I've read a lot about it. I've ordered a rebuild DVD, a rebuild kit, and a shift improver kit. I'll post pics when they arive and I tear into it. Any advice while I wait for the parts to show up?
Go slow when tearing it down. Keep order of the parts. Make sure all parts are cleaned well and dried with compressed air. Leave the valve body for the last to be cleaned and reassembled. You will need a clutch spring compressor of some sort. I made one out of some 1/4" thick metal and a couple of bolts. Before reinstalling the valve body, air check the bands and clutches for proper action by applying compressed air in the appropriate ports. This box is really a great starter transmission rebuild to be doing. I myself have seen carbs that are more complicated than this transmission. Good luck.
Make sure you know if it a per 1970 or 1970 on up trans. early trans has a 24 spline input shaft and the later ones have a 26 spine input shaft. Also the later trans have larger clutch packs. Unless it an early Hipo trans. The hipo will have a large "C" on the servo cover and the standard duty will have a large "A" on the servo cover.
Saw a guy tear apart a "just rebuilt" trans that wouldn't run right once that was full of red lint from shop towels. Had a great time cleaning it up. Stick a large dowel rod off the side of something in your shop, as it comes out, hang it on the rod, assemble in reverse.
Full of red lint? Lol, that would really suck. I've got a box of lint-free shop towels. Thanks for the heads-up oldcarfart and rom828.
I ran the code on the data tag last night. It's a D0, 1970, trans that came out of a 71 Torino originally (PEE V2). From what I've read, there was a one year only trans in 1970 that had a 26 spline input and a 26 spline output. From 71-81 they used a 26 spline input and a 24 spline output. I have a driveshaft yoke that fits this C-4, the C-4 in my tuck now, and also fits a World Class T-5 that I have. Not to sound completely ignorant, but if the yoke fits, the output shaft splines have to match, right? So if they match, then I would have a 71 and later transmission even though the trans code is says 1970, right?
Are you talking about the input shaft splines? both ends of it? I think that's the one year only thing. Where did you find the D0 number? if it's cast into most of the trans parts, it could be from any time in the 70s, they used the same casting numbers for more than one year.
In regards to the splines, I'm not exactly sure what I'm talking about. I just read that there was a one year only trans in 1970 that had a 26 spline input shaft and a 26 spline output shaft where the earlier ones had 24 splines on both ends and the later ones had 24 on one end and 26 on the other. Right now, I don't remember which end had 24 and which had 26. I found the D0 number on a little steel tag.
The D0 trans was the oddball of the C4s. It should have a 26 spline input and a 26 spline tail shaft. The issue with this trans is that it is the only C4 with the 26 spline tail shaft and it is harder to find a yoke. But if you have a yoke that fits you should not have any issue. You need the casting number which is located on the left side of the trans right under the area of the shift lever. The code- C4, C5, C6, C7, C8 and C8 - are all 24 input and 24 tail shaft D0 - are 26 input and 26 tailshaft D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, D7, D8 and D9 - are 26 input and 24 tail shaft. The tag numbers are the number you need to find out what it was out of and for ordering parts. If you post a picture of the tag or the numbers I can find out what you have.
The top line is PEE V2, which from what I find says it came out of a 1971 Torino with a 302. The bottom line is D00PD H5B. Thanks for your help.
Don't sweat it, they are not hard, and require no special tools. Did my first one at age 18, out of necessity in my parents garage. I got a B&M rebuild kit and followed the instructions. It was the best shifting transmission I ever had... Then I started making more HP and had a "professional" transmission built from out of state. I'm not at all happy with it, so I think I'm going to build my own again.
Great info here...I did a torqueflite 904 first time, my partner in the shop showed me a trick (he was a tranny man) ...that sounds a little funny... He took the clutch pack to the drill press, put a 6" piece of 1/2" cold rolled bar in the chuck, and used it as a 'press' to compress the cover in the drum while he popped the snap ring out. Neat trick... Also: measure the thickness of your used clutches before just replacing them. If they look good (not burnt) and are the same thickness as the new ones, leave them. The old soaked ones (if clean and in good shape) are more desireable than dry, new ones. I also liked the idea above with the dowel (broomstick, etc.) Hang it securely and slide pieces (spacers, etc.) on in that order; clean them as you remove them to install, in the reverse order of disassembly. The HAMB is your best resource. Great handbook. (HAMBOOK???)
look at the cast engineering numbers, and also look to see if you can find any casting date codes. The engineering numbers are cast into many of the parts, they start with something like C4AP or D0AP, the first character is decade (C=1960, D=1970), the second is the year. So most of the C4 transmissions have parts that were first used either in 1964 or 1970, but some of the parts were changed, if you find a later date number then it's probably from then or perhaps a year or two newer. Valve bodies changed a lot, and might give you useful info.
