Technical Fuse Box ACC Question

looks like I'll have to still use the ignition switch to power the aux. fuse box relay.? Here's what is currently on the ignition switch: Air Bag relay power wire, 200 watt bluetooth amp remote wire, A/C and the electric fan relay. need some advice regarding the best wiring options using the 3 circuit Painless Fuse Panel. Can I run some of these on the same circuit or should they be all on separate ones? Thanks as always.

 

Read this article:
https://watsons-streetworks.com/a-current-topic/

It tells how to wire the relay for your accessory fuse panel, using the ignition switch accessory pole to trigger the relay.

 

You have four accessories in this discussion.
Which ones have an on/off switch?

These are all high amp draw a accessories. Which ones are currently controlled by a relay?

Do any of them have a fuse between the ignition switch and the accessory?

 

airbags and fan both have relays and all accessories have fuses.

 

none currently are switched, but I 'd like to switch the airbags, so I can start the car without airbag compressors kicking on at the same time.

 

running a electric fan (18.5 amps) due to limited space, new motor had took up more real estate up front and it sits lower. So would you keep the fan on the ignition then? Just to be clear, the airbags and amp are being powered straight to the battery. Airbag relays are on the ignition and the wire for the amp to ignition is just the remote wire ( to turn amp on). The amp fuse rating is 15 watts and it's 400 watt amp not 200 as mentioned before. The Painless Aux. Fuse Box is rated to 70 amps.

 

Painless Fuse Block 70 amps total.
Kenwood Amp approx. 4 amps
Fan is 18.5 amps
(2) Air Tech Compressors 19.5 amps each
Fuel Pump 4.5
A/C Unknown (Vintage Air knock off)

 

Seems 70 should be ok. I doubt you will be running compressors and fan at the same time.
Are the compressors 18.5 for both? Or each?

 

For each accessory, use some type of dashboard switch for on/off or to trigger a 30/40 amp device relay, if the switch can't handle the load.

Use a fused feed from the accessory fuse panel to power each device through it's 30/40 amp relay.

 

18.5 each, are the relays drawing that much? If I can leave something on the ignition switch, what should that be? Thanks again

 

Looks like the fuel pump and amp have the smallest current draws. Is that correct?

 

Here is an add-on panel to add more circuits, if needed. The block hook together, side by side.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30002

 

Yes

 

I got this in today. Instructions say to tap the orange wire to a ignition only fuse . Now I need to go back to the ignition AGAIN. I think running the orange wire, fuel pump and amp on the ignition would still be ok?

 

I had a push fan ran on a switch and the mechanical fan, after the engine swap I added the push fan due to limited space. I could switch the relay but knowing me I'd forget to turn it on.

 

Does the orange wire trigger (turn on) the relay? If so, it would go to the ignition switch.

Which wire send power to the relay activating the three fuses?

 

Have you read the article linked in post 33 above?

 

Here is my current game plan:
Ignition Switch - Orange Ignition Wire to Aux. Panel
Painless Aux. Fuse Panel- (1) Fuse Electric Fan 18.5 Amps (relayed), (1) Fuse Heat/A/C 20 amps, (1) Fuse Kenwood Amps 4 amps, Fuel Pump 4.5 amps
On/Off Switch- relays for Airbag Compressors controlled by switch powered by fuse box.
Please let me know your thoughts on this, thank you.

 

yes, I did, thanks

 

The fuse panel relay switch should be wired as explained in the article.

What you suggest for your plan would probably work, but think about it this way:
All your hot/battery circuits are fed out of the original fuse panel.

Do you think it would make sense to expand the new accessory panel so all the accessory circuits can be fed from it?

 

I maybe confused about what your saying, but this fuse panel comes hardwired with a relay. so it would be ignition to relay (orange wire) to the aux fuse panel. Do you think the circuit for the airbags is ok, obviously this would be a constant 12v but switched, I just have to remember not to leave it on due to a small air leak.

 

Yes, the ignition switch should trigger the relay that powers the accessory fuse panel.

Beyond that I would want all the accessory items powered by the accessory fuse panel (and not the ignition switch). It will make future troubleshooting and any accessory additions easier, and will result in a better finished product.

Yes, it may be a little more difficult initially than to use the ignition switch as a shortcut.

Most aftermarket wiring kits include a fuse panel that has some battery circuits and some accessory circuits. I'm just trying to head your thinking that way, but if course you don't have to do it the way I've suggested.

I hope this helps.

 

yep, helps a lot, thanks for your input.

 

I see some of my confusion. I thought you were ordering Painless 70114.
It looks like you received 70203.

What kind of instructions came with your new panel?

 

crap, sorry it is the 40114, grabbed the wrong screenshot

 

Hopefully you meant 70114?

Add on Painless 30002 and you have seven accessory circuits, enough for all your current needs, all the fuses in one location.

 

Wow, I’ll blame it on the time change, yes 70114!

 

Would you consider adding Painless 30002? The blocks click together.

You would have to wire the add-on block. You can copy the prewired block. Do you think you would be able to do that?

Then you would have seven ignition operated, fused circuits.

 

Any update?

 

Later this week, can't seem to get to the garage right now