Front wish bone set up ?

Just wanted to know if this is the correct way to set up my front axle with a 8 degree cut here is a picture of the wish bone. I will be removing the front tires and put 4 jack stands and level the frame. If I need to do this in a different way let me know. Also is this the area I should be cutting.

Thanks
Frenchy

 

Why not just move the outer mounting point (tie rod end) down?

 

'Cause it doesn't look nearly as nice with the ends of the wishbones dropped down. Yes Frenchy, you are on the right track, but I would do my best to scoot your cuts forward a bit so you don't end up with an awkward kink in the 'bones. You can't go to much farther for ward, but a bit will help visually. I usually drill a couple of small holes aft of the factory weld seem to find the end of the "tab" Ford forged into perch end.

 

Here is how I do them, I start with a piece of rectangle tubing and lay the wishbone on it, slide a piece of round stock through the clevis and mark the tube with a sharpie. I then level the tube on the bench, using my digital angle finder draw a line at the desired angle/caster. Grind/cut the tube and clevis so they are both the same size when touching. Grind and insert a piece of cold bar stock and fully weld the joint as well as rosettes and repeat and grind untill all is smooth.

Something to consider, do you want them level with the ground or sweeping up with the raked frame. This should be taken into account when readjusting the ends/caster.

The way you mentioned doing them has been done many times and should work just fine, I tend to like overkill.

 

and level the frame
Most cars have some rake to the stance. As you add rake, you remove caster. So you should have the frame set with the rake angle you want and then set the axle caster to what you want. Typical rake caster can be in the 2-3 dergee range, so I guess if you are looking for 5-6 degrees of caster your 8 degree thing might work. I'd prefer to work with the actual numbers.

 

You could grind around the factory weld, separate the perch end from the tube, cut your 8 degrees on the tube, grind the perch end to fit, weld back where the original factory welds were. Lots of support, looks factory, grinding around the weld is not hard, did this on my rearend mounts.

 

I've always done mine with the chassis mocked up at ride height.