Anyone do a 4-link? I was looking at this on ePay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weld-On-tri...ir-bags-air-ride-suspension-kit-/261284762574 I have a friend who has a few '66 C10s and he recommends not using the pipe to C-notch the frame because it flexes too much. I will have to get one of the kits that is more substantial. Anyway, if I am going to do that and want to get air bags so I can use the box it might be a good time to address the springs anyway and just doa 4-link. The rear is out of a car with a triangulated 4 link so I have the upper arms, I would need to make lowers that will work with the frame and of course make mounts for the upper arms. Any thoughts?
Saw this on another forum... remove the rear spring hangers from the frame and flip them over and mount them to the top. Lowers the car about 5 1/2". Anyone done that here or know about this method. Doesn't cost anything but a rebuild of the bushings.
Looks like it might change the rear roll steer characteristics, although it may not be noticeable. And here's the picture for those of us who can't see things sideways
I lowered the rear of my 49 F-1 by flipping the rear spring hangers & swaping them side to side, and raising the front hangers up. Brought the rear down over 3 inches & it rides nice.
Yeah, Jim. I was thinking that the pinion angle on a stock rear might need to be checked but as I am using a 'new' rear I have to set it anyway. I am just looking for a good riding truck, don't really need the air bagged look, although that is cool. I would leave the crossmember in place as it looks like it might fles the way this one is set up. One of the posters on that forum said it rides more like a car because of how the rear shackles are placed, like a car. Plus there is no need to notch the frame. I will do more investigating, but this looks like the best bet for my needs. Mike
I've read that you need to move the hangers back about 1 1/2" when you flip them... don't know if it's true or not, but might be a thought?
I used 88 Chevy full size but cut the bed on my fleet side into a short bed but I didn't want it in the weeds wanted to pull a boat or trailer.
Hey Mac, thanks for the advice. I checked the other forum and they didn't move it back so I mocked mine up tonight and I think it will be fine. Not nearly as low but I bet it will be a good driver and look way cooler than it did stock. I have some bump stops that I will put on the bottom of the frame just in case. Now to get the rebuild kits for the shackles. Anyone know how the front ones come out? I loosed the 1/2" nut that looks like it clamps the pin but it will not budge. Doesn't look like it turns like the rear ones. In the future I may want to drop it more, this is just so I can keep on my tight schedule of driving it in April. Next major steps are: *Mount new master cyl pedal assembly/brakes *Make a crossmember for the trans *New driveline *Rewire whole truck *Fuel tank/lines *New door glass (all 4 pieces are broken) *Rebuild bench seat Of course the rad/power steering pump/carb-dist-starter etc. on engine/wheels & tires, blah blah blah...
Mt94ss, do you know what you will be using for a fuel tank? If not the stock one behind the seat. Looking great and thanks for all the updates Rich Sent from my SPH-L720 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Haven't decided on a tank yet. Heard that early Mustang tanks work. Might try a VW tank. Don't want to spend $300-500 for a tank. Even the cheap tanks have gone up since I looked in October! From $140 to $200 now. Looked at a bunch at the pick n pull but didn't find any that small. Anyone have an idea of one that will fit? Thought of putting the one from my '55 Chevy but I would have to move the crossmember and thought that might not be a great idea. Mike Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
try a full size blazer from 73-86. I put a 86 Suburban tank in my one ton, the big 40 gal, it's way too long to fit a shortbed truck
Jim, I have a long bed but there are a lot of crossmembers so the tank needs to be small. I heard that Blazer tanks worked but I only found suburbans with the side tanks. Will keep looking. Do you know how to remove the front spring bolt? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I forget how to remove the front spring bolt. When I put the suburban tank in my 57, I used a couple of the donor truck crossmembers too. I think 90 is the last year of the "old" body style Suburbans, with the rear mounted tank. Newer ones won't work
OK, just for everyone elses sake... The front spring bolt is a pin. The 1/2" nut on the lower part holds a swedge bolt that must be driven out. I removed the nut and heated the housing up and the bolt came right out. The pin for the shackle came out (towards the center of the vehicle) after I heated the housing again. What a PITA when you don't know the secret. I ruined that pin but found new ones locally at my Old Chevy parts store. New bushings and other wear parts will be replaced and that should do for the rebuild of the rear suspension. Mike
No prob. I don't remember half of what I forgot. The black is from the grease. I had the zerk off. This is the swedge bolt that needs to come out. Mike Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Playing with a Christmas present. AN Emerson version of the GoPro. It doesn't like indoor lighting at all, hope it's better out in sunlight. Was really foggy today so couldn't check it outside very well. Here is a video walk around/update on the truck. Mike
...buildin my 55 I flipped the rear spring hanger to the top of the frame,(flipping this hanger causes no clearance problems with the box/bed floor, there's room there)I used lowering shackles (which are only about 2-3" longer), placed the rearend on top of the springs; should work fine. All I had was the lowering shackles so I used them; using stock shackles you will not need the 2" lowering blocks. A gas tank from a 68-72 Nova (maybe clones) fits real well and are reasonable new if you can't find a good used one. here's the stance with motor/trans installed but no frt. tin., I used a 72 Nova front stub.
