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Getting stuck aluminum flathead heads off???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chris, Nov 26, 2012.

  1. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

    I thought I could get em, but man they are not budging! I am being very careful however as not to damage the heads. I got this engine a week ago, been squirting penetrating oil on each stud every day since! I have tried cranking it over with the plugs in, made some T handle pullers using spark plugs to thread into the holes, tapped and tapped on em all over...they will just not budge. Anyone else run into some suborn ones? How did you get em off without damaging anything?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,632

    TexasSpeed
    Member
    from Texas

    I know I'm not even on the same level as a Flathead "novice" but is it possible to take the studs out through the heads? Like, twist a pair of nuts against each other and unscrew the stud out using the bottom nut.. Unless there's not enough thread sticking out of the block to do that. Or it hurts the heads somehow.

    Just a random thought. If you're laughing at my lack of knowledge of all that is Flathead, then disregard this post. :)
     
  3. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member



    No, that is an idea...I tried it! Problem is theres simply not enough sticking up.
     
  4. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,632

    TexasSpeed
    Member
    from Texas

    Yeah.. Kinda looked like it in the pictures.

    Good luck, man.
     
  5. chop32
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,077

    chop32
    Member

    I once saw an article about this, maybe in Hot Rod Mechanix?
    Evidently the aluminum is swedged into the threads of the studs when the nuts are tightened, making the heads difficult (or impossible) to remove. The fix was to find a piece of thin wall tubing with an ID that slid snugly over the head stud. Cut teeth into one end of the tubing (similar to a hole saw) and use it like a hole saw to remove the offending layer of aluminum.
     
  6. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    try some beeswax melted onto threads. bet the heads were tight on the studs and "galled" locking them in place. here is what i would try remove the plugs and fill the cylinders with rope and slowly turn engine over. what about building puller that would thread into each plug hole and slow and even apply pressure across the heads with heat. thing is if it takes a week and you get them off without busting them it will be worth it, good luck!
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  7. Xman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 625

    Xman
    Member

    Pull all the plugs - put one of the end pistons just BTDC - pour a pint of 30/wt oil through the plug hole and reinstall that plug. Gently rotate the crank by hand and try to push the head loose. If you overdue it you'll bend a rod but it might work.
     
  8. Hi Chris. You might be lucky with the thin cutting tube thingy trick. I'm trying the same thing at the moment with an 8BA and I'm struggling. The heads have been on since '94 and want to stay there. Keep trying :) . .
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1353918819.555249.jpg
    Hit it!
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1353918835.933434.jpg
    Ouch!
    CM . . .


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  9. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 824

    Diavolo
    Member

    I'd say pump half a dozen pumps of grease into one of the center plug holes and then replace the plug and crank.
     
  10. jambottle
    Joined: Apr 11, 2003
    Posts: 564

    jambottle
    Member

    modify the 8 plugs for grease fittings and pump grease in with a grease gun. try to get even pressure on all 8.it is amazing how much pressure a good grease gun will put out.
     
  11. GlenC
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 757

    GlenC
    Member

    We shifted a set of stuckoriginal aluminium heads in the 60's by backing all the head bolts/studs off a few turns and simply firing her up! She idled for a few minutes, then the heads popped off, one by one. Leaving the studs partly in meant the heads didn't go flying across the garage.

    Cheers, Glen.
     
  12. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Yep, I had one that was really stuck and all it took was cranking it over for a few minutes with the starter. Knocked them loose enough to get them moving.
     
  13. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member

    Could weld a nut to the end of each stud, and remove them that way. The heat from the weld might loosen things up too.

    Rob
     
  14. this is what I would try , mig weld a nut on the end and use an impact turned down and ease em out. I think the heat from the weld and the slight jarring or vibration from the gun, studs should back out...hopefully not snapping one
     
  15. GTOMUSTANG
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 115

    GTOMUSTANG
    Member
    from ct

    I'm wondering if you'll find copper gaskets underneath, and the two metals formed a battery and fused.
     
  16. larry k
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 628

    larry k
    Member

    WITH ALL THE STUD NUTS OFF, JUST START HER UP !:eek:?? "OH " AND PLEASE STAND BACK,,, NOW DON'T LAUGH IT WILL WORK,,,, IF THIS DON'T DO IT YOU GOT A REAL PROBLEM...
     
  17. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Push a high-pressure washer nozzle to the plug holes and give each cylinder a blast. The ones with the valves closed will pop the head up. Block the crank from turning, then turn it so another hole is on the right stroke and do it again. You won't bend rods this way. Might take several tries, just keep at it.
    Dontcha jest LOVE head studs?
    You can also get your machinist to cut a couple of head nuts thinner so you can lock two together and pull the studs, but be aware that some might break if they have set up in the aluminum really solid.
     
  18. rouye56wingnut
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 352

    rouye56wingnut
    Member
    from mn.

    I had this issue once and my sollution was to loosen the headbolts and leave the nuts on about half way .Get out an air chisel with a dull point bit and rattle each bolt enough to loosen the electrolosis . You will actually see the aluminum dust climb out as you use the air chisel .In conjunction you may also have to apply head and penetrant .
     
  19. Meyer
    Joined: Sep 9, 2007
    Posts: 379

    Meyer
    Member

    I have the same problem right now.

    I used a 4x4 chunk of wood on one side. Took the manifold off and laid it across the top of each head. A few taps and the head was loose enough to fit a putty knife under it. Worked the putty knife around carefully and it came out.

    The other side is not budging.
     
  20. I have soemhardwood wedges that the Ol' man made gawd knows when just for getting stubborn flat heads off. There is usually a place to start on and you tap and wiggle. The Ol man called it worrying them off. It is tedious work and one of the things that got relegated to me an a very yound age.

    Might be worth trying if all else failes.

    Also that make a tool, it may be called a stud puller, that you can put on the end of the stud and pull the stud. You will have to replace the stud when you are done but studs are with a lot less than heads.
     
  21. Lytles Garage
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 621

    Lytles Garage
    Member

    There used to be a guy around here we called ROPE, he worked on motorcycles, he would push a bunch of small rope down the spark plug hole and turn the motor over and the head would pop off, might work on a V8??? Chris
     
  22. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,144

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^^^^ this, no huge mess like with grease / oil. feed chunks of cotton rope into the end cylinders, crank over by hand.
     
  23. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I wouldn't do anything that would put stress on the spark plug threads. Those threads are pretty flimsy to begin with.

    I think your head is glued to the studs with aluminum oxide. That stuff is like concrete. I'd try soaking with CLR and try to get the studs out (or at least rotating a bit) first.
     
  24. CLR I never thought of that. That stuff works like a champ on corroded stuff.
     
  25. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,510

    TERPU
    Member

    If it'll run then do that first. If not take your Rose Bud out and start heating the heads ever so gently. Also have a beeswax candle going and drip it onto the studs. As both are heated there should be enough space to let the beeswax lube up the studs. You are fighting electrolisis and you have to break the barrier. Running it is the best though as it's a controlled way to vibrate the joint loose on each and every stud evenly.


    Good Luck,

    Tim
     
  26. I made a puller and used the spark plug holes with no problem. Not on aluminum heads, however.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=510805&highlight=flathead
     
  27. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    The CLR sounds like an interesting possibility.
     
  28. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

  29. Did you scrool down far enough to see the hollowed out spark plugs?
     
  30. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member



    Yeah, I think I'll do that. How do you hollow em, just bust the porcelain out??
     

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