If this info is posted somewhere else, please steer me in the right direction. The 272 in my 55 Fairlane is on it's last leg so I intend to install a fuel injected 5.0 from a doner Mustang. My experience is all with carbs so I have some questions. 1. I know I need to remove the entire engine harness and computer. Is there anything specific I should be careful with? Any tips to make it easier? 2. Fuel tank/pump and plumbing. Is there an easy way to do this or should I also salvage the tank and lines? 3. Motor mounts? 4. Clutch linkage mechanical or hydraulic. What have you done? 5. Is there sufficient clearance from the bench seat for the shifter or an alternative? Any tech/helpful info will be greatly appreciated. Russ /
Welcome from So Cal. 5.0 is a good way to go, that's what I did with mine. 1. Running carb, can't help. 2. Still no help. 3. Link to FAQs 4. I'm using a hydraulic throw-out bearing. 5. I've got buckets, no help here either. Wow, not much help from me.
As far as the harness for the FI, I would go to an aftermarket unit. Ron Francis is one supplier. Unless your a good electrician or really understand the ins and outs of the stock harness, it's a lot easier to use the aftermarket units
Or you could be true to the H.A.M.B. view of being "traditional" and swap to a Carb and matching intake as you would be sticking to something you know how to work with and also over the long haul a whole lot less expense and modification would be involved.There is some tech info on the T-5 and clutch you may find useful here:http://www.fordmuscle.com/TechDepartment/transmission.php I would not mention the "F.I. and computer swap" on the HAMB main board it may get you in dutch with the "traditional" police.
2: The gas tank is totally different shape and would never fit. The easiest way is to use an external fuel pump then just plumb a return line. Some have plumbed the return line back in through the drain hole in the tank. On a 66 Fairlane I did I ran the return line into the neck of the tank. Aeromotive makes a nice pump deal for swaps with pump and fittings but it is a bit expensive for some people. A new harness would be nice but once again they can be expensive. A lot of this depends on your budget but I have used an original harness and next time I would just buy a new harness to save time.
I have the same plan for my car. You can buy a after market harness and computer for it. To run the motor you do not need half the smog **** that is there. You will need O2 sensors. Your motor will not run right if they are not there. The only thing I did niot check is the fuel pump. The car need a given amount of fuel pressure to run correct.
Just my humble opinion, but I don't understand the reasoning behind taking a new school engine and making it old school...why not just go old school to begin with. When you start removing all the components that have made them a reliable and economical motor, you lose alot of those attributes. I went 4.6 dohc, fuel injected with 4 spd electronic ******. The Ron Francis harness is made to work with the oem computer. If the motor you are planning on using is newer than 1996, you will probably have to deal with having the computer reprogrammed to eliminate the PATS system (p***ive anti theft). You can tell if the donor car had the PATS by looking at the ignition key..if it's got the chip in it, it's got the PATS. The best way to go with the fuel pump is an in tank system. In tank systems are less likely to have air locks in the lines.Check Tanks Inc. They make a neat adjustable setup and also offer a retrofit weld in recessed mounting 'box'.
Because when (if) a 302/5.0 breaks down, you can just pop over to the local NAPA and fix it. Same can't really be said for a y-block or flathead, etc. It's also a lot, lot, lot cheaper to get a good running 302 swapped in than it would be to find, buy, and rebuild something older. Just my $0.02.
If you want to use a late model engine and transmission read this thread http://www.cl***icbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224697&highlight=OBD+swap It's not cheap but not much more expensive and you can run a donor efi 302 and 4r70w transmission. I did my own modifications to the efi harness and just had him reprogram my computer. I've installed a 98 302 explorer driveline in my 54 Vicky and got 4 wheel disk brakes in the bargain along with 3.73 traction lock rear end. The only hard part was finding a shop locally to get the rear end housing shortened on one side and modifying a 55 gas tank to fit my 54. I used the 55 tank to get a reasonably priced in tank fuel pump set up. If I had to do it over I would probably consider a 99 or later efi set up in order to use a one line fuel set up. Ralph
the computer harness is actually simple to remove. you wind up with 2 powers one is batt+ the other is keyed + just a couple of grounds. take pictures if needed when removing it.
sacco I drilled the 98 cover for a dip stick and was not pleased with the result, housing was just to thin. I went to an earlier cover with the front dip stick, also used the earlier brackets to line up the pulleys. This made it necessary to fab a bracket for the crank timing which turned out pretty well along with mounting a timing wheel under the crank pulley . Hind sight is always great so if I had to do it over I would have just changed the oil pan to front sump and welded or brazed a tube to the side of the pan and used all of the 98 explorer front dress. On my other post I overlooked the fact he was not using an automatic. I still would use a late computer and harness for the simple fact it's easy to come by and cheap. Computers are 25.00 and harness's are 4.00 a ft at the local express pull and it's not 20 yrs old. Ralph
Thanks for the replies. I have elected to remove the EFI got with a carb for simplicity sake. I will post more as work continues.
I like how this group doesn't burn people for asking about EFI! Deeppurple52 is going with a 5.0 cheaper than rebuilding the yblock in the end? I ask you because I'm eyeing a '56.
Painless wiring has a 5.0 conversion harness but I'm going Coyote in my 52. 400 hp stock, you can't go wrong.
A lot less! We love the sounds of the Flatheads and the Y-blocks both are unique but parts cost border on highway robbery considering the fact that other than Mummerts Y-block parts most are old tech and old patterns from 50-60 years ago An SBF swap is easy and no special parts are needed to do it and replacement parts are all over the big box stores in case of a breakdown so you can cruise all you want without fear of being stranded.The bottom line is,How fat is your wallet? Hi-Tech will cost you big bucks as well as going Vintage it all comes down to what is affordable for you.
Keep the injection it's so nice for the car to start every morning. I took the whole engine and dash harness out of the donor mustang and hid it under the dash. As for fuel I tapped the return into the feed line it works great. I took a shifter out of an old tuck, that works pretty well. I would suggest hydraulic throw out, I keep a spare clutch cable in my trunk if that tells you any thing.
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