New here but not new to customs or complete car fab,been around them all my life. I lean more to the odd balls . I tried posting this in other areas but no answers so I will try it with this group "Well the "Rebuilt Flathead " is junk good oil pressure 10# idle 40# at1800 rpm Comp 110# on all but #1-2 pulled the head and found the ring had busted and the block will need to be sleeved on 2 holes shame to others had no rigid and miked for st bore (3.189- 3.190) so my choices are (what I have rebuilt and setting in the shop): #1- 500 Cadillac with turbo 400 #2- 390 Ford FE with C6 #3- 350 Chevy with 700r4 The Cadillac looks to be the easiest it has a center sump about the same as the Flathead. The 390 has a frount sump The 350 has a rear sump could modify the oil pan to fit who has swapped any of these in and how much trouble did you have? or any other motor suggestions that are easier'" Pulled the frount sheet metal today and got the motor out.I will be trying the 500 Cadillac first This is my preferred choice,but first some lunch. I will post some picture and list of problems as I go along. If any one has tried any of the listed combos let me know I am looking for the easiest one
The Caddy also has a front mount distributor which will help,what model Ford are you doing the swap in ? you didn't post the info.
Welcome to this great group of Ford lovers ! OK I am not to sure what you are wanting to install the engine into so I looked on your profile to see if you had that listed there . In that group of cars I saw a 1953 Mainline so I am guessing that is what you are talking about . Yes the Caddy will fit and be different but they are so damn heavy ! Personally I would go with the Fe engine since there has been many of those engine swaps done and should be easier to find parts for the swap over the caddy engine . But in the end it's your decision ! Jim
1953 ford custom line 2 dr went with the caddy motor fits nice looks like frount and rear mount will be easy to fab now if I can just figure out how to post the pitures here
hay retro jim did you know the 500 Cadillac is only 50# heaver the the small block Chevy I know hard to believe but true. any one near Fort Worth your welcome to drop by my zip 76114
welcome from illinois. i vote caddy power even tho i like seeing fords in fords. can the 700r be made to work with the caddy motor?
Here is something for the files: http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html The Ford FE is 25 lbs heavier than the Caddy 500,however the Ford FE can lose a lot of weight by swapping to an aluminum intake,those cast iron ones on an FE are a real hernia maker.
Cadillac were mo light weight either probably lost 25# of weight with the edelbrock intake 700r4 and 200r4 4L60, 4L80 can go behind the caddy any thing with the BOPC bell housing will fit (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac) I have seen these with 4-5 speed standers also
Here's a picture of the motor setting in the rails looks like I will make the lower part of the mount out of 2.5x2.5 x1/4 sq tubing about 3"long upper came from Roy Pope.
WOWZIE! A 500 cube torque monster in a light Ford coupe. This is the old fashioned discription of HOT ROD!
Best donor transmission would be a 200R4 or 700R4 from 1988-92 those had all the factory reliability upgrades and were still non-computer.The Caddys make tons of torque so I would lean towards the 700R4 be sure and replace the sun shell with what is known as "The Beast" the Trans-Go kit is the best upgrade to make it live.Try to post some close ups of the mounting as you go,any issue with the oil filter?
will get turbo 400 with switch pitch converter (basic a lock up mod.) and will handle the torq. and 3.50 gears in 9" Ford Here the mount set up 2.5x2.5x3" straight cut on one end and 30 deg cut on the other The mount is a universal puck type mount The rear will probably just bee 2x2 as shown I am a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. (Kept It Simple Stupid) method of building
Broke down and ordered my A-Arms and booster kit from Jamco to day another $1300 gone ,picked up a set of Granda spindles for $100 and Astor springs $55. I sure seam to be spending a lot on a car I really did not like or want to build. O well its growing on me
Not looking good for Jamco asked if the items were in stock and was told yes just had to bolt together. I should have them by now been 2 weeks I guess it true very slow at sending out there product
STAY AWAY FROM JAMCO Now calling 3 times a day to JAMCO they have not returned my calls since they got my money, very poor way to do business talk about putting a bad taste in your mouth. All I want to know is when I can except the parts they said they should ship 27 or 30 of January had in stock. I have been building cars professionally since 91 do 2-3 a year and it has been a long time since I have had this bad of service I just cant figure out what there problem is. O well guess this will be my last time dealing with them. If they don't get with me by wednesday I will call discover and file a complaint and get my money back and clip the car with something else. Jamco call me 817-252-2056
To anyone considering a purchase with JAMCO or any vendor Google their name and add the word "complaints" after the name and watch what comes up,in JAMCO's case pack a lunch,you'll be there awhile reading.
got a replay fro jamaco now the story is the part were to be drop shipped from the manufacturer how can this be if they were in stock and jamaco just got them back from the powder coaters
Some positive progress removed about 8# of grease and dirt from the frame. Filled some holes in the fire wall and shot the frame black and the fire wall Lunar Yellow set the motor back in now if I just had the parts from JAMCO
I have gotten tied up for the past 4 moths first hand surgery the a couple projects for customers will start the last one next weekend( rebuild 396 & clean detail eng comp) and by about the 23 of June will be back on the 53 like to have it done for good guys this fall in Texas
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