When cars of that era saw the short tracks and bullrings, the rust holes got patched like that or with sheet metal and rivets. Nice project, when something pops up on the hamb I'm not interested in, or don't agree with I move along.
Got a few things done today, welded in the the 3 of the 5 point harness connections as the two factory seat belt lap belt bolt I will re-use for the lap belt portion of the 5 point harness. Pulled the passenger door off and started the minor body work littlle small rust pin holes and a small corner rust spot silver dollar size. Got everything ospho acid, then used some quality filler from NAPA $35 a can but sands easy. Got the gauge pod, ash tray, speaker grille, and door and rear window garnish trim painted satin black like the race car had. The dash will also be sprayed satin black less glare. Got both sides of the door about 90% complete and left with some spray bomb Rustoleum primer for now. Going our of town mid week for the holidays when I get back I will spray the door in 2 k gray primer. Also test fitted my new gauge set up in the dash pod before I painted it the kit is pretty cool from Boese Engineering. Comes with the center polished billet aluminum 4 gauge pod for 2 1/16" gauges. the Fuel /water temp orignal location are replaced with a tach and speedo 3 1/8" . they offer various gauge types classic, retro etc. these are Autometer gauges. The billet center will hold 4 gauges / fuel which works with Ford sending uint / Amps / Water temp / Oil pressure. Also includes two greel mini LED's for turn signals and one red one for the generator light. The kit with shipping was $495.00 looks way cool if you at there site they have some images in a dash pod for a visual. Regards
Back from the holidays visiting my Parents in South Texas. Got back Saturday started back on the car Monday Dec. 31. We started building the exhaust build first of all we had to cut off the very old and rusty dinky exhaust. Cut off the exhaust flanges to weld on the parts we picked up, used a couple of 90 degree elbows from Advanced Auto Parts, purchased a 8ft fence post from Home Depot ID = 2 3/8" its thick walled and galvanized (wont rust). had a few spare pieces of pipe from the wagon exhaust build to cut up for the down pipes. The driver side was the hardest due the cast iron header outlet took about an hour on and off our back laying on the ground (no lift sitting on jack stands). We pieced it together both sides welded the down pipes to clearance the crossmember then straight back. The exhaust pipes I used a drive shaft 3 1/2" ID with a taper at the u-joints. Cut off the u-joints and split the drive shaft in two about 3 ft long. We pitched them at an angle to just clear the quarter panel. We re-used the hangers and welded two bolts onto the frame so we can drop the exhaust each side with 4 bolts. I chose not to cut the frame thru exhaust or qtr. panel, it looks low since the larger tires are not on there yet they will lift the car up about 3-4 inches. Yes we have no mufflers and this exhaust sounds good almost like a Race Car but not as high picthed or annoying just deep rumbling my buddy was blown away when he heard it. Parts list - 2 flange gaskets - $10 8" fence post - $16 90 degree exhaust pipe peices $18 2 - pipe hanger clamps cut up for the threads & nuts - $10 1/2 can of black and silver paint (had it already) Wire flux core already had it. Time to build, less part pick up and measure 2-3 times cut once about 3-4 hours. Total cost to build less than $60, I gave my buddy $75 for his time. Not a bad investment plus we did it ourslelves total satisfaction. Also added the roll bar pipe thru the passenger floor board that is welded to the frame. It is the bar on the right side of the driver seat it looks like the real race car set up. Thanks for looking
Hey , I am glad to see you guys doing the stock car theme, I am presently building a 66 chevelle ,nascar style street / track car, as soon as I can figure out how post pics, I will start a build thread on hamb , is 66 too new for this type of thread? thanks
Got some news from my contact at Spectre Performance that the company was sold staying Spectre Performance, but they are restructuring so my original "BatWing" air cleaner build is not going to happen. So I took lemons and made lemonade, I had the upper an lower pieces cut out in aluminum a coupld a years back on my 65 Galaxie build but never built it. So I spent the weekend piecing it together, cut a 2 1/4" wide strip of galvanized metal cut two pieces about 26" in length , picked a 3 foot aluminum L bracket angle from home depot, some flush mount screw, washers, nuts. Fabbed up all of the pieces drilled lots of holes and put it together. Sealed it all in on the outside with JB Weld then started to clean it up with a layer of bondo. The cutout holes are designed to accept a MrGasket 2 1/4 chrome air cleaner lid and base. The base will be pop rivetted to the lower portion of my Bat Wing air cleaner box, the air filter goes inside, then the top lid seals it all in. The lid and Bat Wing assembly will be painted a textured satin black. Still have to cut a few notches to clear the lower assembly over the Holey Carb, and then start cutting holes in the cowl area to build the air box to air cleaner assembly just like the race car. I think I did a pretty good job on the Bat Wing it looks damn close to the Original Holman Moody BatWing air cleaner and it clears the hood when it is shut. When I get it all together I will record all the specs and dimensions so far got about $60 in it, Aluminum pieces, parts and New Air Cleaner assembly. It will look the part, also got my new metal gauge pod cut out, went with a full race style set up like the race car and I will not use the original dash pod assembly
Need some help with identifying a graphic on the Original Dan Gurney race car. I have a link to a few pictures the one I need which I cannot find a close up it is the one on the rear sail panel pillar afetr the rear windows. http://www.rmauctions.com/featurecars.cfm?SaleCode=MO10&CarID=r306&fc=0 It appears to ne two tone blue and gray or black but I cannot make out the graphic. All of the other images I have found close ups of to replicate when painted except this one. No rush as I am months away from paint but needed to know as to be prepared when these are created. Thanks very much for any detail pictures of this image would be helpful.