That tank looks like a good fit and it's got great capacity. I think I just threw one of those into the last scrap run I did... I'll have to check. The only problem I may have is mine is a long bed. Looks like a great option for shortys. Thanks for the posted pics. I was wondering if I was going to have clearance issues with the brackets above the frame. Would the stock shackles work better than the lowering blocks? I didn't like how my '55 drove with the blocks... seemed more bumpy. Also, you moved the shocks forward because of the tank, right? Looks like a sanitary install anyway. Pics are worth a thousand words for sure. Mike
here's my 57 one ton with the rearend swap done, and the 86 Suburban 40 gal tank installed. Has a fleetside bed over it now. Works good.
I have the same tank waiting. It looks like it'll fit in my short wheelbase frame if I move the rear crossmember, but I haven't measured anything yet. That looks fantastic. Delivered by a blind carrier pigeon.
Mike,...I think you could just use your orig. length shackles with the flip'd hangers and it'd work just fine w/o the blocks. I used the longer shackles only because they came with the truck and had no originals. As far as ride; I wouldn't think it should ride any different with or without blocks. I just used the blocks to get the ride heigth I wanted. I relocated the shocks because of the tank install but these should work fine as I've used this set-up in other trucks. I'm thinkin the rear part of your frame is the same design/dimensions as a 1/2ton; so I think the Nova tank should work. It's 16 gallons.
...you shouldn't need to move any crossmembers to install the Nova tank. If you don't flip the rear hangers; I'm not sure if that tank would fit as well w/o moving it further forward; as mine sits the fill pipe is just under the rear bedsill. I did notch the bottom of the rear bedsill about 1 1/2" for hand clearance..I'm gonna hide it with a flip-down licence plate.
I should have specified. I have the gigantic 40 gallon Suburban tank. It was free and in very good shape, so I figured I'd take it and try it. My dilemma is going to be getting the factory 0-30 ohm gauge to work with the 0-90 ohm sender. I'm surprised that the aftermarket hasn't offered up a replacement fuel gauge. Delivered by a blind carrier pigeon.
heh...you can use the 90 ohm sender with the 30 ohm gauge, it works great. It will be "full" for a long time, then it will start going down when you have about 20 gallons left in the tank.
I thought about that too. I'm only real interested in when it starts getting low anyway. Delivered by a blind carrier pigeon.
I've been driving my 57 one ton with the sender/gage like that for a couple yeas, it works fine. If you are concerned about how much gas you have, you can keep track of when you filled it last. Although the tank is so big you may not be able to afford to fill it all the way up...so it doesn't really matter how full it is, as long as the gage reads full
I have the same tank in my 57 and have the same "problem" not knowing exactly how much gas I have. Not really an issue, just have to be aware of it and deal accordingly. So far I have only run out of gas once and I knew I was pushing it. Ive had it full only once so far, and it hurt lol
The Jalopy Journal