PEE V2 - is a 1971 Torino Column shift tarns. D00PD H5B - Built 1970, August 5th, Second shift. You have an early 1971 trans. You have an early 1971 model year trans.
I can't thank you guys enough. Seriously, this place is one of my favorites. So, I started the disassembly tonight. I can't get the reverse servo out of the case. The cover came off fine, but the servo itself won't pop out. I can get it to turn, and it's moved outward a little but it won't come out. The front servo came right out. What am I missing? Oh yeah, I have 28 splines on my output shaft. Not 24 or 26. My T-5 yoke fits it as does my other C-4 yoke. What shaft are they talking about that has 24 or 26 spline on the output shaft?
Also, I've determined that when I mount a dial indicator on the input shaft and check endplay (endfloat) between the sun gear and the drum, I measure .042". According to what I can find, endplay should be between .008" and .042". I'm at the high limit should I correct this to .02", or leave it as is?
Well, I got it all apart. Some of the thrust washers are pretty worn. I did get the reverse servo out. Do any of you know the spec for the outer diameter of the reverse servo shaft plunger or the inner diameter of the shaft bore? There seems to be a cross hole in the bore and once the larger diameter of the plunger hits that cross hole, it binds up tight. The video I have shows the reverse servo coming out rather easily. I can ream the bore to open up the hole to allow the plunger to move freely. I just don't want to open it up too far. I guess I could just open the bottom of the bore to match the top of the bore.
BTTT for the AM guys. This binding shaft thing has me worried, I'd like to have an answer ASAP. I have a second transmission that I could take the case and servo from, but it is still in the truck. I knida wanted to get this thing put back together and just swap the transmissions when I get to that point.
BTTT, anyone have an answer to the bore size question? I've got an adjustable .500" reamer. Looks like I'll just open it up a little at a time until the servo plunger moves freely.
No more interest huh? Well, I guess I'll post this to help anyone that might stumble upon it in the future. I borrowed a bore mic from work yesterday on my lunch break. I ran home and mic'd the bore. .5012" at the top, .5022" at the bottom. WTF?? I got to thinking, "if the bore isn't undersized at the bottom, then what's catching up on the servo piston?". Turns out, the piston was slightly bent. Fortunately, I had found another C-4 on Craigslist for $50 on Saturday and finally got a hold of the guy yesterday. I went up there to buy it and he sold it to me for $15.00, YES $15.00! It's obviously been sitting outside for a bit, it's got some water inside the case as I'm taking it apart, but for $15.00, I can't lose. I immediately pulled the reverse servo out of the new trans and it slid right into the old case. The new trans is a PEA CE ('77 F100 with a 300 or 302) built D7TP (April '77). The full code on the tag is PEA CE B9C on the top line and D7TP APA on the bottom. It looks to me like it might be an older rebuild. The bellhousing and cases are extremely clean, just slightly dusty. The bellhousing and cases on the old one were caked in hard dirt everywhere. I'll keep posting as I find more.
Actually I have been following - I have a c4 in the yard and I'm thinking it may be a good exercise as a first rebuild Please continue
So, I have another question about endplay that I hope someone will answer. One trans has a #1(.072") thrust washer at the front pump, the other has a #2(.089"). Both trans have a #2(.057") stator to forward drum washer. When checking endplay with a dial indicator I get roughly .040" on both transmissions. I checked endplay before I even took the pump out, but I have a video that shows the guy checking it without the direct drum in, just the forward drum. If I'm at .04" will a #3(.074") stator to forward drum washer close up the endplay by .017", or would I use the #2 front pump washer where the #1 was? Hope this makes sense.
i would replace reverse servo last time i bought one it was about 15 dollars. buy a builders book from a transmission parts house they give you alot of info on year part changes
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