Technical GM Points Distributor no sparky

I got a couple of these , one 24’ long

they work great for testing all kinds of crap on all kinds of different crap !

 

Amazon has 17 AWG in 3.3 foot lengths, alligator clamps each end, insulated. One black one red. $6.50, Prime free shipping.
E-Z way out.

 

3.3 feet. I’d guess metric for a meter?

 

I may be missing something . But isn't the black wire suppose to be on common on the meter?

 

Really doesn’t matter the color, as long as you put the red lead in the proper place. But in DC, black is commonly ground, I guess for uniformity. For continuity it makes no difference.

 

Hmmmmm . . . Should I get the 3mm ones or are the 4mm ones better? Do they make them with the clear red insulation?

 

I used a pair of forceps but the lowest it would go was 2.8 points closed, OL points open at 19 gap.
I noticed in the video it was 07 for lowest.

 

Well about 15 seconds in my girlfriend turned my son around and walked him away, after I folded the guy out of the car (t-bucket with no working doors or top) I was rudely interrupted by 3 bystanders, 2 of which were with the car next to mine, so then I yelled at them for letting the couple get in my car.

 

Ok, fine, you tested the wire, used an ohmmeter? One strand of with inside the wire making continuity with show as a complete circuit with an ohmmeter. But, that one strand of wire will not carry the load to make the circuit function. You would be amazed at the number of circuits we find at work that will pass a simple continuity test but still fail to function. I keep telling my guys that you have to load test the circuit with a device that has a sizable amp draw. A headlight works perfectly. Use jumper wires to connect the positive battery terminal to one end of the circuit in question and another jumper wire to connect from the end of the circuit in question to one of the headlight terminals and the other headlight terminal to battery ground. If the headlight is dim or fails to light, you have found you bad circuit. If the headlight shines brightly, your circuit is good.

 

Well so much for the myth that points ignitions are easy and always reliable......

Just poking a little fun guys............looks like any ignition can be problematic.

 

TRUTH......I've been using a headlight for testing for decades.

 

Disconnect the condenser and test it. I think with the condenser connected it will show some continuity.

 

Alright I took the spliced wire apart, removed the butt connector and soldered it, sanded the points, got it down to .9 points closed.
When measured at the screw that holds the coil/condenser wires it's a .1, so a little loss with wire resistance.

 

Any local parts house can get a new wire, search Distributor Primary Lead wire, https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...wire/std0/ddl29?q=distributor+lead+wire&pos=0
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHLW72?impressionRank=1

 

If I remember correctly the wire feeds through a hole and the reason I cut it to start with, not saying I couldn't put a new ring clip on it, at the time I was keeping the Crane unit.