Gauges 6v to 12V

I'm guessing I need to convert as none of the stock gauges in my 55 f100 work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Voltage-Reducer-Converts-6V-Gauges-12V-/370539714249

 

If your bent to convert, then yes you will need something like that to run the old guages. Also all your bulbs will need to be changed, and gen/alt too.

Also not to be a prick or maybe i am, but you could have asked this in your previous thread.

 

You can build one for a fraction of that price

 

The truck has been converted to 12 v. The guages are stock 6v, is the preferred method one of the parts I linked above or?

 

DO NOT buy that, it is a runtz you would need one on each gauge,Ford used 6 volt gauges up into the 80's this is just for your gauges and will insure proper readings: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1959-1972-F...its=Model:Mustang&hash=item3f13be9bda&vxp=mtr this can be used for all the gauges.

 

I agree with Jeff, use the Ford IVR and all will be well. Runtz and other aftermarket will work but are lots more trouble to use. Do it like Henry did and it worked from 1928 until 1985! Except for their screw up in 1956.

 

Ford IVR's work, but are not that good at keeping gauges accurate. And if you lose the ground, then your gauges will burn up, due to a full 12v on them.

You might want to look into a solid state unit.

 

That Vintique thing you posted appears to be a zener diode. I wouldn't use one of those (and they cost a fraction of that).

The Ford IVR is a chopper unit and I personally don't like them. They do work, but can fry your gauges if not wired right and you have a failure.

I prefer a true CVR as described in the 'how to make your own' link posted above. I do all my cars this way. It also gives you the most accuracy from your gauges...

 

Sorry which link?

 

Post #3

 

I am working on the same thing for my 53. I got my eye on this.

http://vintageautogarage.com/voltage-regulator-12-volts-to-6-vo126.html

 

Damn...if you folks are willing to pay that much for something that costs less than a $1, I'm in the wrong business....

 

Less than a dollar?

 

Patrick at Patrick's Antique Automotive in Casa Grande, AZ used to sell a booklet on 6v to 12v conversions. Gives step by step instructions even a knucklehead like me could follow. I used it 15 years ago, worked like a champ. Good reference material for the garage library. I would check with him.
From his website:
During business hours you can call 1-520-836-1117
or fax us at 1-520-836-1104
You may also contact us via email at patstrks@aol.com

 

After looking at his website, he has a simple step by step published right there:
http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/articles.html

 

Read post 3

 

Thanks!

 

You can build one that handles ALL of the gauges for less than $10!

 

Thank you!

 

Not sure why people get in such a huff over converting gauges to 12v.
A full flow amp gauge should not be used. Period. A gas gauge doesn't care about voltage. It just measures resistance. Same with oil pressure. Unless it's mechanical of course. Temp. ... you guessed it.
Am I talking out my ass? Maybe. But many 6v-12v trouble free conversions tell the story.
My avatar has the stock original gauges. No resistors or shunts. They have been working fine for 20 years like that.

 

Williamson Instruments in Arkansas, great people to deal with, have had 3 sets done by them ,life time warranty............479-369-2551 talk to ron

 

Full flow amp gauges are fine. Only the paranoid and uneducated are 'afraid' of them. All of the car's current flows through a few things - a simple fusible link fixes all those evils. An ammeter shows you stuff a voltmeter won't, but the best is both - unfortunately, most of us don't have enough real estate on our dash and pick one or the other.

As for a gas gauge just measuring resistance, ohm's law tells us otherwise. Virtually all gauges measure current - even voltmeters. You can control current with resistance or voltage, but if you don't change the resistance and double the voltage, the current doubles. Therefore, your gas gauge will be inaccurate - grossly - and maybe even burn up depending on the design of your system.

No 'maybe' about it - you are flat wrong.

Then your car was converted previously. Period.

 

Are you saying I should look else where as to why the stock 55 f100 gauges arent working? The sending unit on the fuel tank is brand new, gauge is inaccurate however. Thanks.

 

Speaking of electrical parts, any idea what this is? Connects right to the alternator.

 

Searching for model number yields nothing.

 

No, you should do what these guys tell you. I'm talking out my ass. I did a 54' F100 2 years ago. Stock gauges running a sbc. They still work. They are accurate. I just re-did the entire electrical system in my avatar 6 months ago. Again, stock gauges, no shunts or resisters. Gauges are accurate.
Guess I'm just lucky.
Carry on.

 

I know some disagree with C. 51, but I have the same experience. Converted a '51 Olds a few years back. Just left the gauges hooked up as stock, all read correctly. Put a ballast resistor in the heater feed, and turned the instrument rheostat down. Simple, and stupid cheap.

Cosmo

 

I = V/R

Where I = current, V = voltage, & R = resistance

Virtually ALL gauges are ammeter - they measure the flow of current through the gauge either through induction (overwhelming majority) or bi-metallic strips heating, bending, and moving a gear train.

Therefore, if nothing changes but V doubles, I also doubles and since that's what you're measuring, well, it means your gauges ain't right.