Technical Fuel tank insulated coating ?

An electric fuel pump is not necessarily a high pressure system, there are plenty of electric pumps which operate at lower pressure. A regulator is needed to adjust the pressure from the pump down to the pressure the carb needs. It doesn't really matter what the primary output of the electric pump is (high/low), it will need a regulator before it reaches the carburetor. Some newer systems have returnless pumps. I'm not a fan of those. To me, I like a return because it allows a pump to have fuel flowing thru it all the time rather than pushing against something that is always resisting the flow. It allows the pump to be cooled by the fuel passing thru it.

 

i think your new steel tank already has an aluminium coating on it.
how low is it going to be - relative to the exhaust having to go up over the rear end tubes and out the back past the tank.
you can get embossed exhaust head sheild in sheets and fashion some sheilds.

does the mustang have a carburettor with a vent tube in it vented to the atmosphere.

 

Im running a stock cowl gas tank on a model A. Its a sunny day so out of interest I just took a laser temperature reading off the top surface. It was 158 degrees. I have no issues with vaporloc on the fuel. So not sure what you guys are seeing.

 

It wouldn't hurt to insulate the tank, but I would definitely insulate the fuel lines in the engine compartment. Insulation will slow the heat transfer, but won't stop it. Eventually the heat will make it through the insulation if it's exposed long enough.

I live at 5300' in Prescott, AZ and had a similar problem with my flathead powered '34 3W coupe when I was driving in stop and go city traffic. It would vapor lock until I could get it out of town on the highway. My solution was to solve two problems at once. I didn't like how long it would take to get it started after it sat a while, due to the pump having to pull fresh gas up to the engine, and the vapor lock issue. So mounted a small low pressure (5-8 psi) pump back on the frame rail close to the tank and ran a toggle switch under the dash powered off the ignition switch back to the pump. It isn't a bad idea to use a momentary switch either so you don't forget to turn it off. Now when I start the car after it's been sitting awhile, I turn the pump on until it starts and runs. Or if it starts to starve for fuel in traffic I turn the pump on to push some fuel through the pump into the carb. I did this on my flathead powered '37 Cabriolet too as soon as I bought it.

Here's an example of the pump I've been using. You can find the same pump on Summit for twice as much as you pay for them on Amazon. This ones a 6 volt for $26.18 and they come in 12 volt too.

https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Univer...dp/B07GNTMLVV/ref=psdc_15728151_t1_B08HQP833N

The 12 volt pump comes in three different pressure ranges for less than $19.00 or less.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZJK4CJ/ref=twister_B07RWHRMX6?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

A carb spacer never hurts either and I run them on everything up here. On four barrel carbs, I think Holley's do better than the Carter/Edelbrock carbs, due to how their float bowls are incorporated.