I agree with you guys and thank you. My hands are all busted and dirty with oil I cant remove. I mean, I dont mind that, my girl does but she doesnt pick on me, just to say I'd prefer it to seal first time and be done with it. I already looked around and I might get a sheet to do the whole thing. What thickness? 1, 2 mm I guess?
80 grit sand paper will remove the oil and dirt.if it does not get it all off no one notice with all the blood
I think 1/8" or 3mm would be correct. A stiff brush and Comet powdered cleanser in will get the gunk off your hands and out from under your finger nails.
Haha, guys this is gettin off topic, but let me just add to the cosmetics discussion that lemon juice cleaned my hands good. Well, I'm felling lucky 'cause nearby I found 3mm gasket cork for sale by square m (3square feet). A bit expensive (some 25$) but worth while. I'll have spare cork to make another 2 gaskets, so its ok. Tonight I'll probably be joining a mechanic 80 yr old friend that helps me when I'm in trouble so we can make the gasket togheter. He vividly advised againt the use of sealant alone. Its another oportunity to learn oldschool tricks on how to properly make a gasket. I have done a few but nothing this size. Thank you. Regards
I am happy he talked you into making gasket.you will have another thing on your list checked off.this is old school solution to not having the part available.
I wear disposable gloves most of the time otherwise my hands would be a lot worse than they are. Go-Jo hand cleaner works pretty well though.
1 my old mechanic friend looking through his tools, locating correct punch and dollies to correct my oil pan rail raised areas 2 the oil pumps filter after cleaning 3 the painted pan, cork gasket, new machined out plug and copper (heat softened) washer. Almost ready to go. I just have to finish cleaning the block. Gave up last night at about 1pm. Regards
He is Brodie. Most of his tools, including the vise and his impeccably clean and organized work bench were made by him as an apprentice at a local auto shop, where he started working on the forge, and that no longer exists. This is a specimen of a diyng breed, so I treasure every aspect of the time I get to spend there (not a lot), from the claw like hands to the knowledge he happily p***es away for free. He is now restoring the scooter he bought in his youth (a german Diana Khropp i think). There are three of these special guys I recurr to once in a while: the guy with the forge, this mechanic and the machinist. And I learn a lot. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the oil pump filter. Regards.
WOW people like those will be greatly missed when gone.you are wise in turning to them in time of need.rare to find people such as them in to-days throw away society.watching them work will stay with you the rest of your life
All true Barry. Imagine my satisfaction everytime he opens a drawer (correct?) and I see those old calipers, dials, gauges, just like the ones we look at on the old engine manuals regarding trueing head's surfaces and all on our cars, . Those hands and tools still belong to another time, better in some ways, worst on other (imagine a tooth ache in the 40's). Well, fast forward to present day and present concerns: Using the search tool regarding which oil to use is kind of like asking something to an elve on tolkien's lotr, he will never answer yes or no. So, excuse me but here goes: 20W50, yes or no? Consider compression a little above 6 equal on all 6 cyls, all stock., previous oil 15W50 diesel, valve tick present sometimes. Regards.
Rui, your 223 has a flat tappet cam with solid lifters so you need an oil that has sufficient ZDDP (zinc) included to prevent wiping out the cam lobes and lifters. Many of us use diesel oils over here for that reason; they still contain zinc while most gasoline engine oil formulations don't have it or don't have enough of it. I don't know if European oils are spec'd differently or in differnt terms than we use, but a web search will probably find what you need. If all else fails you may be able to find a zinc additive locally. The oil weight is less of a consideration with these old engines than the zinc content. The lighter the oil you can ge away with the better gas mileage you'll get.
Thanks Dobie. I had already read your input on this matter on other threads. Its in fact a major concern, so I thank you for reminding me and am sorry if you had to repeat yourself. 1000ZDDP right?
