Projects Glass '32 5 Window

I had a stingray bicycle many moons ago I primed krylon it red oxide and pinstripe it and cleared it gloss it was cool

 

Got the coupe together, and took her for a test ride. Felt great, all systems are go. No leaks, brakes straight and true. Weather is getting warmer, more trips around the neighborhood. Then expand the trips. Car isn't pretty, but I might hit a small show just for fun!

 

Awesome!!!

 

Pretty?
We don't need no stink'n pretty!
We need photos of black tire marks in the street.

 

Soon!!

 

Put 10 miles on the coupe today. Got a ton of thumbs up and smiles. Good day. Only issue was wandering voltage. I did not polarize the regulator, my bad. My battery box makes a complete disconnect every time I remove the connector. Must remember to do that before each run. Guess my wife was right when she told me to just put on an alternator. It just doesn't seem right.The gen looks the part!!! But boy is that a ball to drive. Learned today about quick change whine. Need some good sound deadener in the back. But I really don't care,!!!!

 

Awesome!

 

I agree, going to aim the headlights tonight and buzz around the neighborhood. Plus tomorrow I plan to do it all over again.

 

AC/DC Thunderstruck will fix that!

 

The few times I had to polarize a regulator, it 'took' and didn't need to be redone each time the battery got disconnected. I hope others chime in with more experience.
EDIT: See a few more replies onward. You DO!

Don't get me started with all the stupid stuff modern cars need to learn when the battery is disconnected!

 

Good choice, sounds like you have prior experience!!!

 

Well time will tell, hope it's not the gen!

 

The whine broughy back fond old memories of my 57' drag car, 331 sbc with a straight cut Doug Nash racing 5 speed and a Long shifter, 7800 rpm shift and launch about 6800. The 12 bolt worked great after I learned how to set up my own gears, 4.88.

 

That generator pulley you have is HUGE! Even bigger than the ones they put on hi-po models. That may very well explain the wandering voltage as it's not operating within its optimal RPM range. Put one on about half that size, I'll bet that will fix it.

 

Well, I looked and stand corrected.
https://www.trifivechevys.com/forum...cal-discussion/6665-polarizing-your-regulator

Partial quote
Whenever the battery is disconnected from the vehicle for any reason the polarization procedure should be performed.

 

That's the stock pulley and generator for a 57'Chevy pickup with a 265 sbc. Same for the distributor, fan and pulleys. Sounds like I will be making a 10 gauge wire for polarizing the gen. Maybe I can run them into the cab with a big switch. Them I can hit it every time I go! What do you guys think? Lucky I ran a volt meter in the dash, it goes to high, I turn on the headlights ( load brings the voltage down). Too low kill the lights. PIT***. Will get it one way or another!!

 

I thought of that (the switch). I could be a bit of an anti-theft but would take a while to run out of juice.
I would want something that sparks like this does outside the p***enger compartment!
The wire is hot at all times when the battery is connected, too. Maybe a hidden ch***is momentary switch? A ****on near the battery that operates a relay underneath? I'd want heavy duty contacts!

 

no--once the fields are charged-they stay

 

But I do have an aircraft ni-cad battery box with a great quick disconnect. I like to disconnect battery when I get in the garage.

 

I think a short piece of copper 10 gauge with stripped ends. Connect the battery, walk up to the regulator and make some sparks(outside the cabin)!!! Sparks are fun at night, everybody around will wonder what the hell is this old guy doing?

 

Till you disconnect the battery!!!

 

Proving once again that you can find complete BS on the internet...

What you're trying to polarize is the Field windings, not the armature. The armature has no 'set' polarity, each pole loop switches polarity every 180 degrees of rotation. Generally speaking, once this has been done it doesn't need to be done again as enough residual magnetism will remain in the field poles. Spark 12V positive from the battery (for a negative ground system) across a field connection at either the regulator or generator and you're done. That residual magnetism is why you can push-start a generator car with a dead-flat battery, but not a car with an alternator. The exception to this is if the generator has been removed/reinstalled or banged on; any bumps or knocks can literally knock the residual out of it.

That giant pulley is probably the cause of all your troubles. You're running it at least 1/2 normal speed with that pulley, maybe 1/3. The regulator was no doubt struggling to produce its rated voltage/current, you may have killed it, and/or possibly damaged the field windings.

 

This is what it should look like... https://cl***icparts.com/1947-62-ge...utSsLZPk18A39ZPlmhSHA8GVm1HEqGjFs5NYj5oW3SxWk

 

You are sparking the battery to the field, correct,? The manual says battery to armature!! Plus the voltage output didn't follow rpm at all.

 

Yes, battery positive to the generator field. Personally, I'd do that at the generator terminal and give it a good spark. I'd replace the pulley first, if problems persist check the resistance through the field windings to make sure they're good, then the regulator.

Also make sure you have a good ground between the generator and the metal regulator housing. That is critical for the regulator to operate right.

 

And as to polarizing each time the battery is disconnected, that is also BS. When you shut the car off, the battery is disconnected from the charging system, otherwise it would drain your battery.

 

Tomorrow I will spark the battery to the arm and see what happens. TMI!!! Wish me luck! Results to follow!!Trust no one!!!

 

Look back in my thread, when I disconnect it the voltage is no longer found at the regulator or fuse box.

 

That doesn't matter. Open that disconnect switch or don't, it makes no difference to the charging system. Remember, generators are self-energizing, i.e. they don't need external power to start charging. This is where that residual magnetism comes in; it provides just enough magnetic flux to allow the generator to produce power once it's spinning fast enough. The battery terminal is isolated/disconnected from the charging system by an open contact that closes once output reaches a set minimum, at that point the system is connected to the battery.

Alternators are not self-energizing, they require an external power source in order to work.

 

@Crazy Steve That was my understanding too. I don't have personal experience with GM generators, so I went looking. I realize they all operate in a similar manner and that what I was used to should be right, but went to the net to confirm.
Sorry if I spread bad info, that was not my intent.