Projects Glass '32 5 Window

No worries. You went to a supposedly reputable source, and as too often is the case, somebody with probably only partial knowledge at best posts incorrect info that to the majority of readers who think of electricity as some form of 'magik' buy into. As a working electrician for almost 40 years, some of the scariest **** I ever saw was done by somebody who had just enough knowledge to be dangerous.

The biggest misconception a**** DIYs that work on their own cars is that a vehicle electrical system runs on 'DC' power and principles. The Ohms law equations are the common knowledge base for that and is relatively simple to understand. But the reality is very little of the electrical bits on these systems can be completely described using it. Yes, you're using a DC source, a battery. But other than purely resistive loads like lighting, lighters and some gauges, pretty much everything else operates using AC principles in one degree or more. The small stuff can generally be ignored, things like relays, solenoids and small motor loads for example. But large motor loads, charging systems of any kind, and ignition systems are where ignoring their AC characteristics can cause issues.

Automotive generator charging systems had become standardized by the late '40s. While there were design detail differences, operation was all the same.

 

I get most of this stuff. I have my A&P license for 55 years. Worked in Gemeral Aviation (small stuff) for about 20 of those years. Even had my own shop for 6 years. My wife and I worked together. We look back on those times fondly. I've been working on aircraft and cars since I was 13. Built several cars from the ground up. This Vette was a beat up old texas racecar with a straight axle. Converted to pro street. I do everything myself because I love to. Why should I pay someone to learn when I can.

 

Did a little research on the large pulley on my generator. The pulley on the generator is 5.25". Checked the crank and water pump pulley diameter, 7.10". Might be from an early Surburban engine? Any way the fun continues!!

 

Yep, probably turning at 1/2 speed or a bit less.

 

Did a Google search on my generator rpm requirements. It starts charging at 500-600, not a lot, just enough to keep the light out if it were installed. Likes 2000-3000 rpm or as they call it highway cruising speed. I have had the battery disconnected for at least 5 months. I am charging it for a few hours, put it back in the coupe, spark the battery to the armature, and give her a try. Wish me luck. I have a list of smaller pulleys that fit my generator for the next attempt. Also got some prices on alternators. Powermaster makes an alternator that looks like my generator. Option #2--$.

 

Finally got the generator working. Turns out the D 618 regulator is a fussy sob. To adjust it you must bend the tabs that hold the spring that applies the tension to the points. Took awhile but I got it. So I cleaned her up and took her to a small meet and greet car gathering in Star. Got to meet everyone there, my coupes first public display. Everybody loved it. Tons of questions. Pictures too. Only one guy ask me what color I plan to paint her, my reply was primer is paint!! Had a ball! Now she has 50 miles on the odometer. Runs great.

 

Really glad that it's working and that you had a good time!
Now that it's sorted and you know what is involved, maybe do a Tech Week post of your new knowledge so it can be referred to in the future, rather than the wrong stuff I posted.

 

It took a day to understand how the regulator actually controls the voltage. The other issue is the new style regulator isn't set anywhere near the needs of the generator. If you installed a new regulator and if worked correctly the first time, you are a very lucky man. Patience is the key plus Google a lot of questions and let it all sink in. Worked fore!?

 

Kind of like installing a point set!
What do you mean it needs adjustment? I bolted it in the same way as the old one!
What's crazy is that after doing that day in and out at one place that stocked the same brand, I could take a GM V8 point set, give it a twist, install and it was usually within a couple degrees of right. It would always fire up unless the dist was shot.

 

Not the regulator I got. Put it in, started the car, watched the voltage, up it went to 16 and climbing. I agree on points, match book cover is all you need for clearance. The only way to do a regulator is to lower the spring pressure on the field coil spring. No voltage will be produced, start bending or tapping the tab on the spring to increase the tension. Keep an eye on your voltmeter. Get the voltage increasing. Then tiny, tiny taps on the tab to up the tension and the voltage will increase. I stopped at 13.75 volts. Everything seems happy. Increase the electrical load and make sure the voltage stays close to your no load adjustment. If it does, shut her down, disconnect the battery and reinstall the cover. Don't put the cover on with the battery connected!! Next issue!!!

 

And have a beer!

 

A six pack, make it Coors Banquet, cold!! I did!!!

 

When I was in high school in the late 60's/early 70's Coors was not available here yet.
There were some older brothers of my cl***mates that drove eight f#@king hours from Portland to who knows where Idaho for Coors, now I like Coors well enough but..............

 

I was a Miller guy for along time. Took some pics. The problem child regulator!!!

 

No, spark to the field!

Keep in mind that those RPM numbers are almost always engine RPM, not the actual generator/alternator. Typical RPMs of the generator or alternator are two to three+ times engine RPM depending on application. Your combo is about 1.4 times engine speed. The slower ratios are generally only seen on engines that turn high RPM (6K or more), most 'normal' cars will be about 3X.

The slower generator speeds came into being when motors became capable of turning these high RPMs and excessive generator speeds would cause them to throw windings off the armature or explode the commutator. The downside was in slow-speed driving they wouldn't charge very well. Alternators are immune to this due to their design/construction and the slower ratios are usually only used today to save horsepower so are generally only found on race cars.

 

Nope can't polarize the generator field only the armature! My car is proof!! When you arch the armature a small sound comes from the generator just before the arch. Do a Google search. When you look it up Google calls it the field/armature. Kinda misleading!!

 

The whole deal sets the direction of current. Don't polarize and the system can discharge the battery. No wonder they went to alternators. I was tempted to do the same. Then I finally understood how a old regulator controls the voltage. The field has no polarity. Who the hell figured that out?

 

Looks like the field only makes or breaks ground to control the magnetic field, which in turn varies the generator output. See what I mean, how the hell did they ever figure that out,??

 

That is correct. And that magnetic field (supplied with DC power that determines polarity) is what allows the armature to produce power. When you apply power to the armature, it attempts to run like a motor but can't because that brief connection can't supply enough power as well as having minimal magnetic field strength, which is the noise you hear. The armature has no polarity, it's producing AC current which constantly de-magnetizes it as it turns.

That 'arm' wire from the generator to the regulator 'arm' terminal is simply to tell the regulator what the output voltage is so the regulator can adjust voltage to the field to bring total voltage into spec. It has zero to do with generator polarity.

 

If you want to get into weeds as to how these work...
https://www.google.com/search?q=how...75vWhy_EFCO8OO-b1ocs&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Figured it out myself. That's why it works now! But thanks. Time to enjoy the coupe.

 

Put 50 miles on the coupe. Went to a small get together up in Star at the Albertsons parking lot. About 30 cars , all styles. Nice cars and great people.
Everybody came down to see the new car. Liked by everyone. Only one guy ask me what color am I going to paint it! Found one thing I didn't like, gears to low plus the straight cut gears whined something terrible. So I just put in the Winters helical gear set. Went from 4.11 to 3.48. Plan to use the straight cut gears at the strip. As soon as the weather gets nice I will try again. Lower the cheater slick pressure, and put a little more tow in on the front end. Looks like this weekends weather will be good. There's a show at the local high school. Might be her first!

 

Coming up.

https://firebirdonline.com/events/46th-oldies-but-goodies/

 

I will be there. I called the track about a month ago, talked with Scott New, track owner. Told him about my coupe. Particularly the lack of a blow proof bel housing. Told him all the details, he went to his safety guy. I am aloud to run. Just no 10 second p***es. I don't think it would be that fast. So weather permitting I will get my first time slip in 25 years.

 

Figured you'd be all about that, have fun.
By the way, Woodburn is having their 50th Oldies But Goodies event June 26-28.
Would be a great shakedown run for your coupe, it's only an eight hour drive.

 

ONLY! Don't think I am ready for that!

 

Put in the helical spur gears from Winters. I can hear myself think! Made a huge improvement. Was 4.11 now I chose 3.48. Nice gear for bopping around. Put the straight cut gears aside for drag racing. Worst part is putting the lube back in the rear. Takes awhile. Makes a mess if spilled!!!

 

I don't know about you but rear gear lube stinks in my world.

 

COVID took my sense of smell. Not so bad when doing the gear lube!