Full fendered model A Gasser build thread

Nice work. Looks like the truck was really solid; wish I was as lucky. LOVE the frame transportation!

Whats this master cyl. off of? Looks like an international part we had on my racecar at first. Single reservoir and dual outlets. Is it an international part?

Pretty slick,
Adam

 

it is of a '62 chevy truck. It works out good having the clutch and brake in the same unit, frees up a little room. plus got to love lifetime warranty from autozone...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/_/N-ixjyiZ8kn47

 

looking good so far.
just something to check out, see if you can remove the distributor with it that close to the firewall.
I had a friend that had to remove his engine to get his out when he developed an intake oil leak...

 

Diggin' it!

 

This is rad! Keep up the good work!

 

That is one of the things I checked, it is close but if I take the cap off first I can. might scratch a little paint getting it of but it is a driver. But I am stuck using only a mallory that isnt a big deal seeing as I have alot of them and parts but it will suck being on the side of the road somewhere with a bad dizzy and only a mallory will fit.

 

I'll be watching this one. Looking cool.

 

Glad to see the progress on here and first hand. Can't wait for the first shakedown run soon.-Weeks

 

awesome work!!!

 

Thanks for all the replies. Anouther rainy day here in so-cal so I am working on the A. I got my rear shock mounts done. These are just some mock up shocks but are the same kind I am using. I set them up to have two thirds compression and one third decompression. The rear end mounts are 1/4", a little over kill but it is what I had laying around and better too strong then not strong enough. The nuts are temperary untill I get some bushings with the same deminsions.



I aslo got my radiator in. it is a '65 mustang with three rows. It is a little tight so as much as I dont want to I might have to run a electric fan, there is about 2 inches in betwen the radiator and the pully but the fan will hit the rad. outlet. Its not too big of a deal as I am running full hood. I still need to make something for the rad. support rods to mount to.











Nest is to finish the ladder bars and slave cylinder mount

 

So you'll be using a hydraulic clutch, will you use the stock S-10 slave cylinder? When I think back on all the time I spent setting up my chassis this is making me a little crazy because I think I could have saved a ton of time and made a much cleaner assembly with this system. Looks great.

 

While you have the oppurtunity i would mount those shocks more upright, They won't be doing much at such an angle, Shocks are designed to work best upright, for every few degrees of lay over you lose an aweful lot of efficiency, hope this helps and keep the updates coming.

 

I will be using a '62 chevy slave cylinder because it is already made for the MC so I dont have to worrie about bore sizes and such. I could not find a early chevy bellhousing with the SC mount on it so I am just going to make the mount but no big deal.

 

Good point, better to hear from experience and fix now than after paint. I think I am going to drill a series of 1/2" holes to adjust it as I learn what works with the set up.

 

Looking really good.

 

Nice build. I like what your doing. I was gonna build my T coupe low and mean but I am now leaning towards the gasser look with the nose up in the air. Your thread is inspiring me.

 

Thanks good to hear, that is why I started the thread. I have a friend that comes over and says the front is too low for a gasser, I am not going for a donk gasser just a period competetion car. Most that I have seen are actualy close to level. Plan is a red chassis ,same colour as the engine, with a chrome and drilled axle and some more here and there with all stainless hardware except the main suspention wich is all grd 8, with white exhaust, fenderwells, and firewall. The body is staying in primer untill I get the funds to paint but it will be red someday also. The first pic of the sedan is about exactly what I am going but a truck of course. I dont care what anyone says I am painting the fenderwells front and back white, I think it looks bitchin

 

i personally think the white inside the fender wells is cool it brightens up the car .
cool I am enjoying it good luck

 

Those sedans both sit higher then your truck will , your right on the white fender wells after I have looked at a few older pictures now.-Weeks

 

That's what I am talking about. Not really a gasser but more of a drag coupe. With the T coupes everybody builds them too long and too low. I want mine to sit kind of high but not too high and the chassis as short as possible, with engine setback if I have too. I like the white fender wells, I think it sets the car off a little.

 

I finished all the fabrication on the frame and got the truck apart for paint. I did a search and couldnt find anything on thechevy truck master cylinders, does any one know or have a link that when I mounted it under the floor are both clutch and brake side identical? I heard some where that there is some valve in the brake side that I have to swap when mounting it under the floor?

Here is the finished frame ready to go to a buddies house for all the heavy important welding ,most of it is just tacked now. I am a welder by trade but I dont feel compfortable with my little buzz box on the heavy stuff. After that going to the blasters and for paint and reasmybly.



I already got the rear suspention apart painted and reasymbled. I started putting it together when the wife was at work and she wasnt too happy when she got home



The build is all down hill from here and should go pretty quick, hope to have it at march meets here at Fomosa this year.

 

I suppose the ladder bars or mounts will break in not time if you mount those straight. Front mounts should be very close together to allow sway. I did this one with large uniball as front mount below the front universal joint.

 

What an awesome build! Love the plans an execution. Great work.

 

The master should have a built in residual pressure valve an will be fine as long as it's four wheel drum. The only concern I'd have is that with it mounted in reverse it would now be on the wrong side. You may be able to swap it (assuming it is machined the same on each side) or you can remove it and install an aftermarket one in the line.

 

I can hardly wait to see this come together.

 

Thanks for the info. No big update but I got the frame all welded and grinded rubbed it down with grease and wax remover and got some primer on it and took a pic so I figured I would post it. this is no high dollar build or nothing so I am just rattle caning it with some high quality paint and leaving the body how it is for now. Just a poor boy taking pride in his car trying to build it as nice as he can within my budget and resorces, learning as I go. Might look a little ratty but it is better than some rich guy building a car to purposly look ratty.

 

love the way the trucks coming, but just a little tip the top cars of that era, from what I can see had the fender support chrome plated. This would look bitching against the white under fender though. As I said earlier i love the look and keep the updates coming.

 

Reindeer is very right about this, TAKE NOTE.

We all know how an antiroll bar works, two arms and a central torsion bar that twists to resist body roll.
Now take another look at your rear end and ladder bars, and try to figure out how the diff housing is going to twist when the body tries to roll.
It obviously cannot. But what IS going to happen is that something is going to break for sure.

 

I don't think you could say things will break for sure. It's a relatively light vehicle and I doubt he will be hitting the slalom course with it. Some rears also have thicker tubes-9"s/Danas, etc., unlike a completely stamped sheet housing-early Pont/Olds and Chevy. He also doubled up the rear brackets and set it up for Poly which could help.

One more note: Wrapping ladder bar brackets completely around the housing does a lot for preventing failures, especially on the completely stamped housings.

 

It is not the diff housing that is going to break !
But the ladder bars.

Give a five year old a coat hanger, can he snap it ?
Probably not, unless he can pull it apart with maybe 1,000 Lbs of force.
But let him slowly work it backwards and forwards maybe twenty times with little force.....
One busted coat hanger.

Not saying he is going to drive his rod at 200 MPH around corners and break his suspension. But driving down to the drug store and back at 30 MPH a great many times will probably do it.
It is called METAL FATIGUE.