I just run premium fuel in my '58 292, it seems to like it okay. IMO, most fuel additives do a whole lot of nothing.
If it has never had hardened seats installed STP and CD-2 have a lead subs***ute you may want to add every third tank full,as far as the other additives go you probably don't need them.
I honestly don't believe in lead subs***utes either, none of our engines run them, and none have hardened seats installed. Again, to each their own, whatever makes you comfortable with your car!
I would have to agree with Custom Crestline, whatever makes you feel most comfortable. I will say that I run the Lucas Fuel Additive in every tank full for my '55's 272, and I'm more than happy to spend the couple of bucks just for the peace of mind it gives me. With the price of gas these days, if you get the larger bottle of the Lucas it's really such a small % of the total cost of a tank full that it doesn't bother me in the least. Plus, my boy Jay Leno couldn't speak highly enough about the stuff, so I was sold.
When I had my Y block in my 55 Fairlane the only additives I used was stay bill and a lead additive for the exhaust seats . Other than that , I didn't use anything else . I also used the middle grade junk fuel and had no problems or any pings ! There are many really great additives out there but you need to do your research first to use the one that best suits your needs ! Learn to read the label really well and understand what is in the additive you are using . As long as you keep the fuel good and zinc in the oil and lead in the fuel for the exhaust seats , there really isn't anything else you need . Just because a movie star says to use this or that , doesn't mean it's good for your application ! Jim
In Oregon, we have the **** gas here that is 10% alchohol and really draws moisture from the air and then settles in you tank if it sits for a period of time like a month or so. I have a station close by that sells "clear" for about $5/gallon but if I travel I have to get the **** gas. I run an additive for the moisture and a octane enhancer when on the road. What a pain to stay on the road........
Anybody besides me had to rebuild the carb in their chain saw or weed whacker this year? The alcohol in pump gas hardens the accelerator pump diaphrams and dissolves the plastic fuel lines pretty much no matter what you do. I use Sta-Bil but that doesn't seem to prevent the deterioration of the carb and fuel system parts. Urgggg! What part of "corn is food" doesn't the government understand?
I didn't rebuild the carbs yet but had to replace the line into the carb on my lawn tractor, son in-law had same problem with his chainsaw. Both are fairly new (lesss than 5 yrs), but the hoses were leaking. His was worst - he thought the carb was bad, pulled & cleaned it. He didn't see anything bad so put it back together only to find out the line that comes in from the tank was the culprit. My tractor line was badly cracked so I replaced it before it started leaking. I pulled the carb off my snowblower last fall during pre-season prep because it wouldn't start. Bad gas may have been the reason. I also use StaBil but the neoprene needle valve was hard & stuck in the seat. Replaced it and the blower was okay.
Engines that run constant rpm have carbs without accelerator pumps and are, as you mention, rarely affected other than the fuel lines. My lawn mower, lawn tractor, etc. have not been damaged, but the chain saw and weed eater seem to be highly vulnerable to the alcohol-laden pump gas.
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