Maaaan... that thing is double-throw-down bitchin! That'd be so fucking cool to jump on the highway in and just listen to that big FE eat up the miles! That'd be a kick-ass road-trip car: loud, dirty, rowdy, Spartan... You'd be a rock star every where it goes. -Brad
Man, you are doing a great job with it. I bet it's going to be a blast to drive around in it. I just picked up mine and am trying to decide how to build it. I really like the idea of doing git up like yours but want to have more creatures comforts so will probably not go that route. I want the car to handle good but have the conforts to be able to drive it anywhere all day long. I posted another thread about mine but wanted to compliment you on your build.
Well Wednesday I got the TACH back from Autometer they sent me a brand new one no charge man those guys are great. Got her installed Thursday evening and she works fine glad I can now see my RPM's. Today I started playing around with the brake lines and fittings, I hate having to make new lines they never are easy to manually bend and the bending tool is not really that great either, spent about 3-4 hours bending and flaring still have to finish the rear master cylinder line to the proportioning valve, I only have the Master Cylinder set in place to make sure my lines are good, tomorrow I will bench bleed it and install then hook up the lines, I will have to wait on the bleeding till my buddy comes over to assist just been monsoon weather since Thursday, today was real wet. So its coming along hoepfully I can have them done tomorrow, no test drive till it dries up early next week I hope. I may do some black painting under on the rocker /floor pan area lots of overspray. Thanks for following the build
Not to thread highjack, but this car is in my neighborhood. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964...reet_Legal_&hash=item4ac3e0d9f1#ht_844wt_1051
Green Rodz, thats a cool car nice build but as he stated in his add its kind of meant for a Museum or used only in vintage race drives, unless some one buys it overseas to actually race it. My pockets aint that deep for an original 427 side oiler motor, long tube cast iron headers ($1600) and / NASCAR Toploader etc. Mine is keeping in line with the purpose build a street-able Stock car with the looks, sounds and character and I can drive it on the road anytime also at signinificant less dollar amount. My idea was to show people you could build one whether its a Ford it doent matter but you could do a build with resaonable amount of funds and be able to drive it. I hope your freind sells it for the 70K its a great looking car
Yeah, I know. I just posted it for you to put a smile on your face. If not for the money, that car WOULD be a daily driver in my book
Man, does this bring back the memories. The early to mid-sixties stock cars were the baddest of the bunch (the '63 1/2 Fastback the best looking, IMHO) It took a real man to wrestle one of these 4000 lb plus beasts all afternoon, especially on a road course, like Riverside (WITHOUT power steering). Very difficult to build one of these with the "Build on a Budget" theme and come close to the mark, but you have done so.......Congrats!
Some images of the Dual MC conversion, the lines going to the Master Cyliner and pressure switch are loose as i still need to recut threads for the pressure switch to fit the three way connector for the front brakes. So I cannot run fluid thru yet until the system is all connected. Forgive the layout lots of bends to put all of the lines into the new 5 way proportioning valve. Like I said got about $60 in parts when I get done I will clear coat everything to minimize any potential rust. Maybe tomorrow I will get everything tightened up and bleed. Added two images of the window slats /keepers to give you a better view of those. Getting excited about painted graphics
This is such a cool car, I like these kind of build very much. What is the seat out of? I like the look of the old ecolone van seat that smokey used in his old cars. But this looks better, in the sense of comfy. Thats how a Real stock car looks, at least to me.
volvobrynk The original seats in the Holman Moody Galaxies I believe even into 65-66 were Econoline Van Seats heavly padded with both left and right arm rest built into them for the long races. In 65-66 at least the Fred Lorenzen model they added a head rest pad external from the seat for more head support I guess. I have seen some "clones" with the Galaxie XL buckets they look good but the correct ones were the Econoline Van seats which in todays world are almost unobtainable, ifyou find one they are beat to crap. I liked the higher back bucket seat, I kept in the VAN world and it had to be vyinl so could paint it black with SEM black paint. I got a pair of these ($40) a local u-pull-it out of mid 90's Dodge work van you find these all the time they had at least 3 of the vans to pull seats, the pair I got driver side had a tear in the seat portion, the passenger side was perfect. The benefit is the come with the sliders , they look high in the van due the the welded in mounting plates, so when you put them on the floor of the Galaxie they are LOW so you can build your own mounting risers. Mine were easy to build NO BUCKS backyard inginuity, had an old metal bed frame with the feet that you usually put your roller wheels on, they are about 3-4" high cut them off they already have holes in them to mount the seat studs and nuts. Cut each riser, tack welded it layed a board across to make sure it was even, did them one at a time so they were generally level. The seat can actually slide whcih allows for long /shorter leg drivers. I like DIY and cheap. Hope the infor was helpful.
