I have the stock stanchions, too. These are just too low - but l like the angle. I may chop the stock ones just 2" and lean them back.
Oh, the column drop - blanked out for a minute. I am going to make an insert with a rubber insulator. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The windshield I'm currently running is chopped 2 1/2 inches. Without the top, no wind in the eyes, but I have to run my cap ghetto style to keep it from blowing off.
I can't believe I missed this. Thanks for the pm. I was wondering about you the other day. Glad to see you are still making progress.
Its been two years now since I bought the body and frame from you. Progress is slow, but life keeps getting in the way. I plan on having it into paint in March and on the road shortly after. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Gathering dust - I need some free time. The new year has been busy with my work and haven't been home on a weekend so far. Looks like it will be March before I get into the garage again. Looking for a good paint guy in the Austin area - any recommendations? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Nice job--love full fendered rpu's--Dean's red one from long ago was the best ever. Keep up the good work.
In the body shop - Ready for final mockup before teardown. I am having a model A restorer down in SA do the body work/panel fitting. I wanted to do myself, but work, life, and a home move from G'Town to San Antonio (in progress) put that off for this build. Final color will be 1940 Ford maroon with black fenders. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The only issue with the fit of the reproduction body panels is the passenger side apron. It is about 2" too short. Kind of an odd thing - but a small repair overall. Hoping to be in color next week - Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The fenders, aprons, boards, etc are all painted gloss black and fitted. Doing the paint prep on the remaining body parts this week. I will take some photos when I am back down in SA later this week. My next decision is wheels/tires. I have a set of black '35 wires and a set of steel wheels off my '40 pickup. I think with the extra horsepower I should get a little more rubber on the back and the '35 wires are just not right for the rest of the truck. I am working on an early '60s look - digging around for ideas on what would look/fit best on the back of the truck. I may have wheel kid make me us some rear wheels and put on a wider pie-crust in the back, and then drop the front with lower rubber on the original '40 wheels.
A few cell phone photos from today. We are using original hardware and****embly methods for the body fitting: Heavy canvas webbing, wooden blocks, rubber pads and shims. So far no filler at all. Looks like the only body part with dents is the drivers side door. It will require some tweaking to get the panel straight. Felt pads keep the radiator shell from rubbing on the apron. Rear fenders: Clean underneath: Cab is being color sanded between coats: Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Had to notch the fender brace to clear the tube shock. Added a cross brace to keep the brace from flexing. I like the clean look underneath - but worried about gravel denting the metal. I have more experience with Mustangs and they always have star shaped dents if you don't coat the inner fenders. Thoughts on a coating underneath ? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
AGSHELBY: Did you tack weld the lower front shock mounts to the wishbone bottoms by any chance? Some customers of mine used those (even the keyed ones) in the '70s, after a few miles the shock angle forced them to turn outward...we ended up having to tack them.
Put some type of coating on underside of fenders. I did not do so (29 AA) and have a number of the "star" dents. The fenders are showing rust around those spots and also on underneath of fender. Earl
No, they are not tacked at this point. I do see how they could rotate - I will look into that - thanks.
I have been running the keyed shock mounts for over 15 years. Never had a problem with the shocks turning. Before I switched to the keyed mounts, the shocks turned every time I drove the car.
I need to look into the keyed mounts. These are from so-cal - and I think they will turn - unless I tack them.
The Jalopy Journal
