"Gowjobs": Depresion Era Performance and Early day hop-up tech

If he made a wheel that fit a Model A, I'd be getting an eveing job to buy a set. They are a fantastic looking wheel.

 

I'm with the "Buffalo Junkies," they are so cool for this era. Those McLaren wheels are amazing! Just the look, huh? With all of these guys lacing up all kinds of different size wheels for chopper motorcycles, you wouldn't think that it would be such a problem for someone to whip up a set. I don't recall if this has already been brought to the discussion but a fellow hamber ran this post discussing the extra dimension that the variable "springyness" of wires had on handling. Gary & Jimmy McLean of Rally America are right here in my back yard (Fresno Ca.) and know an awful lot about wire wheels, and they say ...it's complicated.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247383

 

You're right, beautiful, but pricey! I play with motorcycles too, and I could see going that route using Buchanon's over in L.A. for spokes etc., but the hubs would still be a stumbling block. I just thought that there would be something out there that was a bit higher production that could be used in a similar way.

 

Unfortunately all of those period wires (aftermarket or otherwise) are always super rare and super pricey.....unless you run '26-27 T wires or Model A wires, which are a "dime a dozen".

You might be able to start with a set of MG or Jag wire wheel knock-offs and hubs and have them re-laced with new spokes and rims to 19" or 21"...would have the right look, or close to it.

That was one of my plans anyway.

 

I need a BuffaloLEFT front hub and cap along with the two rear hubs and caps plus 4 wheels to complete my set.

 

there's a guy out here in so cal that's been making Buff's for decades. His first name escapes me right now but his last name in Manuchi. He made the set for Gabbys T back in the 90's and the guy that bought that T just had him lace up a 5th one for a spare. They're beautiful...and expensive. I can get his number if anyone wants to belly up for a set.

 

Sounds like you have quite a start to a set of buffs! If I'm reading it right, you have one hub, right?

 

You make a good point; Most of us, if the need arises, will find a way. I'm not that much into wires, but I do my own woods. Tasked to build wires from scratch would be no more difficult............. DIY costs are a fraction of paying someone else..........

 

From an old post that clicking the blue box by my name should link you to:

-Dave

 

Hey Flyin T, I hate to say this this way, but can you post the guy's number that does the Buffalos anyway? The time isn't right money wise right now, but who is to say that we (I) might need that info six months from now on another build? Might as well have it here in a semi-permanent state for future reference. And Hell, if someone sees it here and buys a set, all the better for the guy who's making them!

 

Thanks Dave! I've looked at all those alternatives so far, and it looks like we will probably go the model A 21" route. Although I have to admit, I first tried to sell this guy on the Antique Motorsports aluminum wheels! If you've ever seen a set of those in person, oh dear god they're pretty! Not super period correct though, maybe if they were painted...

 

I would like his contact info as well...don't know when I will be able to use it, but it is the eventual plan anyhow.

 

I'd guess that the bulk of Manuchi's costs come from the knock off hubs and all the hardware that goes with casting that stuff.


I'm shooting for a loose re-creation of this car...


I was thinking of running 19 inch Plymouth adjustable wires which I already have instead of the wood spokes. But the wood spokes look so right. I'm not wild about the exhaust and horn and won't be doing the same, I'm not building a tribute car, just one inspired by the look.

Gabby ran Plymouth wires on his T before he got the Buff's, but I won't be doing the same treatment with the caps and knockoffs. He used Ford Ranger hubcaps and some aftermarket spinner. Good look of the Cadillac gas tank which was the tank to run in '33 so said Gabby. It's been removed by the new owner.


I want to use a chrome cap on the wires so the look would be more like Lou Senter's car from the same era although I think his are 18 inch Fords.

Note that Senter's and Swanson's car's run cut down buckets like Isky's T, hence the term...'cut downs'.

 

Absolutely. I'll call the the guy that owns Gabby's T this weekend and get it.

 

Guess I have a better chance of building a set of Plymouth wires, I've had TWO for over 30+ years now. The great thing about them is the fact that they bolt onto 1926-27 T wire wheel hubs.

 

I was on the hunt for a set for a while and back in the mid '90's my friend and I were at the Hot August Nights Swap meet in Reno and this guy had a long *** flat bed trailer filled with wire wheels of all makes. So I start digging around and stacked 4 high were the wires I have now. I asked him what he wanted for them and he wandered over and checked them out and said 'Oh...... those aren't Ford, how 'bout 4 bucks a piece?' lol.