Updated information on the build, I picked up some Siliconizer from Home Depot and coated my floor pans with a few coats its cheaper than the bedliner kit and and I can prime and paint it. Its a good sound deadner for cheap>>>>>> Got my new gauge cluster pre fitted and drilled the mounting holes and turn signal led holes. Got it primed and painted satin black. Alos got my Bat Wing air cleaner assembly completed, layed a few coats of undercoat on it, then three to four coat of VHT satin black with texture 300 degree paint over it, the body and the lid wchic I scuffed and painted black no chrome on this ride. Still have to cut into the firewall cowl for the cold air induction for the air cleaner assembly. Its progressing well hopefully I will paint the dash satin black and then get the cab ready for my panels for the package tray, etc. Like to get it in primer.
Well some new updates for those who are following the thread. My computer I though bit the bullet but I pulled and re-seated all the card and it came back to life. Took Friday off for a long 4 day as Monday is a hoilday at our company. Picked up some wire, loom wrap solder and my box of connectors and started the assembly (about 4 hours taking my time and soldering connections for good continuity). Linking all of the light circuit wires and Ignition, then running the wires for the sending units. Also instaled the LED turn signals & generator light. I think the cluster came out good looks race car to me...... Saturday starting fabbing my door card and rear panel rear seat cover up panels using my 4x8 sheet off Fiberglass sheet smooth side out I beleive the sheet was about $35 still need another one as the package tray was more than what I had left. Got the rear window panels cut out and pop riveted then layed down a layer of siloconizer around the edges the tops will have the factory trim panel with fuzzies for a tight seal. Got this all done anf then today went to the local junk yard looking for a set of horns and third brake light for my back window (extra safety. Good score two horn assembly out a 80's Buick very loud ($5.00 for the pair).Removed a third brake light LED very long out a 2009 Cadilac its the trunk lid unit of course I took my jump box to test these items before purchase the light was $3.50 thats a steal, I will build a L-bracket to mount it up high in the rear window and tap into the brake light wiring, after that got the cab wrapped and prepped for primer. Layed two coats of 2K urethane primer, could not do the package tray area yet until I create and install the panel cover and then tape up the glass. Also got my hood pin holes drilled and test fitted my hood pins its ready to go. Thanks for looking
More work completed on the car, created the firewall cowl cutout for the home made Batwing air cleaner so I can model it like the original race car set up (true cowl induction). Well measured a few times, then high speed cutting wheel made the leap and cut out the sheet metal. Once I cut it I added some fiberglass to make sure the seam would not leak into the cab. Next took a flat piece of galvanized sheet metal cut out the width and lenght to build the cowl to air cleaner piece. Tack welded it together and positioned it into the cowl cut out with the BatWing to make sure it was lined up, once I was satisfied I started the body puddy filler to mold it in at the top so it looked smooth. Sanded it down layed soem sandable primer and then let cure over night, installed the Batwing to very fitment and clearance looks good so far I am hoping the hood clearance will not be an issue but I have carb spacer that I can modify to compensate for the clearance. Not to shabby for a home made air cleaner and cowl induction cut out with basci hand tools and left over materials. Little money spent on this and It wil make the race look even more period correct. Thanks for looking.
Tony, and Mean Gene: Somewhere in my old files I have a pic of a white '63-1/2 Fastback, with Holman/Moody graphics all over it, taken at the old H/M plant. The car sits slightly HIGHER than stock, has wide steel wheels all around, with huge Firestone Daytona (or Darlington) Stock Car tires. All the Nascar Fords I remember were lowered...