Well took the day off today to do some little stuff I have been putting off. I have been struggling with the gas pedal issue, I have a brand new re-pop factory long one that bolts to the floor but it aint going with the race vibe. So I had a set of aluminum blocks fabricated for a Cougar project to lower the suspension I never used them so I took one tap some new holes with two aluminum brackets wrapped around the pedal rod added my srcews in countersunk holes a couple of nuts and I got a cool gas pedal. Since the car is still a driver I kept hthe ebrake but with the rol bar down pipe the pedal was not easy to depress in an emergency or to just park, so I unbolted it cut out a few spacers out of a piece of pipe to push the pedal assembly out 3" so it now is accessable to push down. I alos installed the high beam floor switch and did some touch up paint in the rear seat area. I got the dual MC all bolted up, but still waiting to bleed them, maybe this weekend, my painter guy may get to my graphics next weekend after I get back from business trip out in Texas.
foolthrottle, nice ride the Chrysler 300's are super rare now to build I have pictures of one the real ones from the Amelia Island Concours DeElegance a few years back. Had the leather hood straps I think it raced the Mexico Rally back in the 50"s was a cool looking car. Its kind of strange how I got the itch to build one of these as I was born in 1963 and did not even grow up around or see any Stock Car or Nascar as kid or teenager. Something just apealed to me about the look of the early race cars those drivers were super tough they built NASCAR, but today the cars are freaking TEMPLATES , brands dont mean shit, its all about the sponsors and MONEY $$$, as it aint a real car and you dont race on Sunday and buy on Monday anymore. I like old school steel, big chrome bumpers loud freaking exhaust and keeping the memories alive for those who lived that era I hope am doing there memories justice, it will be bad ass when I finsih it.
The car is already badass and I can assure you they are never finished. the 55 you saw at Amelia was probably my old 55 and I did several races in Mexico in the 90's with it.
Just read the whole thread. You've have done a superb job with this build. Although you say it was a budget deal I can imagine you've got some pretty big dollars invested when you add it all up. Congrats on keeping the vision through to the end and not giving up or getting sidetracked.......it's easy to do after encountering a few setbacks. I to am waiting to see it with the graphics.................frosting on the cake. Frank
fab32 Thanks for follwoing the thread, its an amatuer build with bare bones budget, like in my thread I am not a body man or mechanic just got some general skills that I keep working on, did alot of research to get the details and pictures then came up with my devious purpose built plan. I guess I can share were the funds have gone so far my goal including the purchase of the car and all of the work performed by me with some help from my buddy for the welding (two man job roll bar /exhaust paid him a few dollars for the help) Under $10K I got $11,000 for the Wagon so this is why the budget was set at under 10K as I put a grand in savings. Here is the break out so far: $4000 - Car Price (body decent / the owner rebuilt the lower end of the motor/ lapped the valves on the heads/ trans went thru /new fly wheel (427 Galaxie) new heavy duty clutch and stuff / 3 core aluminum radiator los of new parts on the motor) I bought the car because it had the perfect drivetrain) $900 15x8 Wheel Vintiques steelies and 4 Courser 265-75-15 Tires (Summit) $95 had to purchase another wheel they sent the wrong one my mistake I did not check it first before painting. $40 -mount an balance -Allied Discount Tires $350 - 12 point roll bar for the Galaxie -JEGS $150 - Cash to my buddy for helping weld the roll bar in with me. $40 - 5 point harness seat belt -JEGS $20 - Roll bar welding tabs for 5 point harness -JEGS $500 - Boese Engineering guage kit, I did not install there set up used the guages Auto Meter 6 - In dash Speedo/Tach /Oil /Water/Fuel/Amps $20 - My galavanized metal guage cluster I had the metal I cut it and bent it paid a guy in our machine shop $20 to cut the holes out). $110 - ABS Plastic Factory style delete plates molded from original Ford parts off EBAY he sells them as a set you can paint or plate them yourself (I painted them aluminum color ( I had the paint already no cost) $30 - Roll bar padding I box of 10 pieces had some left over only did the driver side (rule of thumb back then if was if the driver could touch it you had to pad it) -Jegs $20 - Steering wheel center pad. -JEGS $ 30 - Hood pen sets (3) 2 per kit with cables -JEGS $35 - Headlamp bulbs 4 hi/lo beams -Car Quest $ 15 - pair of horns local junk yard / under dash push button new $15 - 5 roles of 3M good black electric tape for roll bar and steering wheel wrap -Home depot $35 - 1 sheet of Fiberglass white sheeting 4x8 at Lowes $25 - misc. loom wrap / self tappers / and clamps -Home Depot great prices check them first before going to local parts store $20 - Big pack of various size ZIP ties - JEGS $40 - Panoramic Rear view mirror for roll bar mount -JEGS $ 60 - Brake parts for Dual MC converison - Master Cylinder Orielys $25 / other parts lines, fittings /proportioning valve /three way splitter local JUNK yard. $40 - Seats a pair I only used one out a mid 90's Dodge work van in vyinl painted black $13 - SEM Vyinl spray paint - NAPA $25 - Solder and heat shrink / Connectors. -Home Depot $40 - OEM rear trunk lip seal $10 - Aluminum strip from Home Depot for window slats I had the rivets already $50 - Shifter boot and Chrome trim plate OEM $15 - Can of Siliconizer from Home Depot for the floor pans $250 - 2K Urethane Gray Primer (NAPA paint store) 2 Gallons & 3 cans Reducer $100 - White sealer primer & reducer $175 - Kashmier Blue 1 1/2 Gallons /hardner /reducer local paint store $200 - Wimbelton White pre mix off the shelf color NAPA 2 gallons /hardner $35 - Harbor Freight palm sander velcro type $200 - Sand Paper "palm sander" various grits 40/150/200/400 wet sand $ 50 - Reducer Home Depot to clean the paint / primer guns $ 25 - Paint prep wipe NAPA 2 qrts. $ 150 - Exhaust parts and funds to my buddy for the help. $30 - Black spray paint cans $200 - Body filler /Dyna Glass / NAPA brand materials good filler easy sand $25 - Mr Gasket chrome air cleaner lid for my Bat wing assembly $20 - Misc aluminum pieces to build my Bat wing air cleaner housing. $30 - Holley carb rebuild kit still have lots of parts left. $120 - KYB 4 shocks my Mechanic got me a great price on these $15 - Polyurethane Sway bar end links $250 - Front bumper 150 + 100 shipping from New mexico junk yard it was solid few dings no rust out good driver. $25 - Rear Bumper seal rock guard rubber seal behind bumper. I am probably missing a few small dollar items, time actually working on the car since September I may have 2-300 hours on an off over the weekends and some evenings three day weekends etc. I have added up what I could remember about 99% of the parts. $9850 so far add in the $500 for the graphics I will be in about $10,500 when I am done still need some radiator hoses. My goal was to build it for under 10K including the car purchase I feel that this is still a very reasonable build for the dollars invested so far I may never re-coup what I got into it but I dont care it has been a great build that I hope will create a buzz for other people to build one also. Thanks for watching the build.
I love the pricing break down. Very realistic view of what a build really cost. As you said budget build! I've been intending to add up my reciepts and swap meet purchases lately before another swap season begins so I don't loose total track, but as you said I'm positive I would never be able to get my money back when the car is "done" (what ever that means). But thats not the point! Again...killer build!
Finally got a date set up for starting the graphics, he will be there on Sunday so hopefully he will geta portion completed I am trying to get him to finish on Monday while I am at work. At least its a start. Well he had to push the date till the weekend of the first and second of June. That way he can come into town and complete the job. Works for me.
Well it was graphics weekend this weekend. Thought I would share some of the pictures before and after, I will have to do this in a few strings as I have alot of pictures. It is complete he had 19 Hours into the whole job, 11 straight yestereday, and 8 today, his biggest issue was getting Kinkos to blow up his images for the templates, they kept telling him some BS and why does his customer want it painted versus decals stupid counter help could not understand how to increase the image sizes, in the end we got it done with what he had. All in all it as as close to period correct as we could get it to the original race car, only exception the rear sail panel graphic was actually a decal on the race car and the " Engineering & Foundery" crest was not visible or limited detail so i did not have him try to insert it. The colors are "One Shot" the blue is a little brighter than the orignal car they were more navy blue. He is a good artist "Pinstripin By Mikey" and super talented her first time out people will freak out. Please provide your feedback as I would like to know how we did? Thanks, Tony Please
Next set of pictures from today, sail panel, roof, and qtr panel graphics they came out killer looking.
The Jalopy Journal
