Slowly collecting parts for my 34 front end. A set of split bones is next on the list. Any years in particular better than others. Axle is an Oki Joe undropped 34.
I've used both 32's and 33/34 split bones with either the late style Ford tie rod ends or 32/34 ends using the Cory Taulbert weld on bungs. Biggest challenge is the decision where to run the tie rod. Over or under the bones. Over is easy but there can be frame clearance issues. Under is a bit more challenging as it requires some precise bending of the steering arms. Lots of builders today are using the 37-40 bones or the 46-48 bones with bolt on steering arms from companies like Pete & Jake's
Lots more 40 and 48 wishbones out there now compared to 32-34. And at 1/10th the price. And easier to get the tie rod under since they run higher. Just fine for a full fendered car.
The only thing to be aware of (in case he is not, I know you are) is the difference in axle, and therefore wishbone thickness. 33-36 wishbones will accommodate a 2" thick axle (33-36 axles), while the other flavors of wishbones will need a spacer as they will be for 2 1/4" thick axles.
Well '32-'34 bones are traditional and pretty distinctive in appearance; but most people won't notice the difference. '35-'36 have a 2" yoke that will fit your axle and are higher on the yoke than the others so they have a little more room under them; but the yoke is not suited for "thinning" to fit earlier perch bolts or modern bolts with street rod lower shock mounts. '37-'40 have a 2-1/4" (or so) yoke that will require a spacer to fit your axle; but are the better looking of the later wishbones and the top of the yoke is easily milled and re-tapered to fit early perch bolts or modern ones with street rod lower shock mounts. '41s are the same but a little longer. '42-'48 have a dog-leg in the wishbone and I guess some people may actually like them. '37-'40 seem like the easiest choice unless the vision you have for your car requires the '32-'34 wishbones.
Cheers all, very much appreciated, especially @RICH B for such a detailed response. I have a set of 32 perch pins I would like to use if possible so the info around that is very hepful.
Here are a couple pictures of how the yoke was reworked on the '40 wishbones we used on my friend's '33. While we did this to fit street rod lower shock mounts; the same method will work to fit the short '32-'34 perch bolts. First a rough cut was made with a cut off grinder to remove the bulk of the excess material. The wishbone was then set up in a Bridgeport and the top was cut square and to the final height. The tapered seat for the perch pin was then cut. (I didn't go over to my kid's house so I didn't get any pictures of the machine work.) The new cut was then sanded to blend into the rest of the yoke. If you don't have access to a mill; the same result could be obtained with a grinder and some "precision" die grinder work for the taper. In the last red axle picture, you can see the shim washer between the yoke and the bottom of the axle; this makes up the difference between the 2-1/4" axle and the 2-1/4"+ '40 yoke. The picture of the black axle shows the thicker spacer needed with a '32-'36 2" boss axle. I usually make those out of 1-3/8" round stock cut to the correct thickness and then drilled to 11/16".
I like 46 7 8 because they dip down instead of straight . gives more clearance on the frame, unless you are going to outside of frame. I just split mine about a foot .
I have a friend who is finishing a deuce roadster started by one of the current high end rod shops. This shop uses the 46-48 bones on most of the 32 chassis. What he was faced with was the thickness of the yoke on the 46-48 bones resulted in an unsafe minimum thread contact with the use of the bolt on lower shock mounts. He did some machining on the yoke and shock mounts to have more thread contact..
Now you did it! Time to do some sculpting because this is how milling them looks like. Your’s look much better.
Depending on which way you decide, pretty sure I have a set of either 32 or possibly 33/34 split bones that I have no use for. I just need to figure out for sure what they are. I had Sid (Nostalgia Sid’s Dropped Axles) quickly look at them, but I don’t remember what we decided they were...
No, I came into this after it began being built by other’s. All I did was machine the thicker portion down so the perch bolt’s would work with lower shock mounts.
Thanks again all, and once again @RICH B for such a detailed response. VERY much appreciated. I dont have access to a bridgeport etc and not sure on my hand scultping skills Are all perch pins the same length or to make this as simple as possible should I be looking for others. With an eye on keeping this simple, if I found some 32-36 bones they fit a 2inch axle although I understand the 32s are a bit shorter? Will the 32 perches work with 33-36 bones or still need the modifications? Cheers mate, getting them to Japan is problematic but really appreciate the thought.
There are longer perch bolt’s that can be purchased. However they are not long enough when using bones with this style yoke. That’s why I machined mine thinner.
32 wishbones are the longest and have the sexiest shape. Like a nice set of legs in a short skirt. If you are using fenders, it shouldn’t really matter which ones you use. As you might guess the stock 32-34 perches are the exact same as each other and interchange just fine on their wishbones. If you want to use those lower shock mounts that attach below the bones you will need aftermarket perches. That’s the only way.
If the rear yoke is cut off they would be a tidy package to ship. I have all varieties except 32 if you wish. Could probably find time to mill off the ugly too.
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