Thanks for the feedback, my PC crapped out and had to get a new harddrive lost alot of small stuff but had back up pictures on my memory stick. I did find a closer image of the rear sail panel graphic with the exception of the actual icon / image /graphic contained with in it. The graphis is like a boat pendant shape top half states "Power by FORD" The bottom half states: Engine & Foundry Devision what i cant see is the seal / image /looks like a crown or something like it it was there banner for that department of Ford. This graphic was soley on the Dan Gurney car only I have not seen it on any other Galaxies from 63 63 1/2 or 64 and later. Got the car mostly in primer now got alot of qtr panel finish work. Broke down and purchased a 60 gallon 4 HP standup compressor, new hoses, fittings, big and small moisture seperators and filters so make sure no water comes out of my paint gun. Getting close to laying in some paint in the cab, got my new wheel from Summit due to the wrong one previously sent, got to paint it also. I will provide more images this weekend.
Well some updates from this weekends work, cut out two aluminum panels for the rear rackage tray and pop rivetted them in, also started detailing the motor are just some satin black and som basic cleaning. Did some more body work on the quarter panels and rockers. Went ahead and made the leap to start spraying some color in the rear seat / back window area. Only had about a quart 1/2 of paint and materials so I could only apply some thin coats. Got two more to go especially the roof man it was a bear getting to the back area to spray due to the roll bar and me being tall. Well the color is good cant wait for a few more heavy coats then I will move forward to the front of the cab a little at a time . Getting ecited about finishing the cab of the car.
Updates (March 1st) took Friday off as the weather will be to cold to paint Sat/Sun. Got the rest of the cab prepped and went to my local paint supply shop and picked up some more materials gallon of Paint/ some reducer/harder. Mixed some paint up and went to town with my HVLP gun and touch up gun for tight spaces. Not perfect the roof and roof line around the roll bar are apin in the ass to paint. Not so con concerned about the roof and a protion of the roll bar will be wrapped in foam roll bar padding. Got the trunk layed in 2K primer and them layed down two heavy coats of paint. Todays event will be painting the dash board ratlle can Black semi gloss Rustoleum.
The teaser, painted the dash last night, the pedal rods and column. Today I wen out to the local you pull it junk yard and pulled a few battery cables to build my ground kill switch using the existing dash hole next to the column for the vent pull. Installed the kill switch to disable the ground no power at all. Next big event is wiring up the new JEGs toggle on and push button start assembly, then the gauge pod assembly. In my welding of the knee bar I did not create enough gap for the ash tray to slide in so i will cut out the rivet heads and epoxy the cover onto that slot, Thanks for following the build getting close to laying down some paint when the weather warms up.
She is in paint yippeee Took Thursday and Friday off to start the final priming. Got her sprayed in two coats of 2K gray primer, then a 2 coats of urethane white sealer primer. Lots of masking and heavy lifting. Well the NAPA off the shlf brand Wimbelton White I guess must have been old stock when I purchased it about 4 months age. I had it shaken up, when I opened it up and it looked bright white so I sprayed it the first coat had a few runs so I let the paint cure and wet sanded the runs about 6am Saturday, then layed a second coat same issue something abouth the paint did not lay down good more runs wetsanded and ready for the next layer but ran out of paint. The bttom of the can had a 1 inch layer of hardened material I bet it was just old batch. Went back to NAPA and purchased another Gallon this time when I opened it the paint was correct off white Wimbelton White, mixed up a batch and painted the whole car and doors, trunk lid, hood. Sunday everything cured got the hood & trunk lid on and set my hood pins and and cables for the pins. Got the gauge pod installed this evening about 4 hours of wiring and soldering, the led turn signal lights are not flashing yet they stay on due to all of the lights not being wired up yet. Installed the dash delete plates and will wrap the orignal steering wheel tomorrow with black electrical tape just like the race car had. The bad thing we insatlled the seat and the damn Vyinl Black paint is cracking like crazy Duplicoat doesnt work even when I preped it and layed down a prep spray so I may have to get a vyinl seat cover in black so the gray does not show thru no cash for black reupholstry. Got a quote on a good old school pinstriper /sign painter who specializes in race car graphics, he will hand paint all of the original graphics like the real car for about $500 not a bad deal. The pictures where not that good my good camera was at work so my crapy camera was not that good. Was going to install the rear tires but the shock studs broke lose so now I need new shocks oh joy so it sits on jack stands.
New images, took some better picture this morning and this evening got the steering wheel wrapped, installed added the hub pad for the steering wheel. Got the roll bar padding installed looking good. Alos added my panoramic rear view mirror looks good and gives me a great view. Its coming along.
The Jalopy Journal
