Full Oil Filter for Flathead

What cam you running? 75lbs cold is great. What. At warm?

 

???

 

Keep in mind I did not start this thread and the engine I tested is not the engine the mentioned in post 1. I just posted on the thread to share information!!! ========== I have a Isky cam in the engine I tested. I can't get the engine to operating temp as I have no radiator on the run stand, at least not yet as I have four more flat-heads to build and test run >>>>.

 

Any of the byp*** style systems MUST use a restrictor fitting other wise you get a giant drop in pressure. Does not matter if you use the original canister or a modern spin on they both need the restrictor ,normally a .062-1/16 orifice.

 

I agree John. I had been trying to tell my customer this for three months but he was and is still in disbelief on the subject. I'm just glad the magazine article came out to back up my thoughts >>>>>

 

So John and Engine Pro, does this mean you DO recommend byp*** filtering, but only if s restrictor of sorts is used?

How/what/where? I have a full byp*** kit from Red's Headers. The block is already drilled and tapped. Where would this restrictor go?

And EP, thanks for the great info!

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if I were going to run an oil-filter I would drill and tap the block at the so called flat pad, then enlarge the horizontal oil port to 3/8 pipe to allow access to tap and plug the oil port on the inboard side of the vertical feed. Then install the gauge in the vertical feed port, feed the filter off of the horizontal feed port and route the oil back into the engine at the newly tapped flat pad spot. This will keep the oil under pressure at all times and will result in No Pressure Loss. And once again I have to Thank Street Rodder Mag for printing the article confirming my thoughts !!! >>>>. PS I want to thank Joe Abbin, Phil Goller, and Mark Kirby for there input in the article !!!

 

I understand much better now, thank you! I may reconsider the full flow thing, since the engine is freshly built and I don't want shavings in there. Maybe I'll plug those holes and just change my oil frequently...

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if you run the stock type filter it would require a restrictor at the inlet side of the filter to keep the pressure up. 0.060 orfice >>>>.

 

In post #37 above, is there a restrictor pictured somewhere in the illustration? Should there be? I have one of the Speedway beehive coolers/filters that I haven't installed yet. I haven't even looked in it to see if it's intended to be a filter also. Is this thing a mistake for me to use?

 

if you click on the pic to enlarge the view you will see a "grub screw" this acts as a plug to keep the oil from just going in a circle back to the filter. The entire point is to either keep the oil under pressure or restrict the oil flow to the filter to keep the oil pressure up. I havn't used a speedway filter kit so I can't advise you on that >>>>.

 

I was under the impression that the original by p*** type canister filter is a much finer filter media and wasnt intended to be used as the full flow filter, is this not true?

 

That Oct. Street Rodder article is just in time, and very interesting.

 

That looks to be a FULL flow conversion, NO restrictor used. Restrictor fitting are ONLY used on byp*** style filter systems. And yes the filter media was normally finer on the byp*** filter elements as they did not need to allow for full flow p***age of the oil.

 

Wouldn't the restrictor go on the return line, where the filtered oil (hopefully with no particulates) p***es?

 

Really doesn't matter but AIRC all the OEM installations I've seen the restrictor was in the feed line side.

 

Maybe a bit more explanation of the diagram would help.

The port (riser) on the left side of the diagram is coming from the oil pump.
Normally the oil would then be routed (crossed over) to the right port, (the top of the oil galleys) then feed to the rest of the engine bearings.

In the modification, the plug (grub screw) blocks the cross over. The filter (full flow) is connected to the original outlet from the oil pump and returned (filtered) to the right port. (some engines used this port for the oil pressure sending unit); if your engine doesn't have the second port (where the new sending unit is attached) it can be "T'ed" to the filter inlet.

 

Thanks Dave !! I'm guilty of thinking everybody thinks just like I do >>>>.

 

Part of the confusion in this thread is STOCK, vs. MCF vs. Street Rodder versions.

Stock took a small amount of oil, (by way of a restrictor hose) sent it through a fine filter element, and returned the filtered oil to the pan. This was to keep oil pressure up; because if the oil was sent directly to the filter then back to the pan, you would never get any pressure!

