I did a sbc years ago - took forever but it turned out really nice. I used cheap paint though and it didn't last too long . Steve
I could see doing it if its in a car with no hood,if its crammed in a early fat fendered car and cant be seen much (37-38 Ford for example) I would think it would be a waste of time but if you got the time do it.
Dang, I polish metal for a living and wouldn't do that to my engine/trans. Maybe if it showed, but not in my 48 Chevy. Of course, with the plethora of polishing tools all over the place, who knows what may happen once I actually start working on the thing. I like the polished flattie the most. It lends itself well to it.
Wow....That's pure *** right there.... I thought that too as my mill is residing in a 49 Chevy AD.....That said....I know it's there and what you can see is awesome! Though mine was a product of OCD....I was originally just gonna do what you can see then I got started and just couldnt stop till it was done.
What did you guys use to grind the engines smooth. What is the smallest compressor I can use. What kind of grinders and pads
The rought, course finish on the engine block casting, helps in the cooling process. The more area you have displacing the heat, the better. This is another "form over function" question.
But the smoother the surface, the less places for cracks to form I know it really isnt an issue, but a properly running motor shouldnt have a heat problem either
Started friday night, got one of the power pacs almost done, the 4" flappers do a pretty good job, then i smoothed the high spots with a Nicholson Mill cut file, still got a lot of small areas to get with my dremel, Infortunatly at home air tools are out of the question after 8pm and also until i get 220v out there What do you guys use to fill deep pores???, seems to me epoxy or duragl*** would be my first choices
Those are beautiful, somebody should do a calendar. Anything I've ever taken that kind of time to smooth has quickly become a grenade, so I will admire these from afar.
5window I agree with you. To each his own. Every smoothy I have seen was painted pastel. I see enough of that inside my house.
i did a flathead and it was an ***load of work....but i had time and no money,so i figured at least i was still able to work on my car,even though i was broke.
my high school students did this one, though they have maybe 4 instead of 40 hours in it (lots of rough left if you look) We only got the block done and then the paint mysteriously disappeared (they trying to tell me something? ) We used the Eastwood Oldsmobile engine ceramic gold... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=423137
Make sure your block is good first. I did it once to a junk block. Ha ha o well but it did look good.
_________________________________________________________________ Me and a friend of mine went to a car show in the late 70's or early 80 here locally. We were admiring the attention to detail on this T-bucket. The motor, ****** and rear end looked like porcelain. I figured it was tons of paint and sanding. We were discussing the car, I said whoever went through this was a lunatic....I got a tap on my shoulder and a voice asked if I liked the car. I started replying with yes and turned around to see a good friend from HS. It was his car....we discussed various things, I asked him how and why did he do what he did. His answer was he wanted everything just right. I asked how he got the motor, ****** and rear so smooth....he said he used tons of "Tootsie Rolls" which are little rolls of sandpaper mounted on a shaft to stick in a drill. He said he'd bring a box home from work and go into the garage and sand/grind with the "Tootsie Rolls" for months and months. I forgot how long it was, but I do remember he said he'd never do that again. Like I said, it looked like porcelain. To do the removal of the double humps off the heads, that would have to go to a machine shop to be milled off. As a matter of fact I recently read in a magazine of a guy building a motor and he wanted to make it look as low performance as possible. In the article there is a shop that specializes in doing just that.......Unfortunately I can't remember which book it was.
I ground the numbers off my heads so the Olds efficienados wouldn't know it's from 1976... Hoping they'll think it's a '69 350 Olds.
Almost have one head finished for my 283 i started friday, gunna finish d/a'ing it out tonight with air at work
i did a 289 back in 82 that way it looked like red plastic and its easier to clean too cause dirt n grime wipes off and doesnt stick to the rough ridges of the castings
I like it thats what i want my engine to look like. Can you grind an engine smooth with out taking it completely apart? maybe just removing the intake
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