Good quality starter solenoid?

If it's the 3rd one in a year , then maybe you have something else wrong that is frying all those solenoids . Have you considered that one yet ?
Have you bought one from a Dealer yet ? They usually carry the better parts .
Just a thought !

Retro Jim

 

I had trouble with Ford type solenoids years ago. A friend was an Echlin rep and he sent it off to them for a postmortem. They said it had corrosion that resembled that of car wash soap. I put black silicone over the metal cover and never had a problem again from them.

 

Echlin from NAPA has historically been some of the best electrical parts made.

 

Yep. Go Echlin. Shield it from moisture, but don't cover it so tight as to trap condensation in.

 

I'd also recommend Echlin but with todays manufacturing I think it's a **** shoot as to where ANYTHING is being built and along with that goes the quality.

Frank

 

If you have a Ford style solenoid, try a marine supply store. I used them on my stock cars and never had one go bad on me and they saw some abuse. Standard Products used to make a good one too.

Bob

 

NAPA - Echlin Part # ECH ST84. Price = $ 26.82. This is an EXCELLENT part, made in U.S.A. and made of Steel not Plastic.
No matter what the application, I won't use anything else.

Good luck.

VR&C. (Mark).

 

Damn , I will have to keep that in mind . A part made in the USA !

Retro Jim

 

Niehoff >>>>.

 

ST84 is grounded base...right for Ford from around '51 or 2 up with hot type 2 wire switch ****on. If earlier with single wire grounding switch, NG. One that looks right with insulated base is st85, 12 V for continuous use in a golf cart...I suspect that makes it super HD. It has 4 terminals for some reason, but otherwise looks Ford, and will presumably work with early switch.
A really ugly plastic one, ST56, is listed as insulated base, replacing Ford 59D-11450; this means it is the actual replacement for Early Ford 12V buses. Probably the right choice, but looks like it should be in a Mustang.

 

I replaced my fried solenoid with one from Napa...Im guessing it was Echlin..its been on there for 3 years w/ no problems..

 

Why buy anything from China????

 

The cheap ones (all that you can buy anymore, just about) have a plastic piece that the main bar inside rides on. When that breaks, the solenoid shorts out and you're left with a piece of junk.

I've always had good luck getting one from cars in the junkyard. It's a pretty safe bet that they didn't end up there for a bad solenoid.

 

Any cheapskates ever drill out the rivets, flip over that internal contact disc and bolt it back together?

Not that I would ever do that...

 

Kevin, Standard or Blue Streak, and of course the Echlin already mentioned, I quess what we are trying to say is go to Napa, BDM

 

Uh, because they make everything

 

Bruce, the 12v one for continus use might not be the best choice for a starter relay. Starter relays for 12v are not a 12 v relay, they actually are like an 8 volt. The reason being a 12v relay might not have the pulling power to stay engaged when the battery voltage drops to 8 or 9 when the starter is cranking. The lower voltage one will hit hard when you first engage it at 12v, and stay engaged when the voltage drops during cranking, but will overheat if used as a continuos relay.

 

I really felt like the problem I was having with solenoids was because I used the car wash on the motor of my roadster quite often back then and Echlin saying the the corrosion resembled car wash soap told me that that was the problem. Silicone on the metal plate cured the problem and reinforced my blame of the car wash.

 

I had trouble with every one I bought & I bought all of the above solenoids. I ended up going to a salvage & bought one that said Made In USA on it & it has been on the truck for several years. Just bought one for the drag car & am working on too.

 

Standard SS558



made in China.

At least the box was printed in the USA. Not like the Rodder's Journal...

 

I have a collection of real Ford ones with the push****on on the bottom...when I need one, first thing I'll do is give them a tryout on the car.
My '48 Ford's original one started making trouble when it was about 20. I knew enough to test continuity, but not enough to worry about resistance...so I didn't consider it a suspect in my poor cranking power. One day after a failure to start when hot, I touched it. Lost some skin, learned a LOT about resistance in a second! Presumably its contacts were burned...
Good info on the voltage need!
Thought the truck was a '49...guess its a '51 or 2 with the grounded base solenoid.

Country of origin may be moving beyond our control as manufacture of widgets moves overseas to keep companies compe***ive...we won't be able to find new low-tech electrical stuff from the USA soon, I bet. The question will become...does the company selling the stuff have quality control over the stuff? Some of our familiar labels will become just brands happily selling us junk, some will stay in some kind of control and sell us trustwrthy parts, I hope.
Labeling is already openly becoming very deceptive on origins...we may not even know.
The Chinese aren't incapable of making good stuff, they just aren't planning to waste their time on doing things right when Americans will happily buy ****, over and over again.

 

Mercruiser unit 89-96054T unit is small stainless, they are also used by Kenworth paccar. They work quite well.

 

NOSURF, your killing me buddy, its O.K. I have a new favorite, MERCRUISER!!

 

I am having a problem right now as well. I think I am headed to the marine parts store to get one that is sealed. OMC or Merccruiser. My solenoid is located in the leg of the '32 k member, and clearly gets wet on rainy days.

Jay

 

I worked at a truck fleet shop long ago. They had medium duty dump trucks with an oil filled, 100% duty cycle solenoid to run all the "key on" accessories. So, the solenoid was on all the time the truck was running. Never replaced one either.

The trucks were mid to late 70s Internationals. mounted on the firewall and looks like a can type solenoid, but it's all metal.

 

F&J, can you access a part number, per chance????

 

I tried looking for a replacement International part, but no luck.


Here is a google hit on "continuous duty solenoid"...but there is no info on if oil filled (sure looks like it), and most importantly NO info on amps rating! You need to make sure it can handle the amp loads.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...uty-Solenoid-BWD_18970418-P_N3063C_A|GRP2020A____

Other uses are winch solenoids, also snowplow and golf cart solenoids. Some of the ones I saw on google are small black plastic ones that can't be oil filled.

 

If ya have more trouble with yer new one Kevin....try Cole Hersee. They make more solenoids than anyone....high amp, continuous duty, muliple poles...whatever..
http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm