Full manual 4L80E instructions

Attached is the first page of the Transgo 4L80E-3 FMVB instructions. I couldn't find it online anywhere, and I would have liked to look over the instructions before I shelled out $249.00 for the kit.

If anyone else is interested, let me know and I will scan in the rest of it (12 more pages)

I just got a 1995 4L80E from a motorhome, and will be putting it behind my blown 496 as soon as I get the kit installed. I will be using a modified stock converter with about 2800 stall speed.

Let me know if anyone wants to see the photos of the kit installation.

First thing I noticed in the instructions is that it doesn't say anything about the lockup function... I was expecting/planning on it working, I haven't read the entire thing yet, hopefully I can still use the lockup function.

 

if you don't use the lock up get a special converter made up or it won't last long with out having it there. you'll overheat the converter but it would take many miles for complete melt down!

 

My intention was a 2800+ stall speed with lockup using a toggle switch & timer in 4th gear only (with a brake pedal switch).

My reason for adding stall speed was more about idle load dump than torque multiplication, but I really wanted lockup for highway driving.

 

I'd be interested in that, I didn't see your attatchment tho...

 

It disappeared, I am not sure why.

 

First page again.

 

I'd like to see the rest of the instructions.

 

That first page is simply the cover. Does the kit include the complete valve body and va***e modulator? I'd be interested in doing this with the 4L60E going in my '48 Diamond T pickup, with the 350 TBI. If I could shift the truck manually, I could eliminate the bulky wiring harness, switch intake/TBI to a carb and use a conventional distributor. It would make the swap a little easier from that standpoint, it'll be hard hiding all that wiring and the ECU in the little Diamond T engine bay and cab.

 

A few more pages. It ****s that I can only upload a PDF that is 195K or smaller.

 

I've got a 500 Caddy that might go in a model A and was look for something to handle the torque.

 

TH400 with BOP. The 4L80E is much bigger, it really isn't worth the trouble unless you plan to drive a lot of highway miles. I am only building this because I burnt up my TH400, and I may run on the salt flats next year.

 

For those that don't want the full manual valve body, I used a setup from www.compushift.com in my tow vehicle. All you have to add is a TPS, and a few wiring connections. Very easy install, O/D and TCC work great, if you pony up for the control box you can change all your settings. Just a thought...

 

The Cool thing about the 4L60E and 4L80E electronic transmissions is that the shift solenoids are not pulse width modulated. All you have to do is ground the proper solenoid(s) in the right order and you have a full manual box. You Shift to Drive and then shift up and down with push ****ons. The Converter lock up is pulse width modulated so it takes some electronics. The line pressure solenoid defaults to max pressure if not connected. Transmission shops have had shift test boxes for years. You disconnect the trans computer harness and plug in the Box and manualy shift the trans. This would be great for Bonneville.

 

Overdrive is for sissies.

Stir it yourself, or deal with three gears. Unless you've got Leno cash for a custom operating system (tune) for the 4L80, or you're already on a GM EFI system, I wouldn't even fudge with it. There's simply way too many parameters and factors that go into operating those transmissions.

 

I also have a Doug nash torsion tube crash box for my next project, but the 4L80E comes first.

 

One note on the Transgo kit is the aluminum plugs for the separator plate.

The instructions are not very accurate on "filing down smooth" after you peen the plugs in place. Without a sanding disc on a die grinder this "filing" would take hours, and would result in lots of extra scratches in the plate. Perhaps if you don't have an air compressor you could get bye with a dremel, but if you don't have a compressor you maybe shouldn't be doing this type of modifications anyway.

 

Filing down the aluminum plugs is very easy, doesnt take hardly any time at all, as long as youre careful with how much pressure you put on the file you dont need to worry about scratching the plate.

a die grinder/sander would not be a good idea, because it would remove way to much material.

 

I guess I'm a *****. Put three hundred miles on my 4L60e yesterday on a "Pie Run" driving from the beach up to the mountains, and got over 20 mpg. Over ten thousand trouble-free miles so far...

 

I'm thinking you must live under a rock. A trans controller for the 4L80 doesn't cost millions. You can have one that is user programmable for about $800. Leno spends more than that just fueling his duesenberg.

Stir it my self? OK. My Muncie from Auto Gear has .86 overdrive in 4th.

I can name several other OD equipped manual transmissions, too. "Overdrive is for sissies" sounds like something I'd hear at the Saturday night cruise from they guy wearing a mullet in his rusty Camaro with 4.56 gears. Funny how that guy never leaves the city limits and has all kinds of excuses for missing the grudge races outside town. "my car over heated", "I don't like winding it up on the highway", "I hear my mommy calling me for dinner"... Next time I'm feeling my manhood in jeopardy, I'll leave it in 3rd.

 

I put a 4L80E in a turbocharged Lincoln (don't ask, it is not H.A.M.B. friendly, and you'd kill me). I used the unit from TCI. It is made by F.A.S.T.

It is super easy to use and program, via a laptop. The harness just plugs right in. It monitors boost levels, and modifies the shifts and torque converter lockup based on it. It even drives a motor to run the original mechanical speedometer.

It has two shift modes, and can be shifted manually, via paddles or ****ons.

It was under a Grand, with the harness, TPS, and shipping.