Projects Glass '32 5 Window

Thanks, glad to see I still can!!

 

Dash came out great. This thing ought to be a real sleeper with that engine.

 

That was my plan, but you never know! I just want a driver and have fun, my way! Maybe one trip to the strip just to get a time slip!

 

Here’s an update, modified intake, drilled and tap, for the screw in PVC valve and plumb it to carb vacuum. Then flipped the intake and fit the baffle over the PVC valve, mark the holes, drill and tap for two 10- 24 Allen head screws. The screws have been ground flat on one side of the head and then drilled for safety wire. Don’t want it dropping inside!! Cleaned everything before installation. Used some thread locker and install. For good measure, .020 stainless safety wire added. Should be OK!! Time for some detailing on the intake, then break in lube on lifters, pushrods and rockers! I don’t want to forget the lifter valley windage tray before the pushrods!!! Then time for the intake, carb, distributor, etc. Soon time for some noise!!

 

AMEN !!!

 

Well, tried to contact Comp Cams to ask what to do for cam break in! Tried four times, on hold for an hour, one call to go and it hung up on me! Lousy waiting music too. Problem is their break in lube runs off in time! After a month it was gone from the lobes. Went instead to the HAMB, learned about oil soluble grease! Decided to get some EP Grease to coat the lobes and lifter cam surface and install the pushrods and rockers. I will still add Comp Cams break in lube with the oil! At least I know the lube will still be where I put it! Any other ideas would be appreciated since I didn’t close it up yet!

 

Grease the ends of the pushrods too.
SBC oiling feeds the pushrod ends last, so they are where rubbing happens.

 

Love that oil system diagram !! Yep and the rocker balls and rocker tips and cups !! Thanks!! I do remember a long time ago we just stuck the pushrods in the grease container. One got pushed in to far. Made a clog, we found some galling on that pushrod tip and lifter cup! Didn’t hurt anything, found it when we did an aircraft oil sample!!

 

This is from the "rarely happens" file, new or used, check the pushrods for through flow. Many years ago I built a 355 SBC, I bought a new set of GM issue pushrods and after checking things over I found one blue rocker arm, pulled the pushrod and found one end insert had never been drilled, so it does happen.

 

Made some more progress! Replace the invisible intake bolts after installing a lifter windage tray, all pushrods, rockers and setting the valve clearance! New lifters with no oil are nice, you can feel the lifter spring and adjust it till the pushrod stops turning and back off till it has a small amount of spring play. Then added some oil with break in oil, and installed the intake!! Good day!! Getting closer!!

 

This is how I adjusted my valves. Just fired it up last week. Fresh rebuild that I did myself. Fired up on the first crank when I put juice to the coil. I cranked it over a few times to get oil pressure and fuel to the carb with the coil un hooked. Like I said it fired right up. Did the cam break in, and so far so good. Fingers crossed.

 

That’s how I did mine no big deal!! Thanks!!

 

This is such a great site. It's so nice reading about someone who tries to build/make things themselves. As far as fuel filters, how about a Corvette from 64- 65. They're available from Rock Auto / Amazon.

 

Thanks! I have a MicroGard unit p/n 33481 with inverted flare fittings I plan on installing under the car mounted on the frame rail with easy access for maintenance! By the way I was born and raised in Reading, 5 blocks from the old fairgrounds dirt track! Spent many evenings watching the guys race flatheads in their deuce coupes! Bobby Abel was my favorite!! Miss those days!!

 

Yep. The same one I use. Hate the cheap ones that use the rubber lines on each end. By the way, I used ni cop 3/8 line for gas line from tank to fuel pump on deuce pickup I'm building.

 

Here’s my future fuel system 3/8”. A few bends and a couple straights, maybe some adel clamps and time to fill the tank!

 

Keep us updated.

 

Work on some stuff today. Installed lube in the quick change (slow and easy, messy too) and the Super T 10 ( not as messy). Also installed the speedometer gear in the tail shaft of the trans. Starting out with 22 tooth gear and go from there!

 

Raise your hand if you think hot rods should have three pedals and four speeds!

 

Agreed many times over! Bought a fan belt today. 57 “ long for a 1957 Chevy pickup, fits perfectly!!

 

Got some more done today, fuel line pump to carb, generator belt alignment and tension, temp mounted regulator and resistor, and figured out the fuel filter and other details. Tomorrow I plan to plumb in the oil pressure gauge line and remove the distributor, time to pre oil and see what leaks? Cooling system is ready to be filled and plugs and ignition wires are next! Seems I don’t have to do a lot of wiring to light her up!! Getting closer!!

 

Found out the filter has metric fittings. Looked on line and found fittings made by Earls just for that install, o rings and all. That makes it easier to replace too.

 

OK, pre oiled the engine, no leaks so far, got 50 psi in 10 seconds on the first shot! I plan on rotating the crank about 90 degrees and pre oil a couple times. Turn another 90 and do it again, and so on for awhile. Time to wire up the starter and ignition, install the leads, plugs and the distributor. Set timing and piss off the neighbors!

 

One of the best reasons to own a hot rod!

 

Couple of minor things I'm seeing.
When doing a first fire, it can be skipped, but on that first drive, fit up a section of small rod to hold the choke open. Too bad wire coat hangers are obsolete.
That gen pulley is huge! A 327 is often a high-winding engine and generators don't like high RPM, so it should slow it down enough to live a long time, but check output at idle and just off idle with the accessories (lights radio wiper) all on to make sure you don't run the battery down while out driving in stop and go traffic.

 

Good eye! It’s really a 350 crate motor my wife got me as a surprise. Valve covers were a Craigslist find, rare 1962 style. Dumb luck? If you look back in-my thread you will see my double hump heads are fake too! It’s a gl*** car so anything goes. I have a push- pull cable for the choke and the old piece of coat hanger that came on the carb! I still must do the double return springs and a few other details. Seems the small stuff takes more time than you think!! I might have to up the idle speed to help the generator make power. Maybe I can goose the throttle at a stoplight to get more attention? Thanks for the tips.

 

Seems like eBay has a bunch of delco remy generator pulleys, all different sizes! Might be needed!

 

measure, then cut (check output, adjust IF needed)
I follow a bunch of different threads, so didn't remember the engine specs.
You are doing nice, clean work. If it takes a bit longer to get right, you are the final judge of how far to take it.

 

Fix it WHEN it's a problem!

 

I think the 3 pulleys and the generator are originals from a 1957 Chevy 265 truck engine. Not sure that means anything, but it is a factory setup. Time will tell!