My friend bought a complete '26 touring body needing only the rear panel that had been pushed in and torn beyond repair for $275. It was a GOOD swap meet that year.

 

From the same thread I quoted above:

-Dave

 

Thanks, Dave. I think I may have to call him to see if he can set up my hubs/wheels for the 20T.

 

Ok, time for another rookie question. RE all the various wires being mentioned, what was the primary reason to use them? A smaller diameter to lower the car? More spokes or better construction to help reduce flex when cornering or for added strength / safety in general? A tad wider track perhaps? Thanx, Gary

 

I think this one is a hoot, too. Love the front end treatment. Got nothing good to say about the tail. Hope you can do better on that end! If you use a cut-down body, perhaps a short and narrowed bed? Or just a gas tank... or... or... Later, Gary

 

Hmmm- is that for your Laurel body?

I was gonna pick on you for building a house around a doorknob, but if it's for the Laurel I'll just hush up and wait with eager expectation !!!

 

No way, I'm going to mount the spare above the cross member as was the style in the early 30's. There is a fuel tank already behind the body. On Senter's car he uses a square tank, the other a tall slender one right next to the back of the tub and that's what I'm gonna do to. Full width T body, '33 or '34 grill and cut down hood.

This car blows me away. To me, hands down the best looking T from that era.

 

the 37kid has a Laurel body???? Yikes!

 

I believe it was because of strength, stiffness and weight (they are a tad lighter than the wood wheels if I remember right), but don't let anybody tell you would wood spoke wheels are not strong and don't flex. A good friend of mine, Bill, has been a HCCA (Horseless Carrage Club of America) member for 40+ years. Some time back in the early 1960's a friend of his from Tacoma and fellow club member, was racing his 1912 American-Underslung touring on the dirt track at Jantzen Beach Park (an old local amusment park now long gone) with a few other members when one of his wheel bearings froze up, putting the car into a 360 spin. Weeks later Bill had gone up to see him in Tacoma to pick up a few parts. He showed Bill a series of notches cut into the inner side of the spokes and preceeded to tell him where they came from. The American-Underslungs ran large 40" wheels and the spindle arms sit 4 to 6 inches inboard of the wheels. When the car went into the spin (at 40-50 mph) the wheel bowed in enough that the spindle/tie rod end nicked each of the spokes.

The car is in a private collection...and still bears the notches on each spoke.

Thought you guys would like that story.

 

Great thread...

I was obsessed with these things a little while back and collected a ton of parts... but other projects got in the way, so now it sits...
My plan is to build a full fendered 25 T roadster as it would have existed in 1933...
lowered WAY down... with raised fenders and cut down back of the body about half way to flat....
I can't afford buffalo wheels so I found a set of 19" chevy wire wheels.. I'll redrill the wood spoke hubs to fit...
the windshield I copied Gabby/Flyin-T

I'm not sure if this fits the trend or not.... these cost money in that time period...
but this is my overdrive...

and pile of parts to become a motor

 

I have been watchin' for an update on your T Zack....sorry to hear it got "back burner" status, but that does happen to guys like us....to many projects, too little time

The overdrive is perfectly period! Both the overdrives and Ruxtell 2-speed axles were popular and could most likely be found used in a wrecking yard from T or TT truck.

That windshield and RAJO are boss!

 

I'm taking a stab here, but I would say it was primarily to increase strength and loose weight. I'm sure there was a certain amount of coolness factor as well going on too. The original T wood spoke wheels were okay when the car was new, but had a tendency to degrade and loosen up over time. My Grandfather used to tell me stories of taking dates to the local river for the purposes of "soaking their wheels" wink wink nudge nudge! In other words, pull the car into the water and have several hours too kill while the spokes soaked long enough to swell and tighten up - and plenty of other things...

 

Not sure what this will add to the thread but this guy seems real proud of his gow or his white bucks. I don't know which.
Found the picture in a second hand store a while back.

 

My understanding from reading the period literature (and at least one court case) is that a wire wheel stands up to lateral force a lot better than a wood spoke. It springs instead of breaking. Disc wheels, of course, had the disadvantage of adding to the un-sprung weight.

Into the ‘30s, I think wire wheels from production cars were added more to update the look and for lowering than because of any hard cornering that was anticipated (ala the Downey Bros).

-Dave

 

Strength and weight are certainly most of it, but looks are a big portion of it too....A good set of Buffalo, Dayton, Houk or Hayes wires were the hot setup in those days.