I can not add to what Dobie has stated.the valve tick is more than likely dirty lifter your cleaning pan will allow clean oil to hopefully cure that
Hey there Barry, thanks again for the concern and tip. I hope you're right. Its a tick that has always been present and keeps comin and going. After this oil pan task, Ill pull the rocker cover, maybe clean lifters, springs etc them a bit and see if I can embrace the task of adjusting valve lash. Dont know it its doable for me but I'll ask around then. Well, pan clean, degreased and painted. The block is all clean, still to be degreased on the contact surface. I''l do it the moment I get it all back togheter since old oil keeps dripping from the inners of the engine. I took the time to pull the flywheel inspection "pan", since I was cleaning it all didnt make sense no to do this small piece since its pretty much straight forward. It was a dirty mess since oil from the oil pan leaked on that spot and entered this inspection housing. Its all clean, all good, painted, ready for ***embly with a light sealant coat. BTW, on this six, with oil pan on the bench, one can get a really good view of how the fuel pump's arm should be positioned with the cam lobe. I must remember to get a picture of that view so others with the same rookie doubts I had can easily do the job. Regards
on the lifter tick my son has truck built by the General that has had a ticking lifter since new 10 years later still there and I have 2 others of same brand same tick all have over 200k.some times it does not hurt.these are hydraulic lifters though as opposed to your solid.there are a myriad of reasons for your tick but unless it becomes a constant tick you may never find the cause.the clean oil and filter with a new filter and oil change after a short time will hopefully cure it.one thing I used to do when changing oil that had the same sludge as yours was to add a quart of automatic transmission fluid to the oil in place of one quart of oil drive for a time around a 100 or less miles then change oil and filter.with new drain plug you installed the job will not entail the odyssey you had to endure with last one
OK Barry, I'll add the new oil today, along with a zinc additive and see what happens. Oils I can find dont meet the desired zinc quan***y. They'r far away from that, the majority stating no zinc at all. Yesterday I finished the job. Placing the pan didnt go well the first time. I layed a thin layer of sealer on the outside area of the rail and placed the gasket which fits perfectly. Did the same thing on the block (outside area), since this is what the engine manual recommends for such procedure. When I was placing the pan the gasket got held at piston n 6 and since I was looking at the front of the pan for clearance, the gasket moved and got off the pan. I tryed to place it correctly with my hands and it was a dirty sealant mess all over the place. Had to pull everything back again, clean the inners of the pan (which had sealant finger marks at this point) align the gasket and do it from the start. At second attempt all went smooth and placed it right away correctly. Finger tightened the bolts on the 4 corners of the pan (again as the manual indicates) and proceeded to do the same on the other 20 bolts. Snug every bolt by hand, then with the wrench, starting at the middle and proceeding towards each side (as manual states). Tightened it snug, not too much. Today I'll put the oil in and pray to our-lady-of-no-leaks. PS - I'm ge***ng paranoid thinking I left something inside the pan... damn.. I'm sure I didnt... Regards
if you removed all of your finger prints you can deny having touched it in case of anything left in there LOL
OK, this ordeal seems to have ended. The underside of the car is getting close to acceptable. No oil drips, fresh painted pan and flywheel inspection housing..and no oil drips. No oil drips, did I mention that? Thanks for the tips and help guys. This weekend I filled her up with 15W40 diesel, added stp oil additive. Cranked her, instant (!) fireup, let her warmup and went for a ride (some 10 kms), got back home left her runnin, and shut her down. No oild drips! Hehe. Fuel pump is delivering well, with no gas leaks. I did forget to take that shot of the lobe and pumps arm before closing it. Now I've got a leaking core freeze plug. Check out this next episode of my reliability struggle novel on the new thread I created. Regards.
The idea of a growing snowball been growing on my mind. Will it never stop?! I know that it is a part of the ride and it pays back to fix your car. It's rewarding, but sometimes frustrating tough.. Regards
Rui it is like government spending it never ends.the difference is it is yours it add's to your knowledge base and enjoyment when you complete the job
The Jalopy Journal
