Technical GM Phillips head door hinge screws

I have a #3 bit with impact no luck busting loose. Seen a #7 bit on the web but have to order 50 bucks minimum. Any suggestions.


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A good drill bit?

 

I'm restoring a 53 Cad , same problem . I ended up using an air hammer chisel to break them loose , got some replacement screws from a donor car. heat also works well , if you can get them red hot and let them cool before trying to breakem loose .If the phillips head is gouged out , you can mig weld a hex nut to the head , turn them with a wrench , welding heat will break the rust free

 

I bought the largest impact philips head bit they had at Home Depot and used my battery impact gun to break mine free on my 47 Olds. Worked great on all but one. I had to drill that one out.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...Steel-Insert-Bits-5-Pack-48-32-4663/202653568

 

I have been known to drill the heads of them then extract what was left after the fact. I use a center drill to start with. then hit them with a drill bit a little larger then the shank of the screw. The head will actually crawl up the bit when you are almost onto the hinge.

What you are left with is a good center for drilling or sometimes you can worry them out with a pair of vise grips.

 

I was a bodyman since 1971. We used a hand held impact driver with an impact socket thst accepts 3/8th inch number 3 Philips tip. Use a lighter ballpene hammer to smack the driver and hold dead square to the screw. If you use a heavier hammer, you chance damage to the door or jam.

I've never had one that would come out. Never had to drill, etc. We were on commission, so time was critical.

Dave

 

on my 53 the Hinge will not open wide enough to allow a square hit with Impact Driver,

 

This is the method I use, as stated before heat the screws up red hot, after they cool I squirt 'em with FreezAll (that's not a correct spelling, sorry)or your favorite lube choice, then I use the tool pictured below that I made, I cut apart an air chisel tool, a 3/8 extension and welded them together as shown, then put the tool in your air chisel and hit it in bursts until it breaks free, I've got them loose where the manual hammer didn't even touch it, I guess that vibration is the key to loosen them up, I go both clockwise and counter clockwise just like you have to do using a wrench on a stubborn bolt. I think I got this idea either on here or on Garage Journal, I can implement good ideas, just don't have a lot of originality of my own On my Studebaker I replaced the screws with a socket head screw, I know it's not original, no one can tell at 60 MPH

 

ive gotten them loose by first getting them cherry red. then crank

 

I used the bit adaptor and # 3 bit from a hand held impact screw driver and a 3/8 to 1/2 socket adaptor with a 1/2 in air impact wrench. Got all 16 out and saved every one. PB Blaster is your friend.

 

Heat 'em up, don't have to be cherry red, touch a candle to them. You'll be amazed how the wax will wick into the threads. Works on all sorts of things.

 

I have a tool very similar to what vtx1800 showed. In the aviation industry it is called an "old man", yes they are sold at places that specialize in aviation tools. The only time I have to drill the screw is when the head is completely stripped. The old man rarely let's me down.

 

The tool shown above with a bit of valve grinding compound on the bit will usually shift them. Never met one that won against the oxy-acetylene as well.

 

Heat them up one at a time, once cooled a couple minutes turn it out. Removed 10 that way on my chev. Heat is a real time saver

 

Had the same problem with the hinge screws on my model A. Since I was going to replace them, I didn't care about destroying them. Ended up welding nuts with the same inner diameter as the screw heads to the screws. It heats the screws + you get at good grip on them with a wrench.

 

I thought they were #4 Phillips?

what year car is it?

 

I will try heat spray lube and #4 impact bit this weekend. 64 bel air wagon



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If you've been using a #3 bit, that is not helping.

I don't recall ever having any trouble getting them out using the correct size bit on the end of a ratchet.

 

You need to come to the Midwest (I've lived in New Mexico so I understand why you wouldn't want to come this way), I had to heat the hinge screws multiple times to get them loose on the Studebaker pictured that came out of Minnesota as well as to get some hinge screws out of a 56 Chevy door, you don't know how lucky you are to live in a dry environment when it comes to working on old cars.

 

yeah, I do...why do you think I live here?

I'm not surprised you've had trouble getting bolts out of rusty cars.

Hopefully we gave the OP enough ideas that he can get it done