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Technical Front leaf spring bushes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Reidy, Feb 3, 2026 at 1:57 AM.

  1. Reidy
    Joined: May 13, 2016
    Posts: 235

    Reidy
    Member

    I am building a 1941 Chev pickup and will be retaining the I beam axle and parallel leaf springs for the front end. The original springs had bronze bushes. I am looking at using some springs of a latter model car to soften the ride and go for a bit longer spring. I will be moving mounts and steering box to suit.

    The all use rubber bushes. Does this cause any issues with steering on the front parallel leaf setup? Does this help with the ride? Hopefully someone has been down this road and can share their experience.

    Thanks
     
    Toms Dogs likes this.
  2. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,912

    Joe H
    Member

    I looked into rubber bushing for my '37 Chevrolet truck, no one made any or even recommended any. I found mine road much better with teflon type liner between each leaf. It was quieter and softer riding.

    If you keep the front bushing all metal, the axle will stay aligned, then use rubber in the shackles.
    With only 1 3/4" wide springs and such small diameters bushings, I doubt you find very many springs that will fit the hanger, let alone getting a rubber bushing in there. Seems like a lot of work for very little gains.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  3. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 3,179

    Ziggster
    Member

    IH Scouts used 1 3/4” wide springs.
     
  4. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,912

    Joe H
    Member

  5. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,870

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I've used polyurethane bushings that have a steel sleeve inside. The best of both worlds. The sleeve works well against the bolt, and poly gives a good ride, but not mushy like rubber can be. I bought a cheap polyurethane set for a Chevy Tahoe that have I think 3" wide springs, and I chucked the bushings up in my lathe and easily turned them down to fit, then cut them and the sleeves to length. Worked great, and being black they didn't look weird on my old car.
     
    Toms Dogs and RMR&C like this.
  6. Reidy
    Joined: May 13, 2016
    Posts: 235

    Reidy
    Member

    Thanks for all the replies, the poly sounds like the way to go as I have a lathe. As for spring mounts, the ch***is I will be using had all the mounts removed by the previous owner, I have the original mounts but it will be little extra work if I have to put different mounts on to use different springs. I have the original springs but they have wear from use over the years. It looks like abrasive dust was between the leaves and wore away part of the spring in the last 70 years. Springs have got dear in Australia but in the spirit of hotroding using parts from another car makes scene. My daily driver is a 20 year old falcon ute and it has leaf springs in the back, Spares are plentiful and the made different packs depending on if it was a wagon 3/4 ton ute or 1 ton ute.
     
    Toms Dogs likes this.
  7. Deke
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 20

    Deke
    Member

    Look into early Willy's Jeep springs, I used a set on the front of my 38 GMC without much work.
     
  8. Toms Dogs
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,210

    Toms Dogs
    Member
    from NJ

  9. NoelC
    Joined: Mar 21, 2018
    Posts: 737

    NoelC
    Member

    I'm not sure if this will be of any value to the conversation or not, but recently I faced a similar conundrum. While I'm sure in my case an option existed for improvement if I had been willing to spend the big bucks that seems to be the popular solution to a problem in this hobby, my interest is in get it together, make it functionable and if need be improve it later. I call it hot rodding?
    Having said that, did you know you can buy hockey pucks in different ounce weights and those weights correspond to rubber density? I didn't until I went to buy a couple.
     

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