I have no clue how to identify them, 3 wire or 1 wire...I thought it was a 3 wire but I don't know for sure...what is this?
You have a three wire. A one wire has a built in reg. that self exites so you just uses the post on the back of the alt.
Yes, that's a 3-wire, and most likely also has a built in Regulator...a "one wire" as commonly used, will have the connections on the rear of the Alt, as opposed to the "top" like you have.
Yes, that's a 3-wire, and most likely also has a built in Regulator...a "one wire" as commonly used, will have the connections on the rear of the Alt, as opposed to the "top" like you have.
It is a Delco 12si alternator used in the 80's they ranged from 56amp to 94amp three wire internal regulated. You can make it a one wire by changing the regulator Transpo #D10se12. Hope this helps
Yes,it's a 3 wire and it does have a built in regulator, the earlier alt. with the external regulator has a square plug. You can make a one wire out of it by jumping the wire at the plug with the #2 on it to the main hot. The other wire is for the idiot light, I always take it out and use a wire off the fuse panel that is hot when the switch is on for the volt guage. Most 1 wire alternators are 47 amp, they first used them on conversions on tractors to replace the generator, according to a guy at O'Reilly's.
Anyone have a wiring diagram, or advice for the 3 wire method? Search function isn't working for me at all...keep getting an error.
Deyomatic, if you don't find a diagram, from memory here is the way I would wire it. The heavy red wire in the rec. plug I think is the stator wire, take it and loop it over to the outlet stud with the red insulator ( should be marked batt. You need a heavy red wire from same post going back to positive battery source for charging. The small brown wire is I think a field wire and needs to go to a 12 volt source that comes on with the ign when in run position. The field wire can not be on the same circuit that goes to the coil or it won't shutoff when ign. is turned off. That can be worked around by putting a diode in the field wire to prevent backfeeding. Like I said before, I am going from memory here and it has been a long time, so a diagram might be a good idea.
440Roadrunner, pretty much they way I remember it good picture, except about that SNAFU, I never seen or heard of that and I went to GM training school on the alts. the year they came out with them and they did not mention any hybrids. If they really existed, they are a rare bird, I would not of thought the old brush rack would have even bolted into the new case, and seems like I remember that the little square plug for the external reg. plugged into the brush rack, could be wrong on that though, it has been a long time.
Alright...I'm a wiring dummy so just to be sure... 440, are you saying that whether I have a 1 or 3 wire it can be wired the way your photo shows? I take the 10 ga wire and hook that to the same post on the starter where the battery terminal cable attaches, right? As for the "load" side of the ignition...what I have now is the old voltage regulator for the Ford generator (12v if that matters). All of the wires are still in place for this very reason. Is there a wire coming off of that regulator that I can splice onto number 1 with a diode inline? Thanks.
Your right but a true 1 wire alternator has a self exciting reg. I've put may of them in And you don't use the oyher two wires. I've done this alot. The ? was is this a three wire or a one wire by the pics it's a three wire.
To further confuse, here is a 10-SI externally regulated 3 wire. Using advise I got here on the HAMB from 440 ROADRUNNER, I wired it up to a Mopar regulator, using 1 wire to the battery, and 1 wire to the regulator, and 1 wire to ground... "Or---if you want to simplify the wiring, buy one for a 62-69 Dodge/ Plymouth. It will be marked, ign--to a good solid switched ignition point, and the other goes to F on the Delco, leave R unhooked. Make sure the regulator is well grounded."
The picture of the "correct" one wire diagram above is wrong. The # 2 wire should go to the main power distribution location, or the same point as the #10 gauge feed, not just jumped or shorted to it at the back of the case. This #2 is a voltage sensor, and allows the alternator to keep the approximate 14.2 Volt output at the distribution point, not just at the output. This takes care of any voltage drop that might be present between that point and the alternator. (Your system might need 15 volts out of the alternator to have 14.2 at the dash, gauges, etc). It's just one more #14 wire that can make a big difference in your electrical system and is the way GM intended their very well designed 10SI/12SI alternators to work on vehicles. The "one wire" systems are Ok for their intended stationary/industrial applications, but not the best for normal vehicle requirements. The heavy #10 gauge output wire is OK for about 60-70 amps or so, but if you are running a 12SI near 100 amps, using a #8 gauge wire would ensure minimum voltage loss. Take some time and go to http://www.madelectrical.com/ , open "electrical tech", and learn more about alternators, and the pros and cons of "one wire". Mark Hamilton has put together a wealth of info on this and other subjects. (Yes, I converted my one-wire 10SI to the stock 3-wire after l spent some time learning more about their operation.) Bob
"The # 2 wire should go to the main power distribution location, or the same point as the #10 gauge feed, not just jumped or shorted to it " Someone forgot to tell GM this. I,ve got a couple Plugs that came this way from GM
Does anyone know how to install an "exciter" wire to a one wire gm alternator? I changed my 6 volt ford tractor over to 12 volts and used a one wire alternator. I have to rev the engine every time I start it to get the alt to charge. I know there is a way to add an exciter wire that energizes the field to around 1.5 volts to start it charging as soon as the engine fires without having to rev it up. Would appreciate any information or related experience anyone could share. Thanks,
You would have to change the regulator and wire it like Medic Customs posted that 440Roadrunner had posted some time ago. If the tractor had a Magneto ignition you would have to figure out how to get a switched 12 V to the exciter wire though. That would also be a switch that you had to remember to shut off when you shut the tractor off. I for one have never understood the fascination with one wire alternators. The only advantage on a car is that you only have the one wire to hide. Other than that it's all disadvantage in that you normally have to gun the engine to excite them and get them to charge and in the long run they seem to give more trouble than the ones wired as 440 Roadrunner showed. I've hooked dozens of them up that way and never had an issue. Originally, as someone mentioned earlier the one wire units were sold to convert farm equipment to 12V when the farm equipment's engines had a magneto ignition and didn't operate off a key.
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