in the steering. Hope it all works out for you.

Tracy

 

yeah i looked at those, my father has one on his coupe, but he has radials too, its drives like a caddy.

curious if they make one for not a 4link

 

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curious if they make one for not a 4link

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pretty much a universal piece.....weld a piece of round tubing or stock to the wishbone......a friend of mine has a setup like this on his old modified....brandon

 

yeah i think dads is on his frame..

 

I think you're gonna have a ground clearance issue with the temp. gauge!

Yeah, a longer axle would help all that out. Chopping into the stuff that locates the axles would be my last resort (yeah, I know it's done a lot....).

 

A guy should NOT ream his spindle bushings with a brake cylinder hone. They should be reamed together on a line reamer to make sure both bushings are exactly in line. If done separately they will be slightly off and will wear improperly (fast). Then you'll be right back where you are now.

 

last night I broke everything down cleaned it all up, waiting on my brakes, bushings, bearings, should be there when i get home...in the meantime i drilled my axle.






I used a step drill bit and a cheapo drill press i have, worked great! i figured, what the hell id try the first middle hole and if it didnt work out so hot id just take it somewhere and have them do the rest.

well. i did 15 holes, spaced 2.5 on center. i didnt go too big with the holes as i liked the way this looked. man, i cant believe it came out and all the holes are in-line and straight, nothing looks crooked or no holes look "off" like some ive seen.

since i used the stepped bit, on each hole after i got to the size of the rest of the holes, id hit it with the next size real quick on both sides to give it a "dimpled" look. it came out 100x better than i expected..and worked great..

my ONLY problem, is on my last hole, the tip of the step bit (a cheap home depot irwin one) broke off in the hole about half way through and seemed like it welded itself inside...must be made of kryptonite because it was a ***** to drill out, i had to hit if from the other side...when i hit it..i had to take a punch, file it down and hammer out the peice...i tried initially drilling through it...yeah right..

should be back together by tonight/tomorrow night.

i also picked up a vega box im going to mount after i pull the motor tonight or tomorrow.

 

figured id post here since i feel lately all i have been doing is bugging everyone with silly questions....

i went all gold chainer and picked up a vega box and one of these brake setups this weekend (got a great deal on it)

im running drum drum.....
i ripped out all the old brake lines and fittings (they all leaked)

do i need residual or prop valves? what size brake lines? where can i get tee's and fittings i need.



sure hope i can fit it undert the floor ok haha.