Don't be sorry for having good tires, I've got radials on my roadster and won't ever apoligize for it, they make a hell of a difference in the way it drives, 75, smooth as silk.
This seems to be a common problem on a lot of Tees and the like. NOT to discount the ideas given here at all...but I wonder does it also have something to do with how limited the shock action is on this style car? Most have a friction shock thats connected to the axle far inboard from the tire/wheel assembly. I can't see it being that effective to limit the tramping effect once a tire hits that critical speed. For me, a shock seems as though it would be most effective for all purposes if mounted as close to the spindle as possible. Unfortunately...that isn't really possible with a Tees design! Your hands are basicly tied!!!! The results and ideas offered in this thread are interesting as I will be building something like this as soon as possible!
I've been following this thread for some time. I would jack the wheel up until it just clears the ground and spin it to see if it is round. You can set a heavy object near the tread and turn the wheel while watching the clearance. Move the piece toward the tread until it rubs slightly. All tires are a little out of round but it will show up much more on a light car. Many large flotation tires on big rigs have to have the tread surfaced to make them round. I use balance powder in tires. You no longer have to worry about wheel and hub balance. Many tire shops don't recommend it because they can't charge you $10 a wheel. Could it possibly be an aerodynamic cause? Air coming around some part might form turbulence at that wheel at a particular speed. I agree that you're pushing your luck with 10 year old tires.
You know I been thinking about doing just this.. I will find out if there is anything out..I will replace the tires but I am hoping to find the problem first..nothing worse then doing too many things and the problem is fixed and you dont know what caused it.
Bill you dont know how much I want to dump the friction shocks but setting up a shock out front will involve some mods to the frame.. You know I have a list a mile long on this car I want to change and Im not getting into one small one now cause if I do Ill end up scrapping the car!! lol we dont need that right now..get something else on the road first..
A side note here about the shocks, I never did get around to putting shocks on mine. It's been on the road for 5 years without front shocks, so that being said. I too get a up and down shimmy at around 60 mph on the right front only but you can drive through it and it's gone by 65 mph. I have bias plies with drum brakes and it's there with radials and a different rim too. I think a shock would slow it down but weird that it does it at all...lol
Im no mechanic, not even close but, bolt up another rim and tire ( both fronts ) and go for a ride if the problem is still there than a wheel bearing is loose or shot. If the problem is gone, buy 2 new tires for your old rims, if problem returns with 2 new tires buy 2 new rims. I use the process of elimination, not the fastest way to fix a problem but very effective. Im betting on bad tires, as for VW tire not going fast, a ton of race cars use them Godspeed MrC.
I had that same problem with chrome rod style shocks and changed them out to a set of Bilstiens and that solved my problem. I am not saying that the friction shocks are or not your problem but would not rule them out as a possible cause. For all of the people that say they would replace the 10 year old tires I would not worry about how old they are unless they are cracked and weathered. Most hot rods do not see many miles to wear tires out in 10 years. I have had my tires for at least 10 years( I have not drove it much the last 3 years) and they have plenty of tread left with no problems and are not weather or cracked. good luck solving your problem and please post what cures it.
Plus the fact that he says in his original post that the problem has been for for the entire 12 years that he has had the car. The tires probably weren't that old back then.
I had a problem with the setup on the shocks last year and had them let go to see how the ride changed and the car seem to run the same,no worse with or without.. But saying that the shock might be not worth a dam anyway!! lol
I had that problem with my AV8 Tudor,(Avatar). Crapped out recirculating ball steering box was the problem. Sometimes it was OK and then it became a tank slapper. I never really busted its balls but, that's what happened.
Thats the plan to swap out the two front wheels and tires.. I been wanting to get rid of the wheels on the car. got them in a deal years ago and they are just the right size but not a hot rod wheel in my mind..Im working towards a set of 52 chevy steel wheels on the car. Have a set of back one widen just need to get the front figure out.
taking the shocks out of the equation is not the answer, I would think that would be worse in most cases. What I was trying to say is that sometimes shocks will not hold the car and allow it to bounce/create a vibration. It is only my thought and just passing it along.
No I hooked them back up..was not taking any chances.Just want to see if they helped the front.want to see if there was any diferents.
My bet is tires, I love T's, they're notoriously bad handling cause of the big and little tire thing. I'd try new wider wheels and tires, scrounge some from a buddy or a tire shop that is open minded, try different stuff, you'll get to where you can live with it. My last T was a fantastic car, quarter elliptics in the back, cross spring on a tube axle, 265-70 15s on the back, 215-60 15s on the front, matching tires, (all dunlops), it would outrun a porsche on the sea to sky hwy, done it many times. Front dialed in at 6 degrees caster, 1/8 toe in, very good at speed, but every now and then, depending on how you held your tongue just so, I'd get a wobble, the cure was to bury the throttle and it would instantly stop. I never figured out why it would wobble, I just tried everything I could to change the car to see where it originated. Good luck, lotsa great minds here, you'll get it.
Im also in the tyre camp, was running second hand (many year old) tyres up front, tyres were seperating, and replaced them with newer ones in my stash and the vibration went away.
Not to try and hi jack the thread. I found my problem. The pitman arm would move aprox 1/4 '' I adjusted the steering box to take up the slop and had it to 50 mph today. It was not shocks,or wheel balance. Mine was not an up and down movement it was the dreaded death wobble. All gone now. look at my thread .I called it a shimmy, but it is more likely called death wobble.
Guys If you read my posts you will know it is still dame cold here and it will be another few weeks till i get it out!! lol.. Thanks for the interests tho..Ill post on my finding when I get it out.
FYI, I've got the same problem with my T-bucket. Might go weeks without the wobble then suddenly the front end would start shaking at around 35-40 mph. Had the front wheels spun balanced and found the right front Weld Racing Draglite wheel was bent. I've since bought two new Series 13 smoothies which I have yet to put on. Getting new tires and adding a SoCal steering damper.
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