The cl***ic unit is supposed to be compatible with most makes of electronic speedos. It ain't cheap at about $250 but horrible problems that faced me in trying to hook up a conventional cable to a Lay**** overdrive and not have to butcher the crossmember made the decision easy. Two things to keep in mind are, first my unit is velcro-ed to the underside of my cowl and I have a gl*** body by Wescott and it receives the signals very well second is that the instructions have the power going to a battery buss connection. I found out that it would drain my battery if I didn't drive the car in more than a week. I moved the feed to the ignition buss and the problem went away but if i haven't driven the car for some time the unit may take up to a minute to find the signal and power the speedo. I hope that helps, of not pm me and I'll do what I can..
I bought a pair from Speedhut - 2-1/16" size; one for the Tourer, and one for the Fordor after a friend ran one in his Model A no problems. They've never worked for me - showing random fixed speeds or not moving at all. Speedhut insist it's issues with interference from the coil and have suggested I wrap it in lead tape... Strange that a Garmin works stuck on the screen above it.
I just opted for a portable Garmin. So far I love it! Be sure the model you get has LMT on serial number for the life time maps!
If your GPS is loosing signal too often, then you should consider moving your antenna to a more open location if possible. Right now I use the HUD app on my phone for my '59 Ford as I get tired of doing the math in my head all the time. (it hurts! It hurts!) No, speedometers are not just "5MPH" off, its always a percentage rather than a specific MPH. At some point I'll probably move to a Dakota or similar setup. I wondered if I could use the mechanisim of a electronic speedo behind the original face? I love the look of original, but the accuracy of electronic.
The Jalopy Journal