Blocking off the block port, (just make sure the block hasn't been modified) and the pan port will not cause any problems. Just keep an eye on the oil color.

MCF (Motor City Flatheads)
This version takes the output of the oil pump from the bottom of the pump. (a special adapter is used and the modified pump no longer will pump up)

It's then piped out the side of the pan and connected to the filter adapter.
(they provide a PH8 Fram filter)
The output of the filter is then connected to the back of the block. (best location; pressure sending unit opening) There are NO restrictions in ANY of the hoses.

The Street Rodder version is shown above. #37 and it's self explanatory.

 

Yes, you can. The oil going to the filter exits the engine through a fitting with a metering orfice, goes through the filter and drains into the pan. It is not returned to the oil galley.

Bob

 

I am curios about something, I removed the stock fuel pump from my 50 8ba motor and put an electric pump in its place. Did I have to do anything about a bushing to keep the oil pressure up? I am still using the stock filter with a tee for pressure gauge that has the restrictor in it. If so, is there a picture of what I need to look for so that I know if I need to fix anything? Where is the bushing located?

 

Saw the post about making sure the oil filter lines on the MCF system are hooked up properly and I second that advice: I have been running an MCF system on my 59L for 9 years and that exact oversight cost me a rebuild. I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to what I was doing and started the engine with the lines hooked up backwards, took it for a drive and noticed my oil pressure was erratic. Got back home and saw what I had done and re-did the lines but the damage was done and a few months later I was rebuilding the engine because a rod bearing gave up. Since then I've put 5000+ miles on the motor with that system and no problems. Also, the filter did it's job when the bearing went; there was lots of metal in the pan and in the filter but the engine was clean. Lastly, I run just an electric fuel pump but I just left the pump rod in the motor even though all you need is the bushing. Makes me feel better.

Rich

 

The bushing being referred to; is the one below the fuel pump just above the camshaft. It guides one end of the fuel pump push rod that rests on the rear lobe of the camshaft.

If you remove the push rod that actuates the fuel pump and the bushing, and DON'T plug the hole;
you will experience a serious drop in oil pressure.

 

Resurrecting an old thread here because I learned a LOT from it. Thanks fellas!

Another question (because I'm working on my car at this very moment) is what to do with the hole in the side of the block that USED to be for oil return. I think it feeds a main bearing, but should now be plugged. Can someone verify that before I cook my engine?

Using the full flow conversion from Reds Headers.

 

It is simply a drain hole back to the crankcase. Plug it with a 1/8 NPT plug.

 

Thank you Jack!

For anyone interested I've figured out a way (at least I think I have) to disguise the full flow system inside the original canister. The full-flow is just too ugly for me with its big hoses and remote filter mount! Wish me luck!

Sent using the NEW Droid HAMB app from atop my toilet.

 

Thanks for dragging this one back up to the top Daddio.

I've been thinking about this conversion for quite a while. I never liked the idea of flexible lines inside the oil pan, I know the MFC line is only only short, but with a big spinning crank nearby there is always the possibility of something going amiss.
Also with these testimonies of kinked and twisted hoses blocking off oil supply I started looking elsewhere and came up with this:
http://www.flatheadspeedandmachine.com/products.html
I ***ume these guys are still in business?! I think I'll end up with the half kit from them.

How did you manage to disguise the modern filter?
You would have to mount the remote oil filter fitting inside the old canister. possibly use one of those small filters like the one below?
I think using hard lines would help everything look a bit neater too.

 

Yes show us!! Thanks Pete

 

Installed a MCF set up in a 59 motor for a friends '33 Coupe almost 20 years ago. No problems.

 

Okay guys, mines going together now. It's not anything too special really, just using a little hot rod ingenuity to make **** look right, but perform better. I hate to say it, but I'm going to hold on to my ideas for the next tech week. I might be a top 100 contender, you know.

However, I'm more than happy to bounce ideas around if you'd like, just PM me.



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