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Hot Rods Gm Points Distributor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pearcetopher, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. Pearcetopher
    Joined: Jan 23, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Pearcetopher

    Hi Guys,

    1965 pontiac points distributor, vacuum advance does not move or hold pressure.
    How do you change one of these? I took the cap and points off but the breaker plate will not move.

    Does the distributor need to be dissasembled by removing and punching out the roll pin to do this?
    Please let me know,

    Chris
     
  2. 53chevy
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,570

    53chevy
    Member

    It should move, you also need to push the vacuum rod down with small punch like tool or similar as you slide it out. It's a good idea to mark the position if you untighten the hold down plate. Allowing you to rotate the distributor to a better position.
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  3. Pearcetopher
    Joined: Jan 23, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Pearcetopher

    The vacuum advance cannot go any lower , meaning I think you have to move the breaker plate to get it up and out , can anyone confirm
     
  4. 57 HEAP
    Joined: Aug 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,288

    57 HEAP
    Member

    I have always taken out the vacuum canister mounting screws and pull the point mounting plate around with the vacuum canister. Then rotate the "L" shaped rod that connects the canister to the point plate and out it comes.
     
  5. Squirt some WD around the breaker cam, and work it back and forth. It's not supposed to come out in it's normal position.You have to pull it towards you.
    Better take it apart. Gummed up.
    Yes, just drive the pin out. De-burr the hole, and use some carb spray.
     
  6. Pearcetopher
    Joined: Jan 23, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Pearcetopher

    Guys, thank you so much.
    I changed the vacuum unit today. However when re timing the vehicle i loosened off one of the back bolts on the intake manifold to make the distributor bolt easier to get to, and, coolant came shooting out so I did it back up.

    Do i now need intake manifold gaskets or an oil change?
     
  7. No. Use a 9/16 , 3/8 drive flex socket, and a long extension next time.
     
  8. 53chevy
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,570

    53chevy
    Member

    Yes change the gasket. Just like my 389 in my '60 Pontiac, it's pretty straight forward. Luckily the distributor mounts into the block. I've done mine it so many times, now it's no big deal. Yes, like others said, get the GM style flex dwell/points flex shaft tool. Do you have a cast iron or aluminum intake? I'm have an old Weiand intake for the 55-64 engines and use a NOS by Offenhauser gasket which are the best, b/c of thickness. For the original cast iron, the originals with the metal part for the exhaust cross over or the ones by Best.
     
    Model A Vette likes this.
  9. 53chevy
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,570

    53chevy
    Member


    Also, No oil change is needed. Mine have two bolts (mine are staggered) and '65 later have one. The intake bolts need to be torqued/tighten accordingly. this happened when I got my Pontiac years ago and failed to do that. Which goes without saying the carb has to be removed, but is no big deal. Just drain from radiator pea****, not completely, but enough to remove intake. But, if it's been in there for a few years and Summer is around the corner, might as well change that to an ideal coolant/water ratio.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2017
  10. Why? You aren't going to lift that big cast iron SOB with gravity water pressure , by loosening one rear bolt.
    Grab a long handle box wrench and sock it back down.
    Of course, if you want to practice changing intake gaskets, don't listen to me. Have fun , and get a shop manual that deals with drawing the intake forward. Don't do that right, and you WILL have a leak to fix.
     

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