Glue in windshield 30's Chevy vs rubber seal

that definetly sounds like it would work well, youve got good glass contact as well as metal. Also seals it up so it doesnt delaminate, that milky white look between the layers of glass. Also people that read this should realize,you are using the butyl as a dam to prevent the urethane from seeping in for a clean look inside, NOT to hold the window in.. Also Jeeps of the 90s had an inside molding that fit between the glass and the body you could use as well

 

NONAME, after reading your description of an install, I have found the clarity needed as well as the courage to proceed with installing my windshield this way. I'd still like to hear or see other options for rubber lipped seals for the rear and quarter windows, but as for the windshield install, I'm sold. Thanks!

 

I agree been using Lynn Steel rubber product for over 35 years and never ran into a single problem, I've have had luck with other companies, some good some bad.

 

Hey chevyfordman - what hardware do you use to secure the glass on the inside without glue? Any chance you know where I can buy whatever brackets/clips you use? I have a similar setup on a 1933 Chevy but no hardware came with my basket case.

 

Hey NoName - I am working on a windshield for a 1933 Chevy that installs from the inside - where can I get the L brackets you mention? Mine is missing the hardware so I don't even know what I am replacing.

 

There are no L brackets, the windshield garnish molding is what holds the windshield and windshield rubber in place. I'm sorry that I'm so late in answering your question. The quarter windows are held in the same way.

 

That's a huge help and it makes perfect sense after looking at your photo - thanks very much! Your instrument cluster looks great too - I like that layout.

 

Remember to use Steele's rubber, the ends are super glued together when the length is cut. It would help to have an extra set of hands for this. Their rubber isn't like the originals but they fit so good and look super when done. Just some extra to throw in, go to all the work and install an opening rear window, worth all the effort. I know, it takes a different piece of wood across the back, a handle, an opening mechanism, a trough, felt and etc. but you will love yourself in the end for doing it.

 

I glued / bonded all the glass (except the wind up windows in the doors) on my 39 Chev coupe..
The front and rear screen were cut to a pattern to fit on the outer 3/8'' body lip, with the edge of the glass being taper ground to about 45 degrees, and the middle edge of the front screen ground to a nice close taper fit in the centre, and sealed with clear silicone, with no chrome centre strip fitted.
The side glass at the rear, and quarter glass in the doors were glued from the inside..
To hold the external glass in the right place, I made about four ''S'' shaped hooks out of 1/16'' welding wire for each glass pane, placed them over the body lip at the top and bottom (to the outer edge of the glass) of the window frame, sat the glass in them and sealed / glued around the whole glass, leaving about a couple of inches unsealed by the wire.
When the sealer had hardened off overnight, I removed the wire, and finished the final couple of inches..
Never had any problems with leaks or coming loose..