GM G body Subframe extended A arms?

I recently sub framed a 1959 chevy pickup with a 1984 olds cutlass(metric). I feel that this is a good sub frame to use however I don't think there is enough documentation on its narrow track width or a arm options. I find the old's(metric) track width too narrow as compared to the stock truck wheelbase. I have been looking for options to correct the narrow track width and have found that fat man fabrication makes 3" extended length upper and lower a arms for around $950 ouch! I kinda want to go this route but price is hindering. Wondered if anyone has any ideas on do it yourself a arm fab possibly a jig set up. I know this is the metric frame used in circle track racing however few offer extended length with tubular options. I have thought about wheel spacers but would rather have the a arms. Any ideas?

 

You can buy "build-up" control arms from the circle track industry. Basically a ball joint mount socket and clevis assembly that you add your own tubes to. Doesn't require welding, all the connections are threaded.

 

I think that if you managed to sub frame an old truck, extending a pair of arms aint gonna be all that difficult.
Are you sure is necessary thou? I think its nice to see a wheel well tucked inside the fenders on old cars, unless theyre race cars, or have a sporty look, but customs/cruiser look great w/ lotsa tuck.

 

This is why most go with a Camaro/Firebird clip, the G body is to narrow and there is really no cheap way to fix it correctly and maintain proper geometry.

 

Well, since it is possible to narrow the track of older intermediate/Camaro subs by using metric parts, I assume the reverse is true. Use pre-78 intermediate or Camaro arms and knuckle assembly - track should increase by 2.5 inches.

 

You could run 67-69 camaro lowers (switching left to right and right to left) and uppers from an impala, year i don't remember, to move them out about an 1 1/2" per side; but this also moves the wheelbase forward by about the same. I think these are the correct measurements. You would still need to do some fabrication to get the wheel base corrected. On the uppers you can cut the mount off and put it where you need it for caster and camber adjustment.

 

Thanks for the input fellas, will continue my quest for the answer and or cash for it.

 

this is interesting I wonder if you can use the stock type spring shock as coil overs will raise costs and damper lifetime shocks at local parts stores. I have been working on this hunt but havent found a mfg yet. I will keep looking and thanks again.

 

You can change to a larger 12" rotor using the 78-88 B-body spindles and a 1LE rotor, but you need tubular upper control arms for the correct spindle geometry. This will gain you 5/8'-3/4" per side.