Glass Replacement After Chop Top...Tolerances??

Well, We're getting down to the end of my chop top on my '51 Plymouth as seen here..

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231864&highlight=******knuckles

..with that being said it's time for gl*** to be cut. I will make templates from 1/4" plywood. What are the acceptable tolerances between the gl*** and the pinch weld metal? I believe about a 1/4" but I would like to know from people with expierience.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


******Knuckles

 

Back Up.

******Knuckles

 

1/4"? Yes? No?

Anyone??


******Knuckles

 

I'm not sure exactly what the clearance was when i did my 53 chevy..but it was a little more than i thought it was going to be. And i think it was a little more than 1/4"..
The clearance may be different for different car's as well only due to the thickness of the weatherstripping. I'm not sure if the're would be a general measurement.
I made a template out of lexan, and installed it in the rubber that i was using for the real windshield, then installed everything into the car to 'fit' it..as if it was gl***
LOTS of in and out to make it fit right, but it made thing's very easy when i had the gl*** installed.

 

1/4" yes...just don't leave yourself more than half off your shelf! (width of the flange)

 

What do you mean? I'm a bit slow.


******Knuckles

 

The way mine have been done (a local guy does them) I make my template by tracing the pinch weld then he takes them, takes 1/4" off those lines (makes the window 1/4" smaller where it touches the pinch weld) and then installs it. Little grinding for it to **** up in the center....49-51 Mercs and Fords, but should be the basic idea. Hope this helps.

 

First, take a look at the type of window gasket you are using!
The "old style" ones, like the originals, mount the gl*** slightly in front of the pinchweld. So the gl*** is about the same size as the opening of the pinchweld.
A lot of the newer gaskets, or "universal" gaskets are different...some you can tell by the fact that they have a lock-strip that you install last to tighten up the gasket.
These gaskets mount the gl*** directly inside the pinchweld. Here you need to have a gl*** that is slightly smaller than the opening. My gl*** guy tapes 2 regular pencils together, and runs them along the pinchweld onto your pattern (keeping one pencil on the metal, the other away from it), automatically putting in the correct gap.

 

Thanks for all the info guys.
I'll let you know how it turns out.


******Knuckles

 

Merc gl*** is larger than the opening and installs from the inside using a stock gasket!

 

Mine isn't, but I don't use stock setup with the stainless/division bar.