Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Bill Hines made it look easy. He could even smoke or chew on that big old cigar while doing it.
Like I say i need to try it sometime just see what it's like to work with. I know I would rather file and sand on lead than bondo.

 

Leading update.

More paddle work. This is a little better

Finished sanding with 80 grit. There are a couple of small marks that may fill with prime, if not putty. Close enough for a shop this size. I'll start on the other side tomorrow.

 

Looks great Joel. I would say you've developed the knack.

 

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Thanks, but I'd hate to have to make a living at it.

 

Nice work lead slinger!

 

Not quite, but if the other side comes out as good I'll be happy. I found that rubbing my hand over the surface to "feel" the contour put a lot of lead on my hands; probably not good. I started wearing mechanics gloves, but it's harder to feel. I think the approach used by G Winfield worked the best for me.

 

I went to Kalamazoo for the swap meet. I'm back on the body and have some pix of the other side.

The top is the edge of the seam that needs to be built up along the side, as well as on the top surface. Above is the first application and some smoothing of the lead.

More added lead

I found it harder to hold it on the edge and some dripped off. I was down to 3 sticks ; It went fast as I used more heat.

Some paddle work on the side.

I'll smooth this out more and then I'll have to start filing to see where I'm at. These pix won't help anyone who knows how to do this; I hope it will help someone who has been thinking about trying this process.

 

Leading update. This area was hammered aggressively prior to soldering at the factory and at the last minute I moved some of the metal out so as to use less lead. This caused a low area below the tinned area and required more tinning to add more lead.

After some filing, I decided the area (half circle) below was too low.

Tinned area added.

Lead added after some hammering to raise the metal as much as possible. I also had to fill a couple small low spots and smoothed the lead further using the paddle. I found that going back and re-smoothing after the panel has cooled is more difficult than doing it right after applying lead. Also , the thicker the lead, the more difficult to reheat and rework. On the other hand, a more experienced person probably doesn't need to go back often.

 

Looks like you are having quite a learning experience with the lead work Joel.Thanks for sharing your progress.

 

The temperature is so narrow while you are running lead, it just takes practice and a little patience. But getting it tinned properly is the first step. You can sweat two panels together and make a nice seam. Before my time in the Army everyone ran lead when I got out every one was spreading Bondo and that stuff was hard as concrete you had to surface everything with a grinder.
In body shops it's more cave and pave than work the metal and use a small amount of filler.
I commend you for learning the art of leading. Frank

 

You're very welcome Sam. I have more to do, but I'm waiting for ppg recomendation on epoxy prime over lead. The DPLF data sheet doesn't say you can and doesn't say you can't.

 

Thanks Frank. I have the most trouble with spreading and smoothing. The most time is in filing and sanding. I'm including some pix from last night.

Most filing done

Done sanding with long board and 80 grit. The weld seam under the lead needs to be done. after I'm confident that I can get good adhesion to the leaded areas, I'll continue along the weld. Below is a 2nd pic

 

Your work looks great Joel. Out of curiosity, I assume you wear a respirator when you sand the lead?

 

I do if using power units and when tinning. I used a manual longboard here.


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ok i want to see the new seat! wheres the new seat joel? lol! i will call ya back' been busy. rich cars looking good!

 

Hey Rich, I'm trying to get all the remaining bare metal primed before the weather turns, so the seat etc is taking a back seat. Did you settle on an engine & which one?

 

i just joking you, yea i got ahold of a 50 merc flatty, running ,alumnium heads, 4 barrel, runs good, also got ahold of a s 10 trans. so been collecting a few parts. itching to get started, but im going to finish thst rail project before i start on another. been meaning to call you. i will here shortly. been busy with some house stuff. im getting there..glad to see your on yours. i have to replace the tail panel on mine so i was interested on your lead work. be talking to you!

 

Hey ,Rich. I started another thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/dp40lf-over-leaded-repair.1034111/#post-11710895 Some good responses and info to keep me going. I'm always here (almost) especially as the Fall season closes in.

 

Finally ,I'm back on the lead work. As you can see, I'm leading the seam that I made from installing a patch. The panel is from EMS and I don't know what the coating is on those pieces , but I had a lot of work getting it off. If there is anything on the steel, it won't "tin".

The seam partially tinned and the start of stacking lead on. Had to turn the torch down a little.

Some of the lead paddled out. You can see the new work had to blend with previously finished lead. that is not the best way to do it. I think getting all the lead on before you start filing is the way to go.

Tinning done

All the seam covered and I started filing on the pass. side.

 

Looks like you are starting to get the the leading process figured out Joel. I commend you for taking the time and energy required to learn this skill.

 

Thanks, Sam, but so far more patience than skill[emoji4]


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Finally , I'm back. I had some issues leading the weld joint on the tail panel. Making a long story short, I've been redoing the lead because it didn't tin properly. Here are some pix of the redo.

Top pic. I removed the lead and attempted to re-tin the area. You might notice some small dark spots in the tinned area; they are not tinned. The pic above is the right half of the seam that is not redone yet.

 

Here is some work where there were pits that I filled with lead. I figured this would give better support to the metal where the fender bolt on.
I don't want to start a s**t storm, but I think the tinning problem in the last post is/was due to using an EMS panel (below the weld) and the coating that is on it. JMO

 

Good to hear from you Joel. I was ready to write you a pm to find out what you have been up to. Sorry you are having so much trouble with the leading process. Thanks for sharing your learning process. I was thinking about using lead on my next project but I am reconsidering that now.

 

Don't be discouraged based on my progress rate. In the last pic of post 352, the left side shows a small amount of lead left after sanding/ shaping. I think now that I should have left more room for the lead when I was using the hammer & dolley. Also I should have stripped the EMS panel completely, instead of just where the weld was going to be. blame it on inexperience and maybe trying to go a little too fast.

 

More pix of the lead rework, with it now tinned all the way across. much better and much larger area to work with.

outline area is lead; the rest is tinned

 

All the lead is redone and ready to file.....yea
I know.. It looks like stucco, but it goes fairly quick with vixen files; sanding with 80 grit muuuuuch slower

 

Your doing great! Keep working it and you'll be the expert. A wooden paddle, some tallow, and a little heat from a torch will smooth it right out (50's style).

 

Really nice...I had a '40 Ford in High School with a 283 in it....altho mine was Tudor sedan....man, that back seat was freakin great!
Nice work with the leading...keeping an art alive.

 

Thanks, my technique right now is get enough on and file it smooth

I drove this car in HS, bought a '57 Chevy my Senior year and pulled the flathead to install a 327. I finally installed the 327 2 yrs ago. I got to get it done this year.

I filed and sanded some of the lead.

just filed

pitted areas are ok I think