Hot Rods Gm solenoid starting problem

Dielectric grease is kind of weird stuff. When it's applied sparingly on electrical terminals it will not interfere with current flow as long as the terminals make a proper metal to metal connection. But it will insulate the terminals from moisture and corrosion and prevent current flow to grounds or other wiring.

A little dab on plastic connector bodies and rubber weather-pack type seals will also keep out moisture and make them easier to unplug at a later time. Same goes for rubber spark plug boots too.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2021/04/25/what-is-dielectric-grease-why-or-where-should-you-use-it/

 

Onn back of ignition writch there is the red wire that is always hot at 12v when to turn the key to start position that engages the purple wire to 12v through the bulk head connector where the engine harness plugs into. The harness has the purple wire that connects to the solenoids S terminal. When I that purple wire is connected to the S terminal and key is in the start position it measures 7v , but will not start or make any clicking noise after turning the key to start position numerous times it will register 12v and engages the solenoid and start. I took it to a starter shop (not Auto Zone or Pep boys) said no problem with the starter or solenoid.

 

Okay, we are not communicating. How are you measuring the voltage? Are you using a hand held voltmeter? If so, where do you have the voltmeter leads connected?

 

Voltmeter. black to ground red to the wire I am testing. And meter set to green V 9v

 

So if you turn the key to start and check the voltage at the ignition switch start terminal, do you measure 7 volts (the purple wire connected to the starter)? With the key still in the start position, does the ignition switch feed wire stay at or close to 12 volts?

 

I'm going to say one last thing, NEVER FREAKING ***UME. When you ***ume that the battery is good or ***ume that the starter is good without actually taking them and having them tested or testing them with proper and appropriate test equipment, you are beating your head up against the wall and getting no where.
Make sure that your meter is actually on the correct setting. If you have a 12 Volt battery y ou have to have the voltage meter part set at above 12 volts DC. The meter scale should be 20 or 30 volts normally.

= Voltage drops from 12 to 7 volts at the S post of the starter when you turn the key to start, what is the voltage on the post that the cable runs to? Simply meaning, you may have a battery that shows 12 V static but the moment you put an actual load on it it drops down to 7 volts.
The next time you try to crank it feel each battery cable connection to see if any are getting hot. Heat in and electrical system = resistance or excess resistance. Especially check the grounds.
Take the battery out and take it and have it tested if you don't find something obvious.
Same with the starter, if it doesn't want to spin when you byp*** the key switch by jumping across the poles with a screwdriver or with a remoter starter ****on take the thing off and go have it tested on proper test equipment. Do not ***ume that it is good.

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