Technical Front Suspension/Steering Questions

Did I mention that my better half agreed to the purchase of this ride because it was a recent build and " needs nothing".

 

We won't tell her anything.

 

On the possible relocation of the shock mounts and drilling holes..... the shock mounts look like SoCal pieces, which are stylized F1 mounts. These come with threaded bungs which require welding into the frame. I know some have found that these welded in bungs can fail. When I mounted mine I remade the bungs so they were longer and a little fatter. This enabled them to be welded not just at the outer face of the frame but also plug welded to the boxing plate and / or the horizontal surfaces of the frame. So much more than just nuts and bolts, and requires welding and refinishing, something I expect you're looking to avoid!

Chris

 

Just took this pic of mine. Parallel (ish) and aligned! I like shiney! Must swap the top nut on the shock!

Chris

 

Yes, everything looks to be aligned correctly.
Would it look better with the nut on the back ?
An Acorn nut might be good.

 

It has a forward facing stud coming out of the mount, and yes, an acorn nut is in the plan (but I'd forgotten about it till I took the pic!). From the front it's hidden behind the headlamp, hence why it has escaped my notice!

Chris

 

I approve of your shininess.

 

Ok, makes sense now. Don't know what I was looking at.

 

Thanks, I will take a look.

 

That pics help. I think if I can rotate the lower mounts I will be closer, maybe not great but better. I am going to end up taking the front end apart and reinstalling everything as suggested. Disconnect rear wishbone at the mount, remove the spring, add two leaves back to the spring and re install spring on axel, spring to frame and reconnect the bones. Hoping I can get everything to line up better. Early I said the lowercshock mounts weren't keyed. I was looking at some on line today and I see they have a keyway in the mount and you need to add apiece of key stock. I was looking for a slot at the bottom of the stem that the mount would key in to. Now I bet they are keyed, I will have to take a look. I am now considering installing hairpins, again after some web snooping I realize that the way the bones were cut to go under the tie rod is not the norm. I initially thought they just didn't have a pretty bead.
Thanks all, I have a good bit of work to do.

 

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.
Also remember : The guy who assembled the front end, also did the back end.

 

BTW, if you haven't already measured the bones mounting point on the frame, check that both sides are exactly the same length. This would effect the proper tierod end length(s) to keep the front axle properly aligned & each-side wheelbase the same. Might be pointless, esp since you're already checking everything else, but at least you'd know. & proper hairpins would solve more than a few issues there. Good base to start with there, you'll be happy when it's right("& she'll like it too". ).
Marcus...

 

Isn’t a car with cross steering in need of a panhard bar also? I’m kinda green on the answer , but I just moved a mount on an A with cross steering and it has a panhard bar . My 32 does not have cross steering so I have none .

 

That would be eliminated greatly with a shorter main leaf that would restore the correct shackle angle. But as it stands now.....yes. JW

 

This is the most true suggestion on this thread and any build like this... something to remember when you get someone else's work. JW

 

These work awesome!!

 

I haven’t read every post, so excuse me if it has been mentioned.
Whilst you are fixing things, consider cutting off the nuts to wishbones and weld in some correct bungs with a longer thread, as with a nut welded to the wishbone (and even if the wishbone is threaded) there is not much/enough engagement for the ball joint.

 

A panhard bar certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

Keep after it.

Caster and Camber on flat ground. I had lowered my front rake, and lost caster as a result.

 

Absolutely if cross spring, that would be dangerous without.

 

Ditch those big front tires, do some 5:60 x 15's or 6:00 x 15's with 1/8 in toe in and 6 deg caster and you should be OK. Balance the wheel and tire assy on the car with a dynamic balencer machine too, add the needed weights.

 

Don’t want to add to your work list too much, but I would definitely add a gusset or two to the steering box mount.

 

Really doubt you'll have much luck finding an old on car balancer these days .