So; short back story. Got a 1960 Fairlane 4d with a 292 y block and fordomatic today. Wasn't really interested in keeping the actual car but it seems to be growing on me (the fact that my first real hamb car was a 60 Starliner helps). But I am absolutely stymied by the condition of the front and rear gl***. Even cleaned, it looks like a heavy fog is rolling in.. more back story; I've tried 0000 steel wool, comet powder cleanser, sacrificed a lamb? Etc.. point me in the right direction. Granted, if the gl*** kills the car, so be it, but if it is salvageable I'd rather try. I can find another y block.
I use jeweler's rouge with a spray bottle of water and my buffer, might be able to use some plain ol rubbing compound
Could be the old style, safety plate laminated gl*** that had plastic in the middle of the two pieces? Not sure if that stuff was still being used in 1960, but I do know it is used on my 1954 car. If it is something on the outside only, I took a car like that to a body shop and they polished it out with a commercial buffer and a super fine grit paste.
It's definitely 2 piece safety gl***. I bought the car solely for the engine but it is better than I thought it would be. Not that it's a cream puff by any means. It's a five mile stretch of gravel road.
if the plastic between the gl*** is fogged, you need to replace the gl***, or live with it being fogged. There's no way to clean it.
Doesn't seem to be the inside except along the edges. Familiar with delam fogging. This is all on the surface.
Ive buffed gl*** with the same compounds as final cut for paint. I prefer 3M perfect it line, but use what you like. Polishing, not buffing compound.
I use muriatic acid on my work truck, i’ve bought it as concrete cleaner/etcher. .01% (i think) then used it on a wet (water) sponge. We get a lot of lime on our vehicles, it leaves the gl*** looking milky white. nothing else seems to touch it. I use it on the paint too, it leaves it shiny surprisingly.
Sounds like it has been exposed to hard water. Our fleet of skid pad cars that we had when I worked for the Govt had that on them from the sprinkler systems used to keep the skid pad wet. We tried every product known to man on those windows. Finally let a contract with a company to replace the gl***. It impregnated into the gl*** and could not be polished out.
Try gl*** top stove cleaner. We recently cleaned 40 year old dirt from windows with it when nothing else would touch it.
I too use the gl*** top stove cleaner. No streaks. Also use it on the gl*** door on my woodstove. I buy the Weiman brand at the local Kroger outlet. Goes on like liquid wax and dries very quickly.
I had a 64 Impala many years ago that a farmer had owned, all the windows were badly stained by hard water, the only thing that would touch it was 4/0 steel wool and solvent.
I had a guy wet sand and polish the gl*** t tops on a T/A for me a few years back. They went from scratched and foggy to perfection! I have used pumice in a light rubbing compound to remove water spots, might give that a try as well. Got the pumice at a gl*** shop, they use it for cutting soap and water marks on shower doors.
Tried a few ideas so far but nothing really effective. Upside is that not much I can do to make it worse!
I use this and a white scotch brite pad. Works for me. I read somewhere, it's made from powdered oyster shells.
Scotch Brite pads come in different colors for a reason. Use only white colored pads on gl***, the other colors will scratch the gl***.
I did this on a very crusty & dirty 56 Lincoln windshield ; worked great. Nothing else seemed to cut the crud. You can buy industrial razor blades in a dispenser for not too much money
i have a dynamite gl*** polishing guy here in fla but your far from me ,,, he gets around 150 to do a windshield look around where you are may be a similar guy with a lil lookin ,, my guy does commercial stuff as in buildings and store counters but does car stuff when hes not busy , fabricator john miss you dad
It's a composite of everything and then baked by the sun. Ceramic cooking pots are basically the same as gl*** but after cooking with them a few years, it shows. Acidic bird poop, tree sap, rail dust, blow-by oil, smog, acid rain, hard water, and whatever else you can think of gets baked on daily for decades into a bulletproof crust. Elbow grease just gets the loose pimples on the surface. It going to take machine power with a polishing compound to get results. even the inside is no squirt-n-wipe. You can't use a buffer inside but you still have to be on the aggressive side